The Armour Archive

Hi all,

What wool would suitable for a houpplande? Gabardine? Twill? "suiting"? I doing a full length one with dagged open sleeves a la Duc de Berry. I don't want it to be too heavy.

Also, anyone know a source to get it in bulk (40 yds+) for a good price?

40+ yards?! I know you're a tall guy, but really...
I think simple wool twills were the most common weave found in the 14th and 15th century London finds. There was quite a variety of weaves, and certainly the weight could vary.

If you are looking to dag the edges then go for something well felted so that it doesn't fray. Otherwise you will have to line and "bag-out" all your dagging which adds weight. Wool that is felted well enough doesn't fray if you keep most cuts on the bias (diagonal to the thread direction). I made a slashed wool doublet about 7 years ago and it gets worn most weekends and hasn't frayed.
As far as the weave is concerned the simpler weaves fray less than the more complex ones.

Maredudd

also woolen prepped, woolen spun wools full more than worsted prep, worsted spun.

If you want to full yours more do it *before* you cut out your pieces as it will result in shrinkage. Do not use "washable wools" as they are treated to not full.

Thomas

...

You want worsted wools if you don't want to full them then. Try http://www.fashionfabricsclub.com/

Gabardine is good if you don't mind the shine which is a modern finish. I would stay away from suiting it has a much different feel to it.

Even a short houppeland, with all the pleats, is very warm when worn indoors, at Feast or Court. You might favour the lightest-weight wool that you feel you can get away with. Otherwise, you just won't wear the thing except for outdoor events in the cooler months.
As far as dancing in a houppeland goes, stick to the more stately pavanes.

Parlan - What are you planning to wear for an undertunic, under the houppeland? There doesn't seem to be much documentation for how they look.