The Armour Archive

I thought I'd throw this out there in case anyone was interested.

Regia period is a departure for me, but I did a load of research for a client last Winter which resulted in striking up a very cordial correspondence with some of the folks at the top of Regia and their suppliers, and it seems to be a waste not to use my new-found knowledge and contacts.

I currently have the makings for some UK Regia Anglorum grade clothing in stock, ready to be made up. The wools have all been approved by the UK RA Authenticity officer, and the trims have all been custom woven for me by a Regia weaver in the UK. All the colours are approved for middling-status portrayals, and I have 3 types of woven trimming in Regia approved "Viking/Norse", "Saxon" and "Norman" styles. Both tunics and trews will be cut on Regia approved patterns and finished in a Regia approved style, i.e. the long seams sewn by machine and all trimming applied by hand, as well as all finishing done by hand.

My intention was to have some tunics and trews available for Pennsic but unfortunately wasn't able to get them done.

If anyone is interested in Regia clothing of this quality, please contact me directly and at this point you'll have your pick of the wools and trimmings, as well as having the items made to measure rather than off the peg. Otherwise, I'll have 2 sets of Regia clothing on display at the National Living History Faire in Leamington Spa (near Coventry, UK) October 29,30 and 31.

Gwen
Black Swan Designs

sweet, is this going to be a new reg. item in the future???

I had the fortune to see the goods when they arrived at HE World Headquarters.

They were absolutely fab - and I entertained thoughts of knocking Gwen down, grabbing the stuff and bolting for my truck...

...and I don't 'do' any period this would be correct for!

Wolf, I'd like to make Regia quality stuff a regular item. I offer custom/handstitched finish garments for the other periods, so this seems like a natural next step. All my clothing is made in the US by professional stitchers I pay a living wage to, so whether I offer these items regularly will depend entirely on what people are willing to spend for hand finished clothing made of high quality wools with hand woven trim. Because of the exchange rate, it may turn out that only people in the UK will buy them. Dunno, we'll just have to wait and see.

And Sasha's comment now explains that dreamy, faraway yet speculating look that came to his eye when we opened the box and looked at the weaving.....

Gwen

<Homer voice>

Must...maintain...poker...face...

</Homer voice>

Sasha_khan wrote:I entertained thoughts of knocking Gwen down, grabbing the stuff and bolting for my truck...

...and I don't 'do' any period this would be correct for!

Which wouldn't be correct -- the clothing, or the knocking over?

Dmitriy asked:

Which wouldn't be correct -- the clothing, or the knocking over?

Having Francena in the office as a possible witness - although I might be able to bribe her with SOME of the textiles...

Good for you, I will certainly point new members of our reenactment group towards your site. I was going to suggest this actually, after seeing pics of that Giotto A-tunic I thoguht, "man, they are so close!"

As a possible future product line, I have a 9th century Frankish illumination showing chausses made out of two pieces rather than one, with seams up the sides of the leg. I'm not at all saying that two piece is more authentic for the Viking age (the Hedeby hose fragment is a one piece with the seam up the back), but it would be great to have the option

Anyway, good luck with this, and please post when this becomes a regular item on your site.

~Wil

Gwen:

Sure hope you'll have some of those in the "Big and Tall" sizes, too!

Gwen,

I'd definately be interested in some good Norman stuff. It's hard to find accurate soft kit, and I'm committed to doing 5th Century stuff with my own time, so purchasing Norman would be preferable.

I couldn't do it now, but I would hope for a future product line that would make me very happy

Tom

I will point my people in your direction. Is there a web site I could send them to?

With the overwhelming number of Early Period personas in Meridies you cold make a fortune here (in theory).

I'd love to get some Norman clothes from ya.

Heck get me some anglo saxon clothes and i'll play regia too.

Hi Gwen
You missed a good day at the the Armouries and me getting soaked as walked from the Pub to the car to drive home.
How was Pennsic?
Hi to Jeff.
Regia clothing, ummmmm!!!!!!!
We have now got Regia approved Helms so I will be able to point people in your direction at the Living History Fayre in October, so have as much stuff as you can bring. This will work well with our stalls being together.
Pauline has just booked us into Simon's for the 4 days, lovely!!!!!!!!!

Bye for now

Stephen

Murdock wrote:With the overwhelming number of Early Period personas in Meridies you cold make a fortune here (in theory).

I'd love to get some Norman clothes from ya.

Heck get me some anglo saxon clothes and i'll play regia too.

