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Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:11 am
by Guran
xyz

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:21 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
Zweihammer wrote:Since this thread has largely been about unauthorized copies being made and sold, and legality or the ethics of the person making the copy. What about the flip side, customers actively seeking someone willing to make a knock off.

I can think of a few times people have brought the question to this board, posting a picture from someone's website of a modern reproduction and asking for a pattern, preferably free, or reference to someone who will make one cheaper than who is on the watermark.

I have been emailed by individuals (usually young people, but I don't want to make this a generational observation) with this same scenario on several occasions.

"Can you make "X" like this? (insert pic of sallet, topfhelm, kettle, etc. from well know site)", they ask.

"This is a version I have made (insert pic of my work here), is this what you are looking for?", I respond.

"No, just like the picture. I love (insert name of pilfered jpg. source here)'s version so much, it is everything I ever wanted, it is all I dream of, I will do anything to have one. All my friends have one!", is the reply.

"Well, you already know where to get it, why don't you get it from (insert name of pilfered jpg. source here), if you don't want what I offer?", I say.

"They want way too much. I will have to give up latte's and cigarettes for 3 months! (I am paraphrasing that last bit, but it is what I hear). It is my right to shop around for the best deal!" they cry.

"It is your right to see what is being offered, but you are looking for a counterfeiter. Why did you contact me if you are not interested in what I have to offer? I can't help you.", I angrily type.

"You don't have to be such a d*ck about it!" they counter.

I imagine they continue their quest until they find a receptive audience. I would think many knock offs begin this way. Ethics of the manufacturer aside, someone brought item to them to be copied.


A fine example of what should not normally happen I agree. How about these two situations?
(These actually happened)
Example #1:
Customer Joe Bob is in the market for his first helm. Customer Joe Bob searches the internet (because let’s face it, in reality there are no physical stores that sell helms in Joe Bob’s major metropolitan city) for a helm and finds one that strikes his fancy.
Joe Bob contact said manufacturer to order said helm. Said manufacturer says “Hey cool Joe Bob! I’d be happy to make this for you. No problem. It should take XXX weeks and cost $XXX.â€

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:25 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
Tasha K wrote:
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:I bridle when I try to patronize the best of the best only to be told I can’t and then on top of that that I am impatient and somehow rude for going elsewhere to get what I want.


I think lack of availability of the product you want is a good reason to go to someone who can provide it. This is common sense. If all things are equal except for price, however, I'm pretty sure that's a direct reflection of the stark differences in the costs of doing business depending on the country of origin. And that's a frustrating thing, because the natural longterm consequence is inevitably the demise of the businesses with more expensive overhead -- regardless of how great their product is, regardless of how great their customer service is. It bums me out. I think that's a reasonable feeling to have. Life ain't fair, but that doesn't mean I have to cheerfully enjoy the unfairness.

And for the record, I'm not in any "clique", real or imagined. I'm just an individual with an opinion on the topic.

Tasha, all due respect, as stated it is a clear perception thing only, not a judgment. And I’m not saying you have to be happy about the unfairness of life. Far from it. But when the customer attempts to provide custom to the merchant with the higher over head and said merchant cannot deliver, the customer is forced elsewhere, even possible to the overseas lower over head merchant. But at least the higher over head merchant had the right of first refusal.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:33 am
by Black Swan Designs
this thread has been about only support a select few merchants and that is bogus.
Ethan is right. Although I appreciate the support, I never meant to imply that people should only buy stuff from HE/BSD. That wasn't the point of my original post. The point I was trying to make was people like Windrose, Revival, Gaukler, Dru Shoemaker, Iron Dwarf, Matt Bayley, etc. could be put out of business if knockoffs become accepted.

I think what I'm seeing from the responses is one camp who support knockoffs because it allows them to participate in their hobby, regardless of the ultimate cost to the small craftsman, and the other camp who supports the small artisan/craftsman. If that's the way it is, we artisan/craftsmen need to suck it up and cope. Or 'pull the nails out and get a grip', as one contributer so pithily observed. :roll:

[b]And I simply do not understand how a merchant that wants to continue as a large “I sell to anyoneâ€

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:36 am
by David Teague
Hello All,

@ James. Yep. I just tried to keep it more polite.

@ Cilléne mac Conghalaigh. Sometimes we have to plan ahead as most places we deal with are cottage industry based and do have a queue.

