The Armour Archive

Hi folks,

I'm currently constructing an aluminum shield out of necessity for durability and low weight. I've read a lot of old threads on here about edging these things, it seems the accepted method is using auto door edge trim, which I plan to acquire shortly.

My question is really what to do next. The group I fought with (currently in between groups since I'm home from university) used pretty much exclusively wood shields so I don't know much in the way of outfitting aluminum stuff. Should I be covering the surface of the shield with canvas or something, or can I should I just paint the bare steel? How much more edging should I be adding over the auto door edging trim? I'm looking for a low profile, non-modern look, so maybe leather would be the way to go? I'm really trying to avoid the water hose approach... I'm just concerned because that might still make the edge too thin, and I don't want my shield eating people's swords. Finally, is there anything else I should be considering at this point?

My experience with the SCA is limited to a small group of people so I'm pretty much lost when it comes to constructing alternate items, and therefore your help is very much appreciated!

-Mike

Things to consider:

Make sure you have the right metal. It should be .090 or thicker and should be T6.

Second, you can easily curve alluminum. So go for it, that one reason to use it over wood since curving wood is more complex.

You CAN cover the surface with canvas but you don't have to. You can paint the bare metal. Use a spray primer made for metal and it helps if you use a wire wheel or something to rough up the surface a bit. Sir Markus has suggested applying contact cement as an undercoat. I haven't tried it but it should work.

The auto trim is nice. Some people use it by itself, others cover it. I haven't found the definitive solution. I have a method I've been using (sewing seatbelt webbing on) and I like the efect but it's VERY laborious.


Gaston

Thanks for the help!

I've got 0.1 inch T-6, just cut the blank this evening. I'll be curving it in a day or so.

I guess just plain painting without canvas it would be cheaper for me. Definately would like to cover the trim to some extent though. I'm thinking even with trim the edge will only be ... 0.2-0.3 inches thick?

A thin layer of contact cement, dried until tacky, then sprayed with your paint, works well as a primer on aluminum and titanium shields.

Round all of the corners, it doesn't detract from your defense (1" radius, or so), and your edging will last far longer. Make sure the edges are smooth.

As for a good looking edge over the door edging, I use a 2.5"-3" wide strip of 8 oz leather sewn with a leather thong / cording. Go through the shield, don't wrap around the edge, you cord will fray very fast. I don't know how many times I've seen this. My shield was edged this way about 12 years ago, it's still around.

Gaston de Vieuxchamps wrote:Things to consider:

Make sure you have the right metal. It should be .090 or thicker and should be T6.

Gaston

I have used 0.065 inch T3 or T6 aluminum (most recently Alloy 7075-T6) for the last 15 years and have been very happy with it. I fight with a 2 x 3 square and if after a year or two, the top begins to develop stress cracks, I just flip the shield upside down, rehang and repaint it, and get another year or two out of it.

Regards,
Richard
Ansteorra

Thanks a lot for all the comments guys, very helpful!

This is what I'll be doing, if I've understood Dalewyn's post correctly:
[img]http://www.aoerat.com/files/images/sca/shield_edging.GIF[/img]

I'll be sure to post photos of the final product.

Gaston de Vieuxchamps wrote:The auto trim is nice. Some people use it by itself, others cover it. I haven't found the definitive solution. I have a method I've been using (sewing seatbelt webbing on) and I like the efect but it's VERY laborious.


Gaston

Where can you get the auto trim? On line sources??

Tim

Neoteric Knight wrote:Thanks a lot for all the comments guys, very helpful!

This is what I'll be doing, if I've understood Dalewyn's post correctly:
[img]http://www.aoerat.com/files/images/sca/shield_edging.GIF[/img]

I'll be sure to post photos of the final product.

That's basically what I do with the seatbelt webbing an heavy nylon thread.

I think Richard had good results with .065 because he uses an un-curved rectangle. It flexes a lot without crumpling. We've used .065 for some of the Asgard Varangian shields too and it's a similat concept. But the smaller and stiffer your shield is the more important it becomes to go at least .090.

I haven't bought the auto trim online, though I suspect you could. It's often called "crimp molding". I've bought it at custom car shops and at a place that does conversion vans. I've paid as much as $1/foot, sometimes less. Some versions have a core of continuous steel wire while others have steel or alluminum staples. The wire is the best. A alluminum staple type doesn't last that long.

There is a similar product sold in boating stores but it seems to be a lot wimpier usually. If you do a good job with the leather cover then the wimpier boat stuff should work well enough.

Gaston

You can buy the "pinch on windlace" from McMaster-Carr

http://www.mcmaster.com/ctlg/DisplCtlgPage.asp?ReqTyp=CATALOG&CtlgPgNbr=3483&CtlgEdition=&sesnextrep=434741047818958&ScreenWidth=1152&McMMainWidth=892

Steve

That would work!



Gaston

On the topic of painting, I would highly suggest covering the shield with canvas. I use 3M spray adhesive, and just stick the canvas right to the shield. Fold the canvas over the edges and apply the edging over the top of the canvas.

I personally think the canvas holds the paint much better, and the colors are more vibrant...it's almost as if the canvas was made for painting on . I use regular water based acrylic paint that you get at any hobby store, and once it's dry, it's extremely water-resistant...quick, easy, and looks great. Plus, the paint doesn't scratch like painted metal will, although the canvas over time may develop small rips. Use a little adhesive, restick the rip, and touch-up paint if necessary. Even with that, I think maintenance is much easier.

An added bonus, if you ever want to change your shield, just peel the canvas off and stick it on your new one!

JvG

I'd KILL for an edging material that lasted longer.

Good find Steve, I just ordered a sample of each of the steel cored trim to see what works best.



Thanks,

Hey folks, a little update. I ordered that trim of McMasters, and it came in today. Here are some photos.

The trim went on pretty tightly, and seems durable. It only cost about 40 cents a foot which is a nice bonus.

[img]http://www.aoerat.com/files/images/sca/blank.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.aoerat.com/files/images/sca/trim.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.aoerat.com/files/images/sca/trim_on.jpg[/img]

Thanks to everyone who replied! I finished the shield yesterday and took it to practice an hour later, and it worked great! I got a little more vibration than a thick wood shield, but it is much lighter and handles very nicely.

Here's a few photos, unfortunately taken after practice so it isn't pristine anymore.

[img]http://www.aoerat.com/files/images/sca/corner.jpg[/img]
[img]http://www.aoerat.com/files/images/sca/shield.jpg[/img]

Very nice!

I wonder how well the trim holds up by itelf? I mean no leather covering etc?

Tim

Tried it last night, it goes on fairly tight, but as it’s struck the shape distorts just enough to lose grip. I’m more interested in how long the channel stands up. I’m going to try the smaller size on my next shield project and see in an initially tighter fit works.

Asbjorn Johansen wrote:Tried it last night, it goes on fairly tight, but as it’s struck the shape distorts just enough to lose grip. I’m more interested in how long the channel stands up. I’m going to try the smaller size on my next shield project and see in an initially tighter fit works.

Keep us posted. I am curious about its ability to hold up on its own.

Tim