Sheilds how do you make yours?

For those of us who wish to talk about the many styles and facets of recreating Medieval armed combat.
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Winterfell
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Sheilds how do you make yours?

Post by Winterfell »

Hey folks this question is for everyone.
What would you consider to be the best way to edge a shield and still make it look authentic? I am not talking about within period, and I sure am not talking about shield size, although I saw a lovely photo of a guy with a dinner table strapped to his arm. Image)
Anyways my reasoning is this. My current shield is wood circular with a leather edge and some padding underneath. It is nailed into place. I have seen heater hose roped into the edge, and I have seen shield construction tips involving metal banding.
Any thoughts?


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SyrRhys
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Post by SyrRhys »

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Winterfell:
<B>Hey folks this question is for everyone.
What would you consider to be the best way to edge a shield and still make it look authentic? I am not talking about within period, and I sure am not talking about shield size, although I saw a lovely photo of a guy with a dinner table strapped to his arm. Image)
Anyways my reasoning is this. My current shield is wood circular with a leather edge and some padding underneath. It is nailed into place. I have seen heater hose roped into the edge, and I have seen shield construction tips involving metal banding.
Any thoughts? </B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

Here's the method Mac taught me:

Take a wooden shield; Mac says common woods were basswod or poplar, but as often as shields get destroyed I recommend plywood.

Bevel the edges to help prevent breakage.

Tack leather onto the edges.

Use a spatula to cover the back of the shield with "Tight Bond II" glue; it's waterproof.

Cover the back of the shield with canvas straight out to the edge.

Now do the same to the front of the shield (glue and canvas), except make the canvas bigger so that it wraps over the edge of the shield and wraps around the back.

Put more glue on the front and cover with light leather; this should wrap part way around the back, too.

Make a pad of canvas and batting and nail this on the back where your arm will go.

Make a guige and enarmes and nail them in place.

Gesso the front and then paint it with your arms.

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David deKunstenaar
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Post by David deKunstenaar »

Hugh "Use a spatula to cover the back of the shield with "Tight Bond II" glue; it's waterproof."

Not rabbit sking glue?

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SyrRhys
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Post by SyrRhys »

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by David deKunstenaar:
<B>Hugh "Use a spatula to cover the back of the shield with "Tight Bond II" glue; it's waterproof."

Not rabbit sking glue?

Arti</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

No, why?

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JJ Shred
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Post by JJ Shred »

I use Barge cement, a cobbler glue. I don't like to nail or tack, either. It seems they tend to work out when pounded on. I prefer leather on the front, and used veg. tanned cowhide, but it depends on what you are going to use it for. For Regia Anglorium (Viking/Saxon 950 - 1066), I drill a series of holes around the edge and stitch everything together. You take about a 3" wide strip of rawhide, cut it a bit to small, wet it, sew it into a loop, then stretch it over the edges like a rubber band wet. Then when it dries, it shrinks to fit tightly. You may have to smooth it a few times. Then drill your holes and saddle stitch with artificial sinew.
I used 1/4" basswood and did two layers, although there is no documentation that I know of for layered plywood. More appropriate would be a single layer of 1/4" planks held together by the grip, which runs from edge to edge. Bullhide instead of cow makes for about 1/2" total thickness.

Image

[img]http://monsieurgeoffrey.faithweb.com/images/combat_shield.jpg[/img]

My Norman kite I use for riding and not fighting, and it is curved 1/2" plywood covered with a thin chrome-tanned leather on the front. I have it apart now and am going to cover the back with something (whatever leather I have extra, actually) and am going to make a pad for the arm similar to what SyrRhys described, although with steel rivets instead of nails holding it on, along with all the straps.

Image

My Frankish shield was labourously curved basswood covered with a garment pigskin on back and bull hide on the front, and a steel rim and spokes were riveted on.

Image

My heater has a felt-like cloth on back, leather on front and a steel rim riveted on.

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SyrRhys
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Post by SyrRhys »

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Bascot:
<B>I use Barge cement, a cobbler glue. I don't like to nail or tack, either. It seems they tend to work out when pounded on. I prefer leather on the front, and used veg. tanned cowhide, but it depends on what you are going to use it for.
I used 1/4" basswood and did two layers, although there is no documentation that I know of for layered plywood.

</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

That's cool; have you ever done any full-contact fighting with the basswood shields? If so, how did they hold up? Even though my more authentic shield is still plywood, past efforts have shown me that under full-power SCA fighting even plywood only lasts a few months (even when made a *lot* heavier than a real shield). I'd love to try one out of basswood, but I'd hate to go to all that trouble only to have it get trashed after three fights.