As smaller businesses in a niche market they can not afford to stock every size of every garment in every color... especially with some of the extra, extra large sizes I see requested on this forum from time to time ("Do you have it in a 64 inch waist for a guy who's only 5ft 4?" )

@Cilléne mac Conghalaigh (part II). I hope I didn't come across as you can only buy from these select vendors otherwise "you and your items suck"... not my point, I have bought from a number of vendors over the last 36 years of living history and I have many sources.

I do like the people in question however.

Cheers,

David

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:37 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
brewer wrote:
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:And if the merchant that is selling the top quality items CAN NOT DELIVER those of us willing to pay the price are forced elsewhere.

Sorry folks but it's not all about cheap knock offs here. I'm willing to pay top dollar because I am not a tailor, I do not sew, I do not want to learn to sew, I already brew, and woodowrk, and paint, and that's enough for me and it's just a friggin bloody hobby! I devote the rest of my time to real life things like work and family, house and bills. So when I need or want a piece of garb for an even that is coming up in the next month or two, I'd like it before the event. You want me to plan for events that won't happen until next year and wait 8-16 weeks for an item. Sorry, not going to happen. This speaks to the level of play. That's all. Don't begruge me my level of play because you play more. I will simply find a merchant that can give me what i want, when I want it, and gladly pay the price.

Can't provide the goods? Change how you do business


Time out, Cilléne. Don't confuse your misplaced expectations with vendors being unable to deliver. Note: I don't want to be a jerk. I confess, however, that attitudes like this - though most often due to misperception rather than malice - really chap my arse. So here goes.

Looks like it's time to trot out The Triangle again.

Image

You can have two. The other must be excluded.

Expecting someone to make you something right exactly to your order and getting it in less than a few weeks is unreasonable. Ordering custom means you have to plan a little. You do realize "custom" means you ain't getting something off the peg, don't you?

Here's a parallel involving brewing, because you and I are both brewers and can speak the same language. Give me a beer, brewed to my specifications, fully conditioned and ready for drinking, right now. Or in two weeks. You and I both know that's impossible. Hell, you can't even do that if you have a menu of semi-custom options on your dialed-in recipes.*

Neither can a professional tailor. Professional tailors don't sit there with their thumbs up their asses until your order comes along - they've got a queue of people in line. You have to discuss fabrics and embellishments - which must be ordered and applied - and (in a perfect world) fittings would be accomplished.

You're not getting that level of service "on demand".

This issue of out-of-whack expectations is a major problem in this market. What people like tailors and other craftsmen do is incompatible with an on-demand world. People want to click a link and get a perfect product in a few days. Sometimes that works - people like Gwen sell nice, high-quality stuff off the peg - but most times it doesn't. Most of the time if you want something rapidly you have to deal with a lack of fit, or the color isn't right, or the hem is too long, etc. If you want something right now, you have to deal with what the seller has in stock that might remotely fit you. If you want a chest 44" blue tunic in gabardine but all I've got is a chest 48" red tunic in wool flannel, you have two choices: Buy the red tunic or get in line for my schedule to free up enough to fit in a blue one. If you want the red tunic more quickly than my schedule allows, you will make it worth my while to bump your order to the front of the queue or your order won't get bumped up.

That's how the custom clothing business works, Cilléne. If you can't deal with that fact, the problem isn't with sellers being unable to deliver, the problem is you being unable or unwilling to adjust your expectations. I hope this explanation helps enable you to adjust those expectations.

Respectfully,

Bob

* Can't do that? Change how you do business. :twisted:

Bob, you get no argument from me. The problem is that if I come to you and ask you, “Hey Bob, I want a vanilla milk stout done right, can you brew me that?â€

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:39 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
James B. wrote:
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote: But be bald faces honest, this thread has been about only support a select few merchants and that is bogus. This cliquish attitude of "you're a goob if you don't pay top dollar from so and so or make it yourself" is ridiculous.


Not what I am saying at all, you are reading too much into my words. I said going to a vender buying their item and making your own copies, in this case castings, to save money is assholish. Coming to my stall and bitching about my price is assholish. You cannot compare a historical wool clothing seller to the generic poly cotton garb seller for price it is a whole different market. To expect someone to lower their wool tunic with hand stitching to the same price as a poly t tunic with all machining is unrealistic.

I am not saying you have to buy from a list of people I am only saying don't expect the guying making high end products to sell at low end prices. People need to make a living.

There is room for vendors on all sorts.

