European riveted mail types and timeline.

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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

worldantiques wrote:I know of several examples, how do we date these other than if this particular type of mail died out after all wedge riveted mail took off, on the other hand if both types existed at the same time for longer than is thought there could not be any accurate dating.
This is the crux of the issue to me. Timeline, phases, progression - however you wish to phrase it, seems to indicates a movement from one style to another. There does seem to be a trend in Europe to move towards all-riveted construction, and wedge riveting. Without accurate dating of pieces, or as Sean noted, a better understanding of "high nailing" we can only guess when wedge riveting was introduced. Currently, I simply don't have enough evidence to say demi-riveted mail was totally displaced, as it appears there may be regional, if not temporal, hold-outs in discarding the older method within Europe.

We do know that early 14th century inventories distinguish between half-nailed and high-nailed mail. We do know by style that some items like mail brayettes seem to continue to use demi-riveted construction from the mid-15th century onward. We do agree that wedge riveting seems to be a distinctly European feature.

We effectively have documented, chronological, data points (Tofta coif, shirt attributed to Rudolph IV, Wallace A2), but I'm not sure if we can connect them with a line, or if they're points on branches of a tree.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Ernst wrote:
worldantiques wrote:I know of several examples, how do we date these other than if this particular type of mail died out after all wedge riveted mail took off, on the other hand if both types existed at the same time for longer than is thought there could not be any accurate dating.
This is the crux of the issue to me. Timeline, phases, progression - however you wish to phrase it, seems to indicates a movement from one style to another. There does seem to be a trend in Europe to move towards all-riveted construction, and wedge riveting. Without accurate dating of pieces, or as Sean noted, a better understanding of "high nailing" we can only guess when wedge riveting was introduced. Currently, I simply don't have enough evidence to say demi-riveted mail was totally displaced, as it appears there may be regional, if not temporal, hold-outs in discarding the older method within Europe.

We do know that early 14th century inventories distinguish between half-nailed and high-nailed mail. We do know by style that some items like mail brayettes seem to continue to use demi-riveted construction from the mid-15th century onward. We do agree that wedge riveting seems to be a distinctly European feature.

We effectively have documented, chronological, data points (Tofta coif, shirt attributed to Rudolph IV, Wallace A2), but I'm not sure if we can connect them with a line, or if they're points on branches of a tree.
If we were to write a true and accurate progression of European mail using only the facts that we know to be true it would sound very vague and wishy washy, perhaps something like this.
At some point in time (currently unknown) European riveted mail started to be manufactured with alternating rows of solid and round riveted links (demi riveted), whether European mail before this point was made with only round riveted links and no solid links is unknown. Almost no existing European riveted mail from early time periods exists.

At another point in time (currently unknown) the wedge shaped rivet was introduced to European mail makers, the reason behind the wedge shaped rivet is not known despite several theories being proposed. European mail makers gradually started to manufacture mail using the new wedge shaped rivets to replace the round shaped rivets. It has been suggested that European mail makers first started to replace the round shaped rivets and continued to use alternating rows of solid links and riveted links (wedge shaped instead of round) but there is no actual proof of this theory and it is possible that at least some European mail makers did not use rows of solid links when they first adopted the wedge shaped rivet.

There is evidence that at least some European mail makers manufactured riveted mail using alternating rows of solid links and wedge riveted links, this evidence is in the form of existing hauberks and horse armor (exact age and origin of manufacture not currently known) and through period inventory lists which show that both demi riveted and all riveted mail manufactured with wedge shaped rivets co-existed in the 1300s.

At some point in time (currently unknown) it appears that the majority of European mail eventually started to be manufactured with only wedge riveted links with solid links being completely eliminated. The main evidence for this is that the vast majority of surviving European riveted mail seems to be all wedge riveted. It has been suggested that large amounts of older mail was repurposed when plate armor became prevelant. Arms and large patches of mail from older hauberks were removed and used to fill in gaps on plate armors, this practice if true would help to account for the lack of existing older mail armor examples along with general wear and tear over time.

It is not know how long demi riveted mail continued to be manufactured, it is also unknown how long round rivets continued to be used, it has been suggested and it is possible that in some parts of Europe round rivets continued to be used in the manufacture of mail well past the point when the majority of mail makers quit using round shaped rivets.

Currently it is almost impossible to accurately state the age and origin of existing European wedge riveted mail examples, except for a few documented examples, some Eastern European hauberks which are very distinctive, and some German hauberks which had metal makers marks attached when they were manufactured.

