https://books.google.com/books?id=qVBIA ... es&f=false
Mémoire de ce que le Roy vault, que le Francs-Archers de son royaume soient habillez en Jaques d'icy en avant, et pour ce à charge au Bailly de Mante en faire un get: et semble au dit Bailly de Mante que l'abillement de Jacques leur soit bien proufitable, et avantageux pour faire la guerre, veu que sont gens de pié et que en ayant les brigandines, il leur faut porter beaucoup de choses, que un homme seul et à pie ne peut faire. Et premièrement leur faut desdit Jacques de 30 toilles où de 25 a ung cuir de cerf à tout le moins; et si sont de 31 cuir de serf ils sont des bons. Les toilles usées et déliées moyennement sont les meilleurs et doivent estre les Jacques à quatre quartiers, et faut que les manches soient fortes, comme le corps réservé le cuir. Et doit être l'assiette des manches grande et que l'assiette prengne près du collet, non pas sur l'os de l'espaule qui soit large dessous l'aisselle, et plantureux dessous le bras, asses faulce et large sur les costes bas. Le collet fort comme le demourant du Jacques: et que le collet ne soit pas trop hault derriere, pour l'amour de salade. Et faut que le dit Jacques soit lasse devant et que il ait dessous une porte piece de la force du dit Jacques. Ainsi sera seur le dit Jacques et aise moien nant qu'il ait un Pourpoint sans manches ne colet, de deux toilles seulement, qui n aura que quatre doys de large sur l'espaule au quell Pourpoint il attachera ses chausses. Ainsi flotera dedens son Jacques, et sera a son aise: car il ne vit onques tuer de coups de main, ne de fleche desdans les dits Jacques ses homes, et se y souloient les gens bian combattre.
Memoire in what manner the king chooses that the Free Archers of his kingdom should be clothed in Jacks from henceforth, and for which he has commissioned his Baillif of Mante to give in a design. And it appears to the said Baillif of Mante that the vestment of Jacks would be good for them, profitable and advantageous for the purposes of war, seeing that they are infantry and that in having Brigandines, they may carry many more things than a man alone and on foot could otherwise do. And first there wants for those Jacks 30 or 25 cloths, and a buck-skin at least, and if they be of 30 and a buck skin they are best. Cloths, second hand, and undone, nevertheless are better, and the Jacques should be in four quarters, and the sleeves should be as strong as the bodies, with the exception of the leather; and the make of the sleeves should be large, and the shape should draw in near the collar, not on the back of the shoulder, which must be wide under the armpits, and plentiful under the arms, sufficiently loose and broad on the sides below. The collar should be like the rest of the Jacks, and this collar must not be too high behind for the sake of the salade. And these Jacques should be laced before, and that there be below a port piece of the strength of the said Jacks. Thus these Jacks will be sure and easy, notwithstanding they are worn with a Pourpoint without sleeves or collar, of two cloths only which is only four fingers wide on the shoulder. To this Pourpoint the chausses will be attached. Thus the wearer will float in his Jack and be at his ease. For the Baillif has never seen six men in the said Jacks killed by stabs, or by the piercing of arrows, of those who were men accustomed to fight.
The impression being that they meant "tailored in quarters" all the way through. Anyway, it was good linguistic exercise for me.
Jok has 5 buckets of rags to stuff a jak....