As to the issue of wait lists, there is nothing wrong buying off the rack instead of waiting for something.

Also just FYI this thread started because in some of Westlands threads people were making accusations that he is using unfair business practices and I was defending him as innocent until proven guilty. I feel making unfounded assumptions is unfair.


James fair enough. My bad, I'll take it on the chin for being overly touchy. I agree with your above statements 100%. My apologies.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:41 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
James B. wrote:
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote: But be bald faces honest, this thread has been about only support a select few merchants and that is bogus. This cliquish attitude of "you're a goob if you don't pay top dollar from so and so or make it yourself" is ridiculous.


Not what I am saying at all, you are reading too much into my words. I said going to a vender buying their item and making your own copies, in this case castings, to save money is assholish. Coming to my stall and bitching about my price is assholish. You cannot compare a historical wool clothing seller to the generic poly cotton garb seller for price it is a whole different market. To expect someone to lower their wool tunic with hand stitching to the same price as a poly t tunic with all machining is unrealistic.

I am not saying you have to buy from a list of people I am only saying don't expect the guying making high end products to sell at low end prices. People need to make a living.

There is room for vendors on all sorts.

As to the issue of wait lists, there is nothing wrong buying off the rack instead of waiting for something.

Also just FYI this thread started because in some of Westlands threads people were making accusations that he is using unfair business practices and I was defending him as innocent until proven guilty. I feel making unfounded assumptions is unfair.


James, fair enough, my bad. I will take it on the chin for being ovely touchy to the thread and offer my apologies. I agree with the above 100%.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:44 am
by William Frisbee
OK lets put it this way...

1.) Assume we are talking about armour. Say a set of spring steel arms, a copy of S10 from the Castle of Churburg.

2.) Assume retailer A is charging $850 for the S10 arms.

3.) Assume retailer B is charging $350 for the S10 arms.

4.) Assume quality of the two arms are about the same.

5.) Assume delivery times about the same.


Which one would YOU go with?

Now with stuff like custom or high quality clothing or stuff you KNOW has been the domain of a particular merchant, its different, but when it comes to stuff like armour (S10 articulated vambraces in this example), you can damn well bet I'm going to find the best prices possible. Because I'm smart enough to do my due-diligence (due in part to this very forum), I know who to deal with and who NOT to deal with.

So I ask you if two vendors are offering products which are similar to one another close enough that you cant tell the difference and one is less money, who are you going to go with?


Thats not being cheap, thats being smart.

I still know of NO ONE that makes linen stuff like the hosen and braies I get from Gwen. Hell my first set of hosen is going on year three and is just now starting to fade from wash and wear.

I still know of NO ONE that does kettles like Adam at WMA. Hell the guy brought the first kettles I've known of into the SCA and they are fantastic. There have been a few attempts to copy, but nothing close.

But some things, its all about shopping. And that I do.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:49 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
[quote="Black Swan Designs"]this thread has been about only support a select few merchants and that is bogus.
Ethan is right. Although I appreciate the support, I never meant to imply that people should only buy stuff from HE/BSD. That wasn't the point of my original post. The point I was trying to make was people like Windrose, Revival, Gaukler, Dru Shoemaker, Iron Dwarf, Matt Bayley, etc. could be put out of business if knockoffs become accepted.

I think what I'm seeing from the responses is one camp who support knockoffs because it allows them to participate in their hobby, regardless of the ultimate cost to the small craftsman, and the other camp who supports the small artisan/craftsman. If that's the way it is, we artisan/craftsmen need to suck it up and cope. Or 'pull the nails out and get a grip', as one contributer so pithily observed. :roll:

[b]And I simply do not understand how a merchant that wants to continue as a large “I sell to anyoneâ€

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:49 am
by James B.
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:James, fair enough, my bad. I will take it on the chin for being ovely touchy to the thread and offer my apologies. I agree with the above 100%.


Not a problem; that is the bad part about the internet it is easy to misjudge intent of the written word.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:55 am
by Ottawa Swordplay
I'm sorry that this is straying from the main topic, but I do find it frustrating that in the cheap-fast-right triangle, the fact is that it isn't pick two, it's pick one. You can get it fast, or cheap, or right, but you can't get it fast and right for any amount of money most of the time. Nor can you get it cheap and right no matter how long you are willing to wait. Occasionally you can get cheap and fast. I'm not interested in that.

I would love to be able to get things fast and right, or cheap and right. Never gonna happen for a lot of items.