The lack of access to museum collections of European mail for research purposes along with the lack of detailed images and discriptions from both museum and private collections has slowed down research by interested individuals.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

You reduce to the absurd, almost as much as I do! :wink: Maybe that's why we butt heads? Dan is usually much more precise in his language, while I tend to over-generalize. Without trying to be too much of a piss-ant pedant, I'll offer some thoughts on how to better express your thesis, though I realize you are frustrated with me.
At some point in time (currently unknown) European riveted mail started to be manufactured with alternating rows of solid and round riveted links (demi riveted), whether European mail before this point was made with only round riveted links and no solid links is unknown. Almost no existing European riveted mail from early time periods exists.
We do have various finds of Iron Age, Celtic, and Roman mail which all seem to be demi-riveted with round rivets. Don't let the lack of early medieval mail overshadow those earlier mail samples. Dark Age mail seems to continue the method. I think one author mentions Roman mail being typically left-hand helix rather than the more common medieval right-hand twist. I'll have to see if I can find it again.
There is evidence that at least some European mail makers manufactured riveted mail using alternating rows of solid links and wedge riveted links, this evidence is in the form of existing hauberks and horse armor (exact age and origin of manufacture not currently known) and through period inventory lists which show that both demi riveted and all riveted mail manufactured with wedge shaped rivets co-existed in the 1300s.
The inventories distinguish between half-nailed and "high nailed" (presumed to be all riveted), but don't mention rivet shape at all, although we might not correctly understand "high nailing". It's also possible that "high nailing" is all riveted rings with round rivets.
It is not know how long demi riveted mail continued to be manufactured, it is also unknown how long round rivets continued to be used, it has been suggested and it is possible that in some parts of Europe round rivets continued to be used in the manufacture of mail well past the point when the majority of mail makers quit using round shaped rivets.
You know Wiki will demand a "by whom" for the qualifier.
Currently it is almost impossible to accurately state the age and origin of existing European wedge riveted mail examples, except for a few documented examples, some Eastern European hauberks which are very distinctive, and some German hauberks which had metal makers marks attached when they were manufactured.
There are also archaeological finds. We know the date before which mail in the Wisby mass graves was made, or mail from Soto's encampment in Tallahassee. We have the AMS C14 dating from the Tofta coif's attached leather thongs.

I'd leave out the part about the distinctive Eastern hauberks, and perhaps replace it with a recognition that some items, e.g. brayettes, can be generally, if not precisely, dated based upon the form of the armor. For another example, many mail sleeves have previously been given 15th and 16th century dates on the mistaken presumption that they didn't appear in use before that time. The current evidence point to their use in the earliest years of the 14th century, and strongly suggests they might have been used in the closing decades of the 13th. While 14th-16th centuries isn't a precise date, it might be a more accurate one barring other evidence. There are also archaeological finds. We know the date before which mail in the Wisby mass graves was made (before 1361), or mail from Soto's encampment in Tallahassee (before 1537). We have the AMS C14 dating from the Tofta coif's attached leather thongs (c. 1250).
The lack of access to museum collections of European mail for research purposes along with the lack of detailed images and discriptions from both museum and private collections has slowed down research by interested individuals.
Most museums with which I have dealt will be glad to make some accomodation for study. A letter to the curator, an attempt to find a mutually suitable time, and an understanding of publishing rights is often all that's required, along with time and money. It's often left to independent scholars such as yourself to do this work, as museums are primarily staffed with people whose training is in conservation and display rather than arms and armor.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Ernst wrote:You reduce to the absurd, almost as much as I do! :wink: Maybe that's why we butt heads? Dan is usually much more precise in his language, while I tend to over-generalize. Without trying to be too much of a piss-ant pedant, I'll offer some thoughts on how to better express your thesis, though I realize you are frustrated with me.
Ernst, Dan throws out unproven theories without ever offering a shred of evidence, once confronted he disappears from the discussion. At least you are willing to debate a subject and offer some evidence. Some of the best research material I have come across was by exchanging information in discussions such as this. People tend to dig deep when trying to prove or disprove a point. The only people I am fustrated with are the ones that have an opinion but just sit there saying nothing.
Dan Howard wrote:The two main manufacturing centers were in Southern Germany and Northen Italy and the Italian mail seems to have always used round rivets. Wedge riveting seems to be largely limited to German producers.
Dan has repeated this more than once, you do not question this statement but you do alternately question and or disregard the published research by both Burgess and Richardson, but if Erik S offers up a theory without any proof this does not get questioned, whats up with that?
Ernst wrote:Erik has stated several times that he believes the "watershed" around the rivet is a German feature of manufacture. It might even be restricted to Bavaria -- Augsburg-Nuremburg -- though I doubt we can be that restrictive, yet.
Ernst wrote:We do have various finds of Iron Age, Celtic, and Roman mail which all seem to be demi-riveted with round rivets. Don't let the lack of early medieval mail overshadow those earlier mail samples. Dark Age mail seems to continue the method. I think one author mentions Roman mail being typically left-hand helix rather than the more common medieval right-hand twist. I'll have to see if I can find it again.
The small handful of corroded ancient mail remains does not prove that all round riveted mail was never used, you can not at this time absolutely rule this out.
Ernst wrote: The inventories distinguish between half-nailed and "high nailed" (presumed to be all riveted), but don't mention rivet shape at all, although we might not correctly understand "high nailing". It's also possible that "high nailing" is all riveted rings with round rivets.
Once again, on the subject ot the Tower of London inventories, Richardson specifically mentions that most mail was wedge riveted, you seem to have no regard for his research.

