Much agreed w/ Guy regarding websites as good resources for the garments you're looking for. The
Atlantian A&S Links include sections for
braies,
chausses,
14th century clothing,
15th century clothing,
hoods, and
men's medieval headwear. (A
St. Louis shirt will work under a cote, as long as the shirt is shorter than the cote.)
Thursfield's
Medieval Tailor's Assistant is of great assistance in terms of wrapping your brain around construction for most of the garments you're looking for.
If you absolutely
need paper patterns, check out
La Fleur de Lyse's Medieval Accessories pattern (includes patterns for a hood, braies, and instructions for fitted chausses). For my cotes & fitted gowns, I use a template that started out life as the torso & sleeve of
a now out-of-print Simplicity pattern; Gruff seems to be most comfortable in the cotes made for him based on the
Period Patterns pattern.
Edited to add some comments on houppelandes, since I seem to be doing a lot of 'em lately ...
I tend to go in various directions to get the look I want on a houppelande. Gruff's last houppelande, based to some extent on illustrations at
http://www.maisonstclaire.org/resources/skin_out/menswear/menswear_houpellandes_small.html, used a high collar from
Medieval Tailor's Assistant, sleeves from
http://www.virtue.to/articles/bag_sleeve.html, and a body that was sketched out to fit the two (and be as full as possible for the amount of brocade we had). Around the same time, I was working on a brocade gown of a similar era for myself, to be based on a young woman in
the April illustration of the Tres Riches Heures du Duc de Berry; the upper torso came from the kirtle from
Costume Connection's 14th Century Woman, the sleeve from Hunnisett's
Period Costume for Stage & Screen. The dress I'm in the middle of right now, which'll resemble
a lady from the Tacuinum Sanitatis, uses the Simplicity template for the upper torso, and a modified version of the aforementioned bag sleeve.
There is no universal authentic look for all houppelandes (or cotes, etc.) Four houppelandes, I usually pick a reasonably realistic illustration that I want to replicate, and figure out what elements it'll need to have in order to
get that look -- whether those elements are based on garment finds & artifacts, from modern costume-books or patterns, or just from trial & error -- and bodge it together based on that.
, but here's a list of commercial patterns that *supposedly* can be used to make somewhat medieval-looking fitted gowns for women. (Is that enough damning with faint praise?)