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JJ Shred
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Post by JJ Shred »

Steel rimmed shields:

Frankish:

Image

Heater:

Image



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JJ Shred
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Post by JJ Shred »

Not yet, as I don't have anyone to fight with around here. I hope there are enough Regia folks at Pennsic to merit bringing over some of the British, since we have no way to authorize until we do. Regia requires you to start with a 7 - 8' spear and shield and saex and shield before moving up to sword. If they can't get special permission from the SCA to hold authorizations, we'll probably go off-site to practice. Pretty as it is, that's what the Viking shield was made for, and if it dies, it dies.
My first SCA shield was done similarly, and the top edge got pounded to mush after about 6 months. The second one I put angled steel at those points, (along with aquarium tubing split & filled with dow corning aquarium caulking) but it wound up being too heavy to move quickly.

Now I did make two curved heaters out of 1/2" plywood, covered with canvas and edged on top with heavy veg. tanned leather, tacked on, and other than the tacks coming out, they are still going strong after 2 seasons of getting bashed with Starfires regularly at Renn. Faires. (Not much call for Vikings at Renn. Faires!)

[This message has been edited by Bascot (edited 03-12-2002).]
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David deKunstenaar
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Post by David deKunstenaar »

1: Rabbit skin glue is an historically accurate glue. Very strong and water tight.
2: Just teasing a little, you are very historical minded, and I was a little surprised to see you (and Bascot now) discussing purely modern glues. I don't know why, it just seemed out of to strike me funny.

Kind of like listening to a Southern Baptist preacher talking about beer taste.

I appologise if I have offended either of you.

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Winterfell
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Post by Winterfell »

Ok couple of things:
One. Does banding the edge with metal do more damage to an rattan sword?
Two. While I really like Rhys' method (will do that with my next one. Thanks Rhys!)
How does one metal band a shield. Lets say I go to Home Depot, what am I looking for?
Thanks guys this has been a big help.
I am not a big fan of the hose around my shield thing.

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JJ Shred
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Post by JJ Shred »

Just when I go and stick my neck out with the assertion that there is no evidence of two layer (plywood) shields, this comes in on the Regia e-group:

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">thought you might be interested in this evidence that shields were made of two layers of wood with the grain at right-angles. this comes from the Hastings list.

Beo gesund

Edwin

Subj: [Hastings] Trondheim shield news

Hello again good people!

As we say here in Sweden 'När man talar om trollen så står de i farstun'
(Speak of the devil...). Today, after a whole year I finally succeeded in
getting in touch with the archaeologist that unearthed the bloody thing!

He told me a lot, here is an abstract:

The shield was found at Trondheim bygrund in 1975 in a context dated to the
11th and 12th centuries. It was found in what was then a backyard in a
refusal heap with other discarded objects, it had obviously been thrown away
as worn-out and useless.
It is made up by two layers of boards, the upper layer skewed 90º against
the lower.
The boards in each layer are approximately 5 – 6 mm thick. One must
keep in mind though that the shield parts were waterlogged by the time of
the recovery, it could thereby be estimated that the shield probably had a
total thickness of close to/less than 10mm.

A series of holes along what is left of the rim implicates that it initially
was covered and/or had the rim reinforced, possibly by rawhide that
deteriorate quite fast in the ground.

The height is roughly 1 m, and at the widest point it measures approximately
0.5 m.

The wood in the shield was never more closely examined; it is therefore not
possible to say which kind of wood that was used.

That's all for now, now I just will have to apply to the museum of
antiquities in Trondheim, raise some funds and travel up there.

I'll keep you posted

/Ny Björn</font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I should know better by now....
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Post by theodrik »

In regards to the period plywood question, I have lost rack of the gent who had some real nice documentation of period plywoods. He was Early English personna (7-9th c)and I can't remember either his SCA or mundane name. But what I do remember is he could document the norse use of oak, linden (basswood) and lime, as in the fruit tree. One oak was set 90 degrees and 3 layers, the whole being iron bound and about 1" thick. The other three were layered at 60 degrees, had thinner plys and in total vaired in thickness from like .75" to 1.125", also iron boune, one with remants of a leather (rawhide?) face. Thats all I can remember, sorry it isin't more.

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JJ Shred
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Post by JJ Shred »

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">linden (basswood) and lime, as in the fruit tree.</font>


Actually, linden and lime are names for the same British tree, and basswood is the closest N. American species-equivalent, with poplar the second closest, although England has a poplar as well.
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Post by Murdock »

Hard wood ply,

Using water proof wood glue i edge it with strips of canvas. Let dry

Paint on device with house paint. Then use dark mahogany stain on the back.
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