Ernst wrote:I'd leave out the part about the distinctive Eastern hauberks, and perhaps replace it with a recognition that some items, e.g. brayettes, can be generally, if not precisely, dated based upon the form of the armor.
Some Eastern mail is very distinctive such as baidana and should be mentioned. Unless it is absolutely impossible for brayettes to have been made with pieces of mail from older hauberks then the dating on them is completely useless. You know that many older mail items were taken apart and used to fill in the gaps on plate armor. I think Wade has a hauberk with the arms missing and a large patch missing on the back, perhaps a brayette was made from that.

Ernst wrote:Most museums with which I have dealt will be glad to make some accomodation for study. A letter to the curator, an attempt to find a mutually suitable time, and an understanding of publishing rights is often all that's required, along with time and money. It's often left to independent scholars such as yourself to do this work, as museums are primarily staffed with people whose training is in conservation and display rather than arms and armor.
Lets see you try this with the museums that actually have large collections of under and un-documented mail, try the Met or how about one of the foreign museums that has vast collections of unseen mail like Topkapı Palace Museum, Istanbul, please let me know what they say.

Why not write up your own timeline/progression, I would like to see how it differs from mine.

Some hauberks in the storage rooms of the Topkapı Palace Museum.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Eric,

You may be pleased to hear that further research may overturn my argument in favor of brayettes being used as evidence for demi-riveted construction into the 15th century.

https://archive.org/stream/documentsete ... a_djvu.txt
1322. — ARMURES DU C0MTE DE FLANDRE.
Robert of Béthune, (Robert III, Count of Flanders) obit. 1322.

Item, unes braies de fier wambisiés.

Item, a braies of iron, gamboissed.

This would seem to indicate some mail brayettes might indeed date to the first 1/4 of the 14th century. We have already pushed Richardson's dates for mail sleeves back a few decades as well based on inventory listings. If your theory is correct, demi-riveted sleeves and brayettes like those at the Met might be earlier than previously believed.

FWIW, I don't agree with Dan's statement that Italian mail always uses round rivets. I haven't yet seen any evidence to contradict Erik Schmid's assertion that the watershed effect is German, but that doesn't mean I don't question it. And I have the greatest regard for Thom Richardson's research, though he's not infallible, either. All in all, I welcome your attempt at a timeline, as I have proposed similar ideas in the past. I think the difference is that I have now drawn back from trying to be so absolute. It's a good guideline, but I'm not yet convinced we can use it with any degree of certainty without more research to prove or disprove aspects of it.

-- Mart
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Ernst wrote:Eric,

You may be pleased to hear that further research may overturn my argument in favor of brayettes being used as evidence for demi-riveted construction into the 15th century.

https://archive.org/stream/documentsete ... a_djvu.txt
1322. — ARMURES DU C0MTE DE FLANDRE.
Robert of Béthune, (Robert III, Count of Flanders) obit. 1322.

Item, unes braies de fier wambisiés.

Item, a braies of iron, gamboissed.

This would seem to indicate some mail brayettes might indeed date to the first 1/4 of the 14th century. We have already pushed Richardson's dates for mail sleeves back a few decades as well based on inventory listings.
Didnt Richardson already push the date of mail sleeves back to the earliest plate armors????
Image
If your theory is correct, demi-riveted sleeves and brayettes like those at the Met might be earlier than previously believed.

FWIW, I don't agree with Dan's statement that Italian mail always uses round rivets. I haven't yet seen any evidence to contradict Erik Schmid's assertion that the watershed effect is German, but that doesn't mean I don't question it. And I have the greatest regard for Thom Richardson's research, though he's not infallible, either. All in all, I welcome your attempt at a timeline, as I have proposed similar ideas in the past. I think the difference is that I have now drawn back from trying to be so absolute. It's a good guideline, but I'm not yet convinced we can use it with any degree of certainty without more research to prove or disprove aspects of it.