Not sure if you know this Murdock, but you don't have to portray an Anglo Saxon to play with Regia- any culture operating in England during their period is acceptable (Welsh, Scottish, Norse, Danish, Hiberno-Norse, Norman, Breton, Flemish, French... and, uh, English )

~Wil

So roughly what do you charge for "Regia Quality" tunics and trews?

What sorts of woven trimming does Regia accept?

I've been looking for woven trim to use for clavi and orbiculi on dalmatic or coptic tunics but have not been able to find bands of wool trim anywhere. Would you consider just stocking and reselling the trim?

I'm glad to see that you are spreading that HE goodness out to include those of us on the early end of the medieval dress-up spectrum!

Yikes! More interest here than I anticipated! In view of that, I'll just post a synopsis of questions and answers here instead of answering individually:

Thread count, interlacements, etc.
Honest answer here is 'Dunno'. Basically, I corresponded with the Regia folks for several months and finally just sent over a bunch of fabric swatches for vetting. Some were accepted by the current authenticity guy and some weren't. I honestly have not gotten into specifics such as thread count and interlacements, although we've gone over fabrication patterns and colours pretty thoroughly and I have swatches back from them as a guide. The gal who wove my trimmings is the major supplier of trim for Regia in the UK, and produced all the swatches for Hazel Uzzell's book. I'm depending on her to produce the correct patterns, and she seems to be pretty fair and upfront about what is known and what isn't. I'm no expert, so I'm depending on those who know more than me to guide me.

Size
My "One Size" tunics are geared to best fit a man 5' 10" to 6' tall with a 42" chest. Given the shape of this cut I'd expand that 'will fit' range to 5' 8" to 6' 2" tall with up to about a 48" chest. Tunics are approximately knee length at 45" long.

Construction particulars
Machine sewn long seams (side seams, armhole, sleeve). All seams hand finished for last 4" so machine work won't show if a hem flips up. Hand stitched hem. Trimming applied by hand.

Cost
Cost is approximate at this time and subject to change +/-
Wool with wool trim at neck and wrist: $215
Wool with wool trim at neck, wrist and hem: $250
Linen with wool trim at neck and wrist: $175
Linen with wool trim at neck, wrist and hem: $210
Wool trews: $75
Linen trews: $50
Custom/XL size- price to be determined based on specific requirements.

Availability
Given the interest level, I may just jump into limited production in average sizes. This means I could have garments available for sale in about a month's time.

Colours
If you're interested in this period, it may help you to know I'm sticking to what I do best, which is Joe Average@ stuff. You won't find any upper-crust blues or purples in my offerings, but you will see a good range of reds, rusts and russets, caramels, gold, cream, brown, greens, etc. as well as some 'straight off the sheep' grey/blacks. You're also going to see a good bit of woven patterns in the cloth I'm using; archaeological remains indicate that woven patterns appear to have been popular, and I feel woven patterns are under represented in reenactment clothing. Look for woven stripes, twills and warp/chevron patterns in single and 2 colours.

Photo
I don't currently have photos of the tunics and trews, all I can offer for the moment is that I'll use the same patterns and fabrication I used for the Frazier Museum interpreters. They've promised me photos of the outfits I made for them in action, unfortunately the photos have not yet been forthcoming. I'll get to work on some prototypes and hopefully will have photos to post by next week.

Nota bene
Like the rest of my clothing offerings, with this line I aim to offer well researched clothing of superior materials and fabrication. As with everything else I offer, I know the Regia clothing I produce won't be up to everyone's authenticity standards, won't fit everyone and won't be within everyone's means. I'm doing what I can to make sure it will pass the current UK standards, while doing what I can to keep the price down given the quality of materials used.

Hope this helps, and thanks for the interest!

Gwen
Black Swan Designs

Gwen:

Being a well-fed type with an ample waist, I'll be contacting you off-list about a custom item from this series.

PS: Hushgirl is still giving rave reviews (to anyone she corners long enough) over the Bocksten you sold us. If it weren't for you, we'd all look like farbs! Thanks!

O heck yeah there is interst!

The more you step out of the 14c and 15c and the earlier you go, you are going to open up a whole new market...

Btw, it was nice meeting you face to face at Pennsic.

And the new 13c braises were awesome, awesome, awesome!!!

I love dealing with you guys! You are pros!!!

Yes, Precious, we wants the Noman stuff....we needs it. Gives us the Norman garb, Precious....anything besides that 14th century stuff...oh how we hates it, Precious...