And I think that this is what drives people to knock off manufacturers sometimes.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 10:56 am
by James B.
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:It seems and again, please correct me if I am wrong, that folks are saying I should not go elsewhere but simply suck it up and wait, wait, wait, at the merchants pleasure rather than go elsewhere to get the one item I am in the market for.


I think what some are saying here is sometimes it is worth the wait :D

Going to another vendor and asking for a style of clothing is not quite what we were talking about earlier where people are buying a product and copying it. There is a world of difference in saying "hey can you make me a pair of hosen kinda like these from vendor "x"" and asking "hey I got these hosen from vendor "X" that fit great, can you use that as a pattern and make me the same thing only at half the price?". Florian's story is a rather good example of the worst case scenario; people can just use his original and lost cast it over and over again losing him loads of business.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:01 am
by Black Swan Designs
I interpret the general consensus as being 'have reasonable expectations when dealing with small shop craftspeople, Rome was not built in a day.'

Although I appreciate the general level of support, I don't think anyone is saying I am the -only- place to get good clothes, only -one- of the places to get good clothes.

This thread has wandered around a good deal and in this case has gotten quite specific. To bring it back on point, I'd venture to say no one would censure you for going to another craftsperson if I couldn't deliver, but that sending a craftsperson a photo of the dress you wanted from my website and saying 'make me this' would be asking someone to plagarize or knock off my design. Asking for such a copy is inherently wrong. Sending the craftsman a 15th C. image and saying 'make me something that looks like this', is fine.

That's just my take on it though.

Gwen

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:04 am
by Johannes
Aaron wrote:
Johannes wrote:That makes it a Trademark violation, and that is protected pretty well.


:shock: You trademarked the monkies that entertained Gwen and gave her cocktails? :shock:


Ask them to show you the Marks, but it ain't pretty! :lol:

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:10 am
by Zweihammer
[quote]
A fine example of what should not normally happen I agree. How about these two situations?
(These actually happened)
Example #1:
Customer Joe Bob is in the market for his first helm. Customer Joe Bob searches the internet (because let’s face it, in reality there are no physical stores that sell helms in Joe Bob’s major metropolitan city) for a helm and finds one that strikes his fancy.
Joe Bob contact said manufacturer to order said helm. Said manufacturer says “Hey cool Joe Bob! I’d be happy to make this for you. No problem. It should take XXX weeks and cost $XXX.â€

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:15 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
James B. wrote:
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:It seems and again, please correct me if I am wrong, that folks are saying I should not go elsewhere but simply suck it up and wait, wait, wait, at the merchants pleasure rather than go elsewhere to get the one item I am in the market for.


I have no doubt that it is worth the wait. Hence the reason to go to a craftsman first. It's hearing (and this is not just HE) "I'm too backed up." over and over and over again (again NOT just HE, I still want stuff from Gwen :D ) that drives many of us customers with money to burn elsewhere. Let me put it this way, I started looking for a dress for my wife in March with the hope that it would be ready by June. That is eleven weeks I was willing to wait for work from any vendor (again, again, not just HE) I think that shows that a) I am willing to allow for time and I have the money to send on the higher end items and want to do so.
We were only just able to find a single vendor in Germany who could deliver a dress by June as of Mother's Day! May 9th! It took us searching from March to May to even find a vendor. And the dress she is getting isn't even 100% what she wants. It's like 60%. We were constantly given one reason or another why we could not buy what we wanted. And this happens frequently.
I have never done this in my banner business but perhaps I should step away from that and look at it from purely a customer stand point.
I am a customer with money to spend, willing to wait a decent amount of time who wants high end items. Any takers?

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:18 am
by Johannes
Black Swan Designs wrote:This thread has wandered around a good deal and in this case has gotten quite specific. To bring it back on point, I'd venture to say no one would censure you for going to another craftsperson if I couldn't deliver, but that sending a craftsperson a photo of the dress you wanted from my website and saying 'make me this' would be asking someone to plagarize or knock off my design. Asking for such a copy is inherently wrong. Sending the craftsman a 15th C. image and saying 'make me something that looks like this', is fine.

That's just my take on it though.

Gwen


While this is a LEGAL thing to do, it is not necessarily ethical. Taking a picture from BSD's website and sending it to have someone else make a duplicate just seems wrong (and we get the same emails Zweihammer does), as does some company actually doing it.