-- Mart
Mart, we actually agree for the most part, the main problem as I see it is that while we can gather images in one place for study, getting the written references all in one place is much harder, right now they are spread over many different forum discussions, the brayette reference you just brought up is a great example of this. The period inventories can hardly be argued with except for some terms that have not been figured out yet such as "musekins".

I think that having a tenative timeline/progression, along with adding the known reliable references to this timeline/progression would be a great help to people trying to understand the history of European mail, it would also finally put all of the currently known reliable information in one place.

I personally agree with Richardson about demi wedge riveted mail, I can not see any evidence that it continued to be made past the point when all wedge riveted mail became the norm. Why would any mail maker go to the extra trouble of making demi riveted when the competition was not making demi riveted any more, it just seems logical that once wedge riveting became the accepted standard that the solid links were eliminated shortly afterwards.....just my personal opinion.



This is towards the end of Richardsons essay and it is well worth reading.
The detailed information provided by the privy wardrobe accounts about arms and armour in England during the period of the privy wardrobe is significant, and provides the single most extensive and important source on the subject. This again is unsurprising, given the importance of the accounts in the study of firearms in England for the same period.

The information is at its most profuse for the early period of the armoury. The accounts provide the richest single vein of information on the armour of the men-at- arms in England. For the first time we learn that mail sleeves, collars and paunces, rather than full mail shirts, were used from the very introduction of plate armour, and this enables us to reconsider the date of surviving defences, including examples in the Royal Armouries which may have survived from the period of the privy wardrobe. The accounts provide an explanation of a distinction between types of mail of fully riveted and of half riveted, half solid construction, which has never previously been understood, and which again allows the re-dating of surviving objects by over a century. Details of description of mail shirts of the same transitional period show the change from short to long sleeves and the provision of integral collars, which can again be observed in surviving examples which can be dated much earlier than hitherto.

The accounts provide details of the changing terminology of armour during this transitional period in the history of armour. Much of this is a transition from Latin to French terms: thus the mail thena becomes the coiffe, the antebracchia and retrobracchia of the 1330s become the avantbras and rerebras of the 1340s and 1350s, while other terms indicate a change in type, such as the mail collar, where the pisane of the 1330s, 1340s and 1350s was replaced by the standard from the 1360s; or the gauntlet, where the waynpayns for the tournament existed alongside the cerothes of plate for the field.

For some rare terms there is a large amount of new information, though they remain incompletely understood. The mail musekins found in the 1330s and 1340s are a good example; the accounts furnish substantial information about them, such as their issue along with mail aventail, collar, sleeves and paunces and a pair of plates, and their price. There is even a single reference to butted mail, of very large links for the tournament, in contradiction of the usual understanding that all such mail was either modern or Asian in origin. Jazerant mail appears much more in the accounts than would be expected, but appears alongside terms such as ‘privy tunic’ lined with mail, which ought to be synonymous. Mail of steel links was differentiated from that of iron links, and correspondingly twice as expensive. Mail shirts for the tournament were differentiated from those for the field, though we have no idea of the difference. Numerous examples of mail fully constructed of latten links are recorded, as opposed to mail garments with decorative borders or dags of latten links. All these are aspects of the study of mail which have been hitherto unknown.

The accounts provide the largest corpus of prices for armour in England for the fourteenth century. They show that where we might expect standardisation among products bought in great numbers, there was in fact wide variation in the prices of apparently identical items. For example, the purchases of the late 1360s by John Sleaford show that a regular shirt of riveted iron mail could cost anything between 16s. 1d. and £2 6s. 8d., while a mail shirt of steel links could cost between £3 6s. 8d and £4. Bacinets with mail aventails varied in price between 24s. and 17s.

By the 1370s the accounts for armour made for the king and members of the royal family show that the very finest pairs of plate could cost £4 13s. 8d., and the very finest complete armour could total £21, a sum roughly four times the price of a complete armour of plate in the middle of the fifteenth century. Despite the ostentation of the materials used in much of this armour, the silks, satins and velvets with which the pairs of plates were covered, it is quite clear from the accounts that this armour was intended for serious wear on the battlefield. Despite the importance of the tournament under Edward III, the Tower armoury retained only a very small quantity of arms and armour made specifically for the tournament, and most of this specialist gear was inherited by John Fleet from William of Langley in 1325, and passed on, unissued, to Robert Mildenhall in 1344.