Pretty please? *blink blink*

The Fourteenth Century Mafia has pretty much the corner market here in Atlantia.....bring power to the Peoples who suffer the O-P-PRESSION!

Seriously though, I would love to see some earlier stuff. I bought a wool hood from you all this year and I positively adore it. I just wish it wasnt 200 years to late for me.

Pax
Melisent

A 12 C. Norman woman's bliaut like the Chardes (?sp?) Cathedral statues would be awesome, although I was going to contact you about special-ordering such an outfit anyway once I recover financially from this move.

The new rev of Gale Owens Crocker's book will be out later this year...

The new rev of Gale Owens Crocker's book will be out later this year...

I thought I saw a copy at Windrose Armoury's booth at Pennsic - are you sure it isn't out already? I'll email John V and ask.

T-Bob, do you mean the red G39 gown for Hushgirl? I don't remember you guys buying a Bocksten tunic.

Not offering products from a wide range of periods isn't because we're parsimonious, elitist or snobby- I offer clothing in the periods I know the most about so I can say "this is right" with reasonable degree of confidence. It actually matters to me that the goods I sell are historically accurate, and that I'm able to give clients good information when they ask me questions and not just tell anyone anything to make a sale. When I step outside my area of 'expertise' (such as it is), my knowledge decreases and I run a greater risk of making a mistake, inadvertently misleading with bad information or setting myself up as an object of public ridicule by people who know more than me. This is why it took me a full 3 months to research the Regia stuff- I had to find people I trusted to give me good info, then wait for them to give me that info in their own time. Even so, I'm depending on what they're telling me is correct to *be* correct. You all have seen me have my head handed to me on a plate by "experts" bound to make me look stupid, so putting myself at greater risk in a period I know little about is always scarey for me.

I'm one of the very few suppliers who keeps in personal contact with my client base by posting on these boards. I do so because I want to know what products you want, what you think of our service and how the products we offer hold up with use. God knows I hold my breath every time I post something, waiting for someone with an agenda to wade in with a bomb to lob... Even so, I take that risk and stay accessible to you all because your comments help us develop new products and keep us aware of products which are not living up to expectations.

Gwen

This is great news. I've been kicking around the idea of trying to join Regia for some time. Still need to finish up my 14th cent harness, but after that , Jan. or Feb. hopefully, I'll be ready to take the plunge.A Saxon Impression is quite appealing. A nice set of clothes,shield, spear,and your ready to go.My rotten back says an early "light weight" impression sounds reaaal goood...Otto

The demand would mostly be form men's costumes, I would assume. Periods and cultures of greatest interest seem to be Norse (Vikings) and Anglo-Saxon/Norman for the Norman Conquest/Battle of Hastings era.
It might be a neat idea to offer different finishing options beside hand-finished visible seams. These seams could be left raw, for home finishing, or machine finished for those for whom it might not matter.
There's also a need for historically accurate knives and gambesons.

In a word yes.

Erika is ever so pleased with all the things we got from you this summer and we are thankful for your patience and good graces when dealing with our fretting and worrying.

Regia seems to be growing here in New England and once we are settled in our new house having some top notch gear would accellerate our participation.

Generalizations always miss someone, but in my experience if someone has enough sewing to finish seams they generally can build the garment from scratch, and do. Conversely, if someone is going to be happy with machine applied trim, they probably don't care that it was hand woven, and won't want to pay the price for it. The goal was to make these to a Regia UK standard; Regia UK wants hand finishing, so that's what I'm offering.

I was just looking over the material last night and from the available tunic options I've settled on a variant of the Skjoldehamn cut. Trews will be either Regia generic or Thorsberg.

I've been mulling over the aketon question for over a year (just ask carlyle!) and may tackle it at some point. I need to get the 15th C. arming doublet and CoB wrapped up first. We've received the first shipment of flat ring/wedge rivetted maille voiders and collars in, so the 15th C. coats are within throwing distance of being available. CoB is ready for grading, so we're moving forward!

Thanks for the interest!

Gwen

"There's also a need for historically accurate knives and gambesons." And belt fittings and a seax.Hee hee we could keep you guys busy for years..Otto PS Gwen ,you realize of course that the more research you do, the more you'll be lured to the want to play in "dark" side LOL

We've received the first shipment of flat ring/wedge rivetted maille voiders and collars in, so the 15th C. coats are within throwing distance of being available. CoB is ready for grading, so we're moving forward!

Thanks for the interest!