As a company policy, we always try to direct a customer to a version of the item that we design in our own style. Balancing the ON Demand nature of the market with the reality of stock levels and inventory costs, is a major headache. No matter what, we never have the right helmet in the right size and options. Thanks god we don't have color as an option!

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:20 am
by Black Swan Designs
realize there are a lot of "starving students" in the world... who believe participation in a hobby is owed them.

Oh my goodness yes, we see a lot of that!!!!! It's one thing to want cheap tunics, and another matter entirely when someone who absolutely can't afford it wants to take up jousting on a shoestring. That's frightening.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:25 am
by Jeffrey Hedgecock
Allow me to trot out a few cliches, but they're no less apt even though they're cliches....

You get what you pay for

(in quality, availability, customer service, whatever...think of the buying experience in this equation)
If something is radically cheaper than a similar product, there's a reason and you probably can't see it. Train your eye more. Educate yourself about the product. Call the vendor and have them "sell you" on their product. That is, if they are reachable by phone AND they speak your language.


A lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part

(adjust your expectations to fit the marketplace. The "good-fast-cheap...pick two" applies here as well.)


and though it's not a cliche, it's still valid and the crux of the discussion...

No excuse in the universe give someone the right or justification to plagiarize/knockoff someone else's work.

Period. Full stop.


On the issue of offshore manufacture... Please realize that in some countries the handicraft industry is nonexistent. There are simply no manufacturers to produce handmade products in the quantity demanded by the marketplace, which is why people turn to places where the handwork tradition still exists and thrives. Retailers who seek offshore manufacture have no other options, so they provide the design and outsource the -manufacture only-. The retailers are the brains, the manufacturers are only that. Most don't sell direct, even if they could produce the product independently

Price is irrelevant when it's simply impossible to get something made domestically. We are faced with this in the US, where because of mainstream commercial manufacture having been moved offshore long ago, we are left with no handicraft manufacturing infrastructure at all. Retailers of medieval products didn't do it, retailers like Walmart, Kmart and Target did it 2 decades ago and it began long before that.

This is not the same thing at all from an offshore manufacturer retailing direct to customers. That is not at issue here. Unauthorized knockoffs are.

One of the side issues which drives the need for quantity of handicraft items is the impatience of the consumer. He wants it NOW, so won't wait for the domestic craftsman to make the item in small batches, and often won't pay the price for same. It's a circle driven by unrealistic expectations in many areas.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:28 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
Johannes wrote:
Black Swan Designs wrote:This thread has wandered around a good deal and in this case has gotten quite specific. To bring it back on point, I'd venture to say no one would censure you for going to another craftsperson if I couldn't deliver, but that sending a craftsperson a photo of the dress you wanted from my website and saying 'make me this' would be asking someone to plagarize or knock off my design. Asking for such a copy is inherently wrong. Sending the craftsman a 15th C. image and saying 'make me something that looks like this', is fine.

That's just my take on it though.

Gwen


While this is a LEGAL thing to do, it is not necessarily ethical. Taking a picture from BSD's website and sending it to have someone else make a duplicate just seems wrong (and we get the same emails Zweihammer does), as does some company actually doing it.

As a company policy, we always try to direct a customer to a version of the item that we design in our own style. Balancing the ON Demand nature of the market with the reality of stock levels and inventory costs, is a major headache. No matter what, we never have the right helmet in the right size and options. Thanks god we don't have color as an option!

Again, no argument here. We never sent anyone a picture from the HE site. We simply resigned ourselves to the fact that we could not get the HE gown we wanted and went looking at other styles and have ordered a completely different gown. Like I said, it's not 100% what we want (that would be Gwens fine work that we want) It's 60% because it's somewhat period and look ok. We have never asked for an HE knock off however.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:28 am
by Black Swan Designs
We were only just able to find a single vendor in Germany who could deliver a dress by June as of Mother's Day! May 9th! It took us searching from March to May to even find a vendor.

I think you just answered your own question here. It's not just me, bespoke dressmaking takes time from any reputable, professional shop, *especially* at the beginning of the season. If you had come to me in January, I could have turned your wife's clothes around in 2 weeks.

@Johannes- stock levels vs. inventory. Balancing size/style/colour/fabric were the reasons we have reduced the amount of on-hand inventory. We almost never had exactly what the customer wanted. We found that if people were going to pay $200-$500++ for something, they wanted it custom made, and with good reason! Up side is the customer has more control over the finished product, down side is it often takes a bit longer.