Information about the sourcing of armour in the early period is also very interesting. Though the only previously published details suggested the Low Countries origin of much English armour of the mid-fourteenth century, the details in Fleet’s account confirm it, and show how important Cologne and Maastricht were as armour-making centres at that time.747 77% of the bacinets, 96% of the helms, 66% of the kettle hats, 84% of the pairs of plates, 83% of the arm defences, 86% of the gauntlets, 85% of the cuisses and 70% of the greaves were imported from those two centres. This makes the traditional ascription of the group of surviving great helms to English manufacturer highly improbable, and shows that they were much more likely to have been made in Maastricht. The accounts also challenge the traditional dating of this group of great helms for the field to the later fourteenth century, by providing evidence not only of their purchase and issue between 1338 and 1344, but of their return to the Tower in 1353 old and worn out, and their subsequent disappearance from the records in 1360 apart from a small rump which remained at the Tower for the next fifty years. The accounts also challenge the traditional assumption that the bacinet of the mid-fourteenth century was always or even usually fitted with a visor. Though it may be that many of the bacinets recorded in the accounts had visors which were not mentioned, only one, the personal bacinet of Edward III, is described as having a visor (or in this specific case, two visors).

One of the most fundamental ideas that the accounts challenge is the idea that before the fifteenth century there was no such thing as a complete armour, that armours were merely assembled from components by their owners rather than made as a homogeneous whole.748 From the late 1330s the accounts provide evidence that though plate armours were not manufactured as complete sets, armours were certainly issued to men-at-arms as full sets, such as the set comprising a helm, bacinet and aventail, mail collar, pairs of plates, rerebraces, vambraces, gauntlets, cuisses, greaves, mail paunces and sleeves given by the king to Sir Thomas le Brut in 1338. Numerous similar issues are recorded in Mildenhall’s accounts, where for the first time they are termed ‘complete armours’ (hernesia integra) in the accounts.

The issue of great helms with these armours in the 1330s and 1340s, taken together with the continued issue of horse armour during the same period, lends weight to the idea that the English armies expected to retain a reserve of mounted men-at-arms during this early phase of the Hundred Years War, for which evidence can be found in contemporary descriptions of the non-battles of the Weardale campaign of 1327 and of Buirenfosse in 1339, and that the ‘English system’ was not, at least at the outbreak of the war, as cut and dried as it is often perceived.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

worldantiques wrote:
Ernst wrote:Eric,

You may be pleased to hear that further research may overturn my argument in favor of brayettes being used as evidence for demi-riveted construction into the 15th century.

https://archive.org/stream/documentsete ... a_djvu.txt
1322. — ARMURES DU C0MTE DE FLANDRE.
Robert of Béthune, (Robert III, Count of Flanders) obit. 1322.

Item, unes braies de fier wambisiés.

Item, a braies of iron, gamboissed.

This would seem to indicate some mail brayettes might indeed date to the first 1/4 of the 14th century. We have already pushed Richardson's dates for mail sleeves back a few decades as well based on inventory listings.
Académie royale d'archéologie de Belgique - 1913
Des harnas de gambes (1297, 1316, 1336) c'est-à-dire cuissards. jambières et solerets, qu'on retrouve sous les désignations ci-après : Une paire de cuissieus et les grèves, un escut (l345) - uns quissereus (1369) - unes braies de fier (1398)
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Since Wade's study session has come and gone again, Tom B.'s posting of some of the mail reminded me of another point.

Voider (gusset) M-4: all riveted construction, except the demi-riveted brass edging.

Mail sleeve M-15: all riveted construction, except the demi-riveted brass remnant of a cuff. (stabilized with black tie wire, butted rings.)
http://www.allenantiques.com/M-15.html

One possible conclusion is that the brass edgings were made in a different, but contemporary shop which still used demi-riveted construction, and were then added to contemporary items of all riveted iron and steel.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Dan Howard »

Given the way the guilds operated in Europe at the time it is almost certain that the brass decoration was not made in the same workshop as the iron mail.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Ernst wrote:Since Wade's study session has come and gone again, Tom B.'s posting of some of the mail reminded me of another point.

Voider (gusset) M-4: all riveted construction, except the demi-riveted brass edging.

Mail sleeve M-15: all riveted construction, except the demi-riveted brass remnant of a cuff. (stabilized with black tie wire, butted rings.)
http://www.allenantiques.com/M-15.html

One possible conclusion is that the brass edgings were made in a different, but contemporary shop which still used demi-riveted construction, and were then added to contemporary items of all riveted iron and steel.
.....or the brass edgings were older and added to a newer hauberk.