Gwen OHHH, Ohhh , voiders and collars. That will fill a void! Will they be available seperately? Thanks for this bit good news! Come to think of it, I need a 15th cent coat anyway. Others may be interested in gussets and collars. sorry If I'm a lil incoherent just got back from the hospital, for back work,sedatives slowly wearing off...Otto

Gwen, whats CoB ?...Otto

LOL- yes, the voiders, collars and skirts are available without the coat.

We have 4 sets of voiders, 2 collars and 3 skirts right now with more to come. Price is:

Set of voiders (left/right): $225/pr.
Collar: $75
Skirt: $245
Total for the set: $545 (4 pieces)

CoB = Charles of Blois [pourpoint]

Research will keep me busy for the rest of my life in any case, and will provide far more items than I will be able to produce in my working life. I like to think of it as job security. As for "playing on the dark side".....not a chance. I'm afraid my interest in that period is purely academic!

Gwen

"The Fourteenth Century Mafia has pretty much the corner market here in Atlantia.....bring power to the Peoples who suffer the O-P-PRESSION!"

Send some of dat Mafia down this way! It'd be geat to see more people doing actual medieval personas in a medieval org.

Early period to Meridians must be neanderthals, we apparently are under the impression that the Hoplites and Centurians are "medieval".


Home sweet home,
Land of the Romanized genri-celts...

and 20 medieval personas

Real nice folk, if only we could get them in real armour.

Gwen , When will we see some pics of the mail? Does the collar come with any kind of leather or canvas stiffener? Thanks in advance.And Murdoch, I'm hoping to play at the tourny in November! May not play long, but hopefully I'll get in acouple of bouts. Soooo, hopefully,Youll get at least one more armoured guy,for a few minutes anyhow...Otto

We can post a scan of the weave tonight, but won't be able to have pics of the maille on a body until next week. Today is our first day back in the office after having been gone and we're a bit buried.

All the maille comes unmounted, ready to use as desired.

We also have a flat ring maille hauberk- below knee length, vented front and back, long sleeve and tailored in both body and sleeves (skirt flares, sleeves are tapered to wrist). Weight is approx 34#. All the maille is 8mm ID rings, oil blackened for rust prevention - $1,140

This maille is not the same as what is being offered by either von Sussen or Forth Armoury. This maille is being made for Get Dressed for Battle (UK) in a factory dedicated to maille production, and we are the exclusive US distributor. GDFB are the same folks who supplied the maille for the Ridley Scott movie "Crusade".

Gwen

Black Swan Designs wrote:T-Bob, do you mean the red G39 gown for Hushgirl? I don't remember you guys buying a Bocksten tunic.

You're correct, Gwen---it's the pain meds....

Black Swan Designs wrote:Not offering products from a wide range of periods isn't because we're parsimonious, elitist or snobby- I offer clothing in the periods I know the most about so I can say "this is right" with reasonable degree of confidence. It actually matters to me that the goods I sell are historically accurate, and that I'm able to give clients good information when they ask me questions and not just tell anyone anything to make a sale. When I step outside my area of 'expertise' (such as it is), my knowledge decreases and I run a greater risk of making a mistake, inadvertently misleading with bad information or setting myself up as an object of public ridicule by people who know more than me. This is why it took me a full 3 months to research the Regia stuff- I had to find people I trusted to give me good info, then wait for them to give me that info in their own time. Even so, I'm depending on what they're telling me is correct to *be* correct. You all have seen me have my head handed to me on a plate by "experts" bound to make me look stupid, so putting myself at greater risk in a period I know little about is always scarey for me.

I'm one of the very few suppliers who keeps in personal contact with my client base by posting on these boards. I do so because I want to know what products you want, what you think of our service and how the products we offer hold up with use. God knows I hold my breath every time I post something, waiting for someone with an agenda to wade in with a bomb to lob... Even so, I take that risk and stay accessible to you all because your comments help us develop new products and keep us aware of products which are not living up to expectations.

Intellectual integrity is laudable, Gwen....especially in your business.

One of the things I appreciate is that HE will withdraw a popular item from their inventory when further research shows that the item isn't exactly "right". I know of other sellers that will continue to sell the item because it is popular, whether it's correct or not.

You flatter me Bob- I only *wish* that every single thing we sold was 100% perfect! We are weeding through the catalog, however, and continue to remove inauthentic things as we can. The latest to go were the LARP hose (which disappeared without a trace), but I took some heat at Pennsic for discontinuing the cotton St. Louis gowns, let me tell you!

Gwen