Gwen

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:33 am
by Tailoress
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:But when the customer attempts to provide custom to the merchant with the higher over head and said merchant cannot deliver, the customer is forced elsewhere, even possible to the overseas lower over head merchant. But at least the higher over head merchant had the right of first refusal.


All you're doing here is violently agreeing with me. :)

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:39 am
by William Frisbee
Black Swan Designs wrote:It's one thing to want cheap tunics, and another matter entirely when someone who absolutely can't afford it wants to take up jousting on a shoestring. That's frightening.


We should let them... Nature has a fantastic way of weeding out those who can't use common sense...

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:48 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
Tasha K wrote:
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:But when the customer attempts to provide custom to the merchant with the higher over head and said merchant cannot deliver, the customer is forced elsewhere, even possible to the overseas lower over head merchant. But at least the higher over head merchant had the right of first refusal.


All you're doing here is violently agreeing with me. :)


Well you can blame the red hair and stubborn Scottish blood in me then. :wink:

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:51 am
by Cillene mac Conghalaigh
Black Swan Designs wrote:We were only just able to find a single vendor in Germany who could deliver a dress by June as of Mother's Day! May 9th! It took us searching from March to May to even find a vendor.

I think you just answered your own question here. It's not just me, bespoke dressmaking takes time from any reputable, professional shop, *especially* at the beginning of the season. If you had come to me in January, I could have turned your wife's clothes around in 2 weeks.

Gwen


Well expect a call from us in Jan 2011 then cause the wife still want's your gown and what the wife wants the wife gets god help me! :wink:

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:52 am
by UlrichvR
I may be wrong or some will disagree and I get flamed but here it goes: Gwen, and others, I TOTALLY AGREE that its wrong for someone to take an item of yours and duplicate it elsewhere.

But I disagree with the strictness of the definition or explanation given. I don't see a problem if a novice has a merchant picked out to make them an item. I'll use me as an example. I do 15th Cent German and wear short doublets and hosen. Not to many people make them. I am describing what I want to the merchant. can't get my point across. Sooooo, I download a pick from the HE website or revivals and say " This type of doublet, BUT I want these custom buttons I found, and this type of material because no else offers it in this material or color. And finally, I want the length to come down a little longer, My wife doesn't like it when my crotch shows, cod piece or not".

Is this really taking anyone's pattern? Why is it different than if I show a picture of an actual 15th cent doublet and make the changes I want? Now, If I said make an exact copy of this, then I see an issue.

I'm in the armor business, its hard to describe want you want sometimes. i have people bring me pics from other sites all the time. I will not make an exact copy of someone else's work. But if they use a pic from Windrose or where ever, because the poor shlup didn't know that the helmet was called a Barbute and he goes " I want this style of helm, I don't know what it's called, but I want these changes to it (brass, fluting etc.) and continues to explain and show me" Or maybe he has a friend that has a helm and he wants one similar but with modifications. They bought it second hand and don't know who made it. I recognize it as a Waldryk helm. They prefer to by from me because they know my work and are familiar with me. Are we saying that it is wrong to make it?


If need be, feel free to PM me too. Ulrich

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:53 am
by white mountain armoury
Black Swan Designs wrote:[b]If you had come to me in January, I could have turned your wife's clothes around in 2 weeks.

I get this all the time, buisnes is slow in jan/feb/march, come late april folks want to place orders and must have the item for Pennsic, they have known since the previous Pennsic when the next one is, yet so many wait until the event is just a couple months away and then are bummed if I cant promise a pre Pennsic delivery date.
I have had occasional helmet orders in Jan that I am able to tun over in less than a week, come spring/summer a backlog builds.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 11:54 am
by Johannes
Cilléne mac Conghalaigh wrote:Again, no argument here. We never sent anyone a picture from the HE site. We simply resigned ourselves to the fact that we could not get the HE gown we wanted and went looking at other styles and have ordered a completely different gown. Like I said, it's not 100% what we want (that would be Gwens fine work that we want) It's 60% because it's somewhat period and look ok. We have never asked for an HE knock off however.


Cillene,

What you did was responsible and sensible, I was actually addressing Zweihammer's comment with my own experience. In not asking the German shop to duplicate HE's design, you acted as an ethical customer, buying the best alternative you could find.