Do you have a link to the mail that Tom posted from Wades study session?
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Here's Tom's link to this year's mail photos:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 733&type=3
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

The brass links are attached by butted links, this is certainly an older decorative piece that was added at a later date, someone pimping their hauberk?

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/or ... 5778dd.jpg
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by wcallen »

Good catch.

I need to update my description to indicate that. As I remember, the "brass" mail seems pretty well put together. It doesn't scream that it (by itself) is terribly modern.

If you find anything else I need to fix in descriptions or that could help me be more accurate, send it over. Mail isn't my core competency.

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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Indeed! I took photos of the brass edging and of the body of the gusset, but none of the connection.

Wade, perhaps some good photos of the junction of the edging to the sleeve are in order? I know it has a lot of Mac's butted black iron rings to preserve integrity (see lower right), but one of my detailed photos shows a rather worn riveted iron ring going through a punched brass one. If so, that's an example of an all-riveted sleeve with a demi-riveted brass edging.
http://www.allenantiques.com/images/M-15-detail-2.jpg

It always seemed to me a lot of the brass edgings are added after the main body of the work has been constructed. Whether this is due to the iron being heat treated in some way that the brass couldn't withstand, or someone adding a bit of bling to an off-the-shelf purchase, or an addition by a more modern seller is hard to say.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Ernst wrote:Here's Tom's link to this year's mail photos:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 733&type=3
Ernest, thanks for the link, and Wade thanks all of the photos of your mail.

The brass links seem to have a water shed, this and the fact that the solid links are flat (according to current belief) would make this German mail?

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Sinigaglia mail, with round brass links.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Tom B. »

Ernst wrote:Indeed! I took photos of the brass edging and of the body of the gusset, but none of the connection.

Wade, perhaps some good photos of the junction of the edging to the sleeve are in order? I know it has a lot of Mac's butted black iron rings to preserve integrity (see lower right), but one of my detailed photos shows a rather worn riveted iron ring going through a punched brass one. If so, that's an example of an all-riveted sleeve with a demi-riveted brass edging.
http://www.allenantiques.com/images/M-15-detail-2.jpg

It always seemed to me a lot of the brass edgings are added after the main body of the work has been constructed. Whether this is due to the iron being heat treated in some way that the brass couldn't withstand, or someone adding a bit of bling to an off-the-shelf purchase, or an addition by a more modern seller is hard to say.

This photo is of the brass on the vertical edge of the body section:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... 5057_o.jpg


Here are the best Images I have of the cuff:
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... 6657_o.jpg
https://scontent-ord1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hp ... 0516_o.jpg
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

worldantiques wrote:
Ernst wrote:Here's Tom's link to this year's mail photos:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set ... 733&type=3
Ernest, thanks for the link, and Wade thanks all of the photos of your mail.

The brass links seem to have a water shed, this and the fact that the solid links are flat (according to current belief) would make this German mail?

Image


Sinigaglia mail, with round brass links.
Image
The current belief is that the watershed around the rivet is evidence of German manufacture. I don't know that a conclusion regarding the solid links being flat has tied it to any region, but rather simply being visible evidence for punching. This is further indicated by the striations and flanges along the edges of the solid rings.

Interestingly, the Sinigaglia edges have the opposite construction, with the haubergeon being demi-riveted, but the edging being all riveted.

The latten workers definitely have their own thing going on.

Tom, the photo of the edging on the body of the sleeve is a fine example of the point. We have a demi-riveted latten edge attached to an all-riveted sleeve. The ferrous rings go through the solid lattens, so the edging would have to have been attached by the makers of the sleeve. The latten edging could, I would suggest likely was, provided by another maker specializing in latten mail.

So to pursue worldantiques and Thom Richardson's theory regarding dating, we must wonder why latten makers continued with the older tradition of demi-riveted construction, or if Wade's sleeve should have an earlier dating.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Then there is the Met's 14.25.1540, a known German shirt with signet ring ("bechler") with both the shirt and latten edging of all riveted construction, and iron rivets in the latten rings. This seems likely to be made all-together in the same shop.
http://images.metmuseum.org/CRDImages/a ... TS1D1b.JPG
http://www.metmuseum.org/collection/the ... arch/26849
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Here's an interesting area of Wade's M-15, with Tom's photo of the cuff.
M-15cuff.jpg
M-15cuff.jpg (75.77 KiB) Viewed 1223 times
There is a line of ferrous riveted rings running the full length of the border. Imagine a strip of latten rings pre-made and sold for edging cuffs. This example would be demi-riveted, alternating three punched rings with 2 riveted rings. After cutting this ribbon to length and attaching it to the sleeve, the sleeve-maker would close the seam with the iron rings which he was using. I think that's what we're seeing here. Mac's butted stabilization rings appear on the lower left.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Tom B. »

Ernst wrote:Here's an interesting area of Wade's M-15, with Tom's photo of the cuff.
M-15cuff.jpg
There is a line of ferrous riveted rings running the full length of the border. Imagine a strip of latten rings pre-made and sold for edging cuffs. This example would be demi-riveted, alternating three punched rings with 2 riveted rings. After cutting this ribbon to length and attaching it to the sleeve, the sleeve-maker would close the seam with the iron rings which he was using. I think that's what we're seeing here. Mac's butted stabilization rings appear on the lower left.

