I think that Aveloc makes some of the best looking weapons that I have ever seen. Sir Mrks posts pictures of them fairly often here and I have seen them in real life and they look great while being very competitive.
My question is how does he make them? What is the best way of making these within SCA rules and still looking great while avoiding the soft dull thud of foam that people don't take? I guess that I am kinda pointing this question at Mrks but if there is anybody else out there that considers themselves gifted at pole construction feel free to pipe up.
Also, for you AnTirians, a few years ago there was a Crown final fought in Eastern Washington with 5 matched weapons. If I remember correctly, I think that Davin and Groa were sitting the throne and Aveloc and William were fighting the finals. Were those weapons made by Aveloc or were they part of Davin's collection.
Thanks guys,
Hrogn
Aveloc type of Weapons
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Gaston de Vieuxchamps
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The weapons Aveloc makes now are not SCA legal. Since he was banned from participating in the SCA, there's not much point in him paying too much attention to SCA rules.
However, he used to make great SCA legal weapons. He employed a number of techniques. Some of the things that contributed the most to the quality of these weapons as I see it:
-Starting out with stiff, durable foam and cutting it into the shape of the axe, mace, or whatever you are building and then letting it stay that shape. Most of us tend to use squishy foam and then compress it a lot with tape which deforms it and generally turns it into a "blob". Plus, the final produst is just as stiff as his and usually heavier.
-Liberal use of tool dip. Having a tool dip surface obviously looks a lot cooler than tape. If you lay it on a bit thick, it also lasts a lot longer.
-Leather. The ones that aren't tool dipped are covered in leather which is cut out and painstakingly sewn together over the foam. This makes for very cool and durable weapons, though it is also very labor intensive (!!)
-Glue. Liberal use of strong glue to bond the foam to the rattan is the first step. This prevents excess tape and prevents sliding and deforming after construction. Glue is also used with the leather covered weapons. It is slathered on before the leather is sewn in place and the sewing happens as the glue dries. The result is that the leather is part of the weapon and does not buckle or shift.
-Dressed up rattan. Using some wood stain on exposed rattan really adds to the aesthetics. He is also fond of wrapping handles in suede (glued down) and using upholstery nails to dress it up (glue is also applied to the nails before hammering them in). I have always been dubious of the nails. they look cool but I'm not 100% convinced of the safety. I've never seen one come loose, but i think it could happen and might be a problem.
-Attention to detail. Each weapon is treated like a work of art and no shortcuts are allowed to ruin the final product.
Note:
He has made these weapons in all ranges from "oww" to "kiddy boffer" and everything in between. With clackers and without. Very soft and not so soft. The nice thing is that you really can't tell how "nice" or "mean" any of his weapons are just by looking at them. This makes for great effect in combat.
G
PS-My personal favorite has to be his "five flanged mace".
However, he used to make great SCA legal weapons. He employed a number of techniques. Some of the things that contributed the most to the quality of these weapons as I see it:
-Starting out with stiff, durable foam and cutting it into the shape of the axe, mace, or whatever you are building and then letting it stay that shape. Most of us tend to use squishy foam and then compress it a lot with tape which deforms it and generally turns it into a "blob". Plus, the final produst is just as stiff as his and usually heavier.
-Liberal use of tool dip. Having a tool dip surface obviously looks a lot cooler than tape. If you lay it on a bit thick, it also lasts a lot longer.
-Leather. The ones that aren't tool dipped are covered in leather which is cut out and painstakingly sewn together over the foam. This makes for very cool and durable weapons, though it is also very labor intensive (!!)
-Glue. Liberal use of strong glue to bond the foam to the rattan is the first step. This prevents excess tape and prevents sliding and deforming after construction. Glue is also used with the leather covered weapons. It is slathered on before the leather is sewn in place and the sewing happens as the glue dries. The result is that the leather is part of the weapon and does not buckle or shift.
-Dressed up rattan. Using some wood stain on exposed rattan really adds to the aesthetics. He is also fond of wrapping handles in suede (glued down) and using upholstery nails to dress it up (glue is also applied to the nails before hammering them in). I have always been dubious of the nails. they look cool but I'm not 100% convinced of the safety. I've never seen one come loose, but i think it could happen and might be a problem.
-Attention to detail. Each weapon is treated like a work of art and no shortcuts are allowed to ruin the final product.
Note:
He has made these weapons in all ranges from "oww" to "kiddy boffer" and everything in between. With clackers and without. Very soft and not so soft. The nice thing is that you really can't tell how "nice" or "mean" any of his weapons are just by looking at them. This makes for great effect in combat.
G
PS-My personal favorite has to be his "five flanged mace".
"Non Omne Quod Licet Honestum Est."
Hrogn, I've handled some of these and they are very cool. He does stop in here occasionally...perhaps we can hear from the man himself.
Tony Canevaro
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Gaston said so it well I cant add much.
shoogoo is very good on foam and rattan. it holds and flexes where other glues do not. for foam on foam contact cement is the best.
the strapping tape must be 3M scotch premium. I bought 36 rolls on ebay for $48 lots of strapping tape deals there.
love and care gets you a very cool long lasting weapon.
shoogoo is very good on foam and rattan. it holds and flexes where other glues do not. for foam on foam contact cement is the best.
the strapping tape must be 3M scotch premium. I bought 36 rolls on ebay for $48 lots of strapping tape deals there.
love and care gets you a very cool long lasting weapon.
sirmrks
mostly retired but still producing as a hobby.
am tired of making Titanium and 301 SS finger gauntlets
but still offer DIY shaped 301SS fingertip kits for $60 shipped.
usually can ship next day.
mostly retired but still producing as a hobby.
am tired of making Titanium and 301 SS finger gauntlets
but still offer DIY shaped 301SS fingertip kits for $60 shipped.
usually can ship next day.
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Jean Paul de Sens
- Archive Member
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mrks, I found a lot of this kind of tape on Ebay:
STRAPPING TAPE 3M #8934
which I did a quick google search on and found this page...
http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_3114.asp
My question is, did you get/use the 8934 model (which looks similar to what we use from Wally-world) or do you use the much tougher 893,897, or 898 models?
Jean Paul
STRAPPING TAPE 3M #8934
which I did a quick google search on and found this page...
http://www.uline.com/Browse_Listing_3114.asp
My question is, did you get/use the 8934 model (which looks similar to what we use from Wally-world) or do you use the much tougher 893,897, or 898 models?
Jean Paul
hi there
go for the 3M 898 SUPER STRENGTH - 380 LB. TENSILE STRENGTH
you wont be sorry. it is way superior to any other strapping aveloc and I have tried.
it is on ebay sometimes.
the other stuff is not as good. well good for taping swords...
go for the 3M 898 SUPER STRENGTH - 380 LB. TENSILE STRENGTH
you wont be sorry. it is way superior to any other strapping aveloc and I have tried.
it is on ebay sometimes.
the other stuff is not as good. well good for taping swords...
sirmrks
mostly retired but still producing as a hobby.
am tired of making Titanium and 301 SS finger gauntlets
but still offer DIY shaped 301SS fingertip kits for $60 shipped.
usually can ship next day.
mostly retired but still producing as a hobby.
am tired of making Titanium and 301 SS finger gauntlets
but still offer DIY shaped 301SS fingertip kits for $60 shipped.
usually can ship next day.