I think that most knock offs are customer driven: They want the product, but don't like the price or the wait or the company, so they take the image and approach another shop with it. I get asked to do White Mountain stuff alot, partially because Adam and our shop have developed similar styles. We never take the job unless we can separate the customer from the need to have a knock off. If there is an element that the customer is stuck on, we have to document and interpret it, or occasionally get the permission of the person who made the original. Knotwolf and Windrose crossfeed a bit more than others just because we share sales space at events and have a good relationship, but I am sure Adam and Zweihammer can recall me calling about features of what they do as well, and some other people probably remember discussions we have had in a similar vein at events. As Ice said, it's less about business and more about family.

@Gwen: Our response was to cut our production time by reducing options and styles to make sure we could make a custom fit helmet in a set time frame. Our in stock items are there to offer alternatives, and to present projects we are interested in doing but can't pin down a time frame or cost to.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 12:13 pm
by Ottawa Swordplay
So here's a free idea to clothing manufacturers to help with stock. I'm sure there are issues I'm not seeing, but still, I think this would help.

For your most popular items, stock a variety of sizes in one colour, and one colour only. Offer to make custom versions in other colours.

Choose white as your stock colour.

Sell dye, or offer a service to dye items, or give recommendations about dying your garments.

I would totally by a white arming coat and dye it red or blue or whatever.

Just a suggestion.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 12:27 pm
by MJBlazek
white mountain armoury wrote:
Black Swan Designs wrote:[b]If you had come to me in January, I could have turned your wife's clothes around in 2 weeks.

I get this all the time, buisnes is slow in jan/feb/march, come late april folks want to place orders and must have the item for Pennsic, they have known since the previous Pennsic when the next one is, yet so many wait until the event is just a couple months away and then are bummed if I cant promise a pre Pennsic delivery date.
I have had occasional helmet orders in Jan that I am able to tun over in less than a week, come spring/summer a backlog builds.



I bet this has more to do with the receiving of tax refunds than the event.

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 12:36 pm
by Aaron
Johannes wrote:
Aaron wrote:
Johannes wrote:That makes it a Trademark violation, and that is protected pretty well.


:shock: You trademarked the monkies that entertained Gwen and gave her cocktails? :shock:


Ask them to show you the Marks, but it ain't pretty! :lol:


I thought they were supposed to be spanked, not branded! ;)

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 12:49 pm
by Black Swan Designs
Depends on which book you read. :twisted:

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 12:51 pm
by white mountain armoury
MJBlazek wrote:
white mountain armoury wrote:
Black Swan Designs wrote:[b]If you had come to me in January, I could have turned your wife's clothes around in 2 weeks.

I get this all the time, buisnes is slow in jan/feb/march, come late april folks want to place orders and must have the item for Pennsic, they have known since the previous Pennsic when the next one is, yet so many wait until the event is just a couple months away and then are bummed if I cant promise a pre Pennsic delivery date.
I have had occasional helmet orders in Jan that I am able to tun over in less than a week, come spring/summer a backlog builds.



I bet this has more to do with the receiving of tax refunds than the event.

It may, but from April right up to the day before Pennsic everything is almost always "I need it for Pennsic"

Posted: Tue May 18, 2010 12:57 pm
by Owyn
Jeffrey Hedgecock wrote:This is not the same thing at all from an offshore manufacturer retailing direct to customers. That is not at issue here. Unauthorized knockoffs are.


Agreed completely. If you make a design for Garment X and go overseas to have it made cheaply (but well), order a bunch wholesale and undercut dealers A, B, and C who are all hand-making their own versions of the same thing...?

Or if a hobby armorer is making armor in his spare time and selling it for half the price of dealers A, B, and C for roughly the same quality...?

...that's business, folks. You deal with it, or you find another line of work.

However, if you went and bought that garment from Dealer A, tore it apart and made a pattern from that, sent it to the overseas manufacturer to be made (cheap) so that you could undercut Dealer A selling the exact same product?

It's legal, but it's scuzzy. *I* would not buy from such a person.

You make your own design and market it, you can sell it for whatever the market will bear, and undercut or sell over the price of any other vendor. That's business. But if you're stealing designs from other people and selling the same product cheaper? Those people are not *adding* anything to the marketplace - they are not innovating new product, just copying others' work. And putting them out of business in the process, leaving us with less innovators to come up with better new things. This sort of thing is *very* damaging to the market as a whole, and should be strongly discouraged by us as consumers.

Even if you ignore the ethics of the situation, it's worth avoiding *exact copy* vendors because of the damage they will do to your ability to buy cool new things in the future.