Nice find!
I know that one set of all riveted steel sleeves at the Wallace also has demi riveted latten cuffs.
If I remember correctly the cuffs are open.
I will have to dig out my Wallace Thumb drive and take a closer look.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Glen K »

To add a bit of pointless levity, just last week I was discussing mail with a colleague (who's a labor historian) after a demonstration. He's not familiar with arms & armour at all, but was very interested. He'd asked if each ring was riveted, and I gave the 30-second version of "it seems to have gone from alternating to all riveted, but we're not sure why." He looked at me serious as a heart attack and said "I can tell you why... the rivet-makers guilds pushed it through!"
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Ernst wrote: Tom, the photo of the edging on the body of the sleeve is a fine example of the point. We have a demi-riveted latten edge attached to an all-riveted sleeve. The ferrous rings go through the solid lattens, so the edging would have to have been attached by the makers of the sleeve. The latten edging could, I would suggest likely was, provided by another maker specializing in latten mail.

So to pursue worldantiques and Thom Richardson's theory regarding dating, we must wonder why latten makers continued with the older tradition of demi-riveted construction, or if Wade's sleeve should have an earlier dating.
Burgess did state that the the change from shop to shop may have been slow, if the latten mail was made by specific shops it is possible that their change over to all riveted links had not happened as rapidly as the steel mail makers.

On the other hand, the fact that a lot of older mail was exported out of Europe at some point may explain some of this latten edging. It is probable that any exported hauberks would have the latten edging removed prior to export and the latten edging was sold to add some bling to newly made hauberks.

Image
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Tom B. »

All of the Wallace sleeves of ferrous rings have demi-riveted latten borders.
These are A12, A13, A14, & A15
All seem to be attached by riveted ferrous rings, not butted.
I can't find a ferrous seam closing the any of the cuffs.
At least a couple of the sleeves appear to have the latten cuff open on the bottom edge, it is unclear if the other tow are the same.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

And A10-11 are the demi-riveted latten sleeves with tinning.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Burgess makes the presumption that mail makers were punching their own solid rings, as opposed to buying them from a dedicated maker. Wire drawers had separate guilds for those drawing brass and those drawing iron wire. It's not much of a leap to presume the same was true for mail makers, or that the men who punched washers worked in a different though associated shop.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

Glen K wrote:To add a bit of pointless levity, just last week I was discussing mail with a colleague (who's a labor historian) after a demonstration. He's not familiar with arms & armour at all, but was very interested. He'd asked if each ring was riveted, and I gave the 30-second version of "it seems to have gone from alternating to all riveted, but we're not sure why." He looked at me serious as a heart attack and said "I can tell you why... the rivet-makers guilds pushed it through!"
In my opinion it was most likely a matter of economics or the nature of the material, rather than some defensive concern. Since the inventory of Louis X seems to be one of the earliest distinguishing between the demi-nailed and high-nailed pieces, an since much of the King's mail was made of steel, is it possible that punching steel plate was much harder with their tools than punching iron plate had been? Likewise, I recall Erik Schmid remarking that brass was a pain to work with. Perhaps they brass workers kept hold of punched rings to avoid riveting, while steel workers went to all riveted to avoid punching.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Andeerz »

Ernst, I really like that explanation. But I have some confusion about the costs surrounding riveted vs. punched rings.

Would not punching iron rings from a sheet be relatively wasteful compared to slitting sheet and drawing wire? What would one do with the left-over discs of iron left behind from punching out the center? Please forgive my ignorance, though, if I am misunderstanding something fundamental here. For example, I do not know if drawing wrought iron would require substantial, repeated heatings that could cause loss of iron to oxidation...

Anyway, if punching rings is indeed wasteful, would it be wasteful enough to be a significant factor behind making all-riveted construction? If that were the case, tough... I would imagine the "timeline" to be reversed, with all-riveted happening first and then demi-riveted maille emerging as quality iron became more readily available. But, then again, what Ernst just said about perhaps higher carbon content irons being harder to punch would favor the "timeline" as we have it now.

And is a structural basis for adopting all-riveted construction all that unlikely? I wonder... is there anything that happens to drawn wrought iron that doesn't happen to punched rings that would enhance their integrity?
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Tom B. wrote:All of the Wallace sleeves of ferrous rings have demi-riveted latten borders.
These are A12, A13, A14, & A15
All seem to be attached by riveted ferrous rings, not butted.
I can't find a ferrous seam closing the any of the cuffs.
At least a couple of the sleeves appear to have the latten cuff open on the bottom edge, it is unclear if the other tow are the same.
Tom, since the Wallace Collection shows almost no info on their mail and their tiny images are next to useless I assume your observations are based on the Wallace usb images, do you have any photos you can post.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Ernst wrote:Burgess makes the presumption that mail makers were punching their own solid rings, as opposed to buying them from a dedicated maker. Wire drawers had separate guilds for those drawing brass and those drawing iron wire. It's not much of a leap to presume the same was true for mail makers, or that the men who punched washers worked in a different though associated shop.
The main aspect of his statement was that mail making shops would not necessarily have stopped making solid links in unison, and if the brass demi riveted links that are attached to all wedge riveted hauberks were made in the same time period this would go along with his statement. Is there any known evidence that brass links were made by a seperate shop than the steel/iron links?
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Tom B. »

worldantiques wrote:
Tom B. wrote:All of the Wallace sleeves of ferrous rings have demi-riveted latten borders.
These are A12, A13, A14, & A15
All seem to be attached by riveted ferrous rings, not butted.
I can't find a ferrous seam closing the any of the cuffs.
At least a couple of the sleeves appear to have the latten cuff open on the bottom edge, it is unclear if the other tow are the same.
Tom, since the Wallace Collection shows almost no info on their mail and their tiny images are next to useless I assume your observations are based on the Wallace usb images, do you have any photos you can post.
A-12 Cuff detail
Image

A-13 Cuff detail
Image

A-14 cuff detail
Image

A-15 cuff detail
Image

A-2 shirt bottom edge
Image

A-2 shirt sleeve cuf (short sleeved)
Image

A-6 shirt bottom edge
Image

A-7 shirt bottom edge
Image

A-7 shirt neck slit
Image

A-7 shirt sleeve cuff (long sleeve)
Image
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by worldantiques »

Tom B. wrote:
worldantiques wrote:
Tom B. wrote:All of the Wallace sleeves of ferrous rings have demi-riveted latten borders.
These are A12, A13, A14, & A15
All seem to be attached by riveted ferrous rings, not butted.
I can't find a ferrous seam closing the any of the cuffs.
At least a couple of the sleeves appear to have the latten cuff open on the bottom edge, it is unclear if the other tow are the same.
Tom, since the Wallace Collection shows almost no info on their mail and their tiny images are next to useless I assume your observations are based on the Wallace usb images, do you have any photos you can post.
Tom, thanks for the images, just to be clear, these examples are not demi riveted.

A-2 shirt bottom edge
Image

A-2 shirt sleeve cuf (short sleeved)
Image

A-6 shirt bottom edge
Image
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Sean M »

I wonder if Randall Story has anything on early references to high or full or half riveting in the database of prices which he compiled for his PhD thesis. He makes a pretty good case that the price of both iron and mail fell drastically over the course of the thirteenth century. On one hand that might involve people looking harder for ways to save time or materials, but on the other hand it might have made the maille-smiths less worried about loosing some of their iron to the punches which made solid rings.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Ernst »

worldantiques wrote:Tom, thanks for the images, just to be clear, these examples are not demi riveted.

A-2 shirt bottom edge
Image

A-2 shirt sleeve cuf (short sleeved)
Image
Fortunately A2 is likely the most studied mail in the world. The maker's ring (+ernart couwein) allowed identification in documentary records to narrow the dating to the years 1425-1450. The latten rings on the sleeve cuffs are attached at a right angle for some unknown reason. It's also worth noting that many of the demi-riveted latten edges apparently use ferrous rivets as well.
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by Tom B. »

For completeness I decided to add these photos of A-10.
(A-10 & 11 are a pair of sleeves made from tinned demi-riveted latten rings)

A-10 bottom corner of body section
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A-10 cuff
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Re: European riveted mail types and timeline.

Post by James Arlen Gillaspie »

I just had a dumb idea... It occurred to me that perhaps in some places the makers of latten links supplied them to the iron mailsmiths who assembled them however they needed, and just used the rivets they had on hand, which, of course, were iron. Apparently latten rivets were not necessary to get the latten links to work.
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