LONG reply: trying to answer you as thoroughly as I can.
bairdec wrote:While I'm on the subject of references, is there a good book on soft kits for early 14th century Hungary?
See previous post. Some costume and clothing work has definitely been done... but I can't cite you one off the top of my head. I'll bug my wife, b/c she'd have it in her dissertation.
bairdec wrote:I'm under the impression that they were wearing the "international" style tunics and such. I'm hoping the clothing shown in the Illuminated Chronicle is close to what was worn, although it's about 40-50 years after the time period I'm aiming for.
You can get quite close with the Illuminated Chronicle. Short answer: it depends on what military role the person in question is performing. The Kossegi "barons" (aka, the Heder clan) were essentially performing a function similar to a border baron, and made lots of not-friends... but they had just as many gentry serving as lighter cavalry as they did serving as heavy. (In fact, though I have to look it up, somewhere around here I have a chronicle reference not far off your time period, for some Imperials getting their asses stomped b/c they wouldn't listen to the Austrians when they said "don't underestimate these guys just b/c they're not in heavy harness.") So... for heavy cavalry/"knightly," you can see absolutely typical "western gear," what the Austrians and Hungarians would call the "equipped to fight in the Swabian manner" (mail, cuirie/armored surcoat, great helm, add some leather or composite-matieral limb defenses as you want them) for the very early 14c. For clothing, soldiers in Central Europe show a distinct preference for boots, rather than low shoes. We have some suppositions that trousers were as common as hose were, but this gets dicey, b/c the dolman and caftan come so low that it's hard to tell which is which. One thing we DO know, from some artwork I can cite later, is that in at least one case the hose seem to point to the front, rather than the side, of the braies, and it's been suggested a couple times that individuals may have brought the hose up INSIDE the braies, rather than to the outside -- it doesn't let you roll them down as is popular to the west, but it gives a more trouserlike feel.
Also, remember from your Engel, that Hungary does "multiculturalism" before it got fashionable, and many Hungarians are ethnically German (Saxon, Swabian, etc) or Slavic, living in communities of same, and wearing their traditional clothing. And if you're close to one of the courts, a.k.a., a person who could care about fashion, simply having the international style might be valuable on its own terms. So Hungary is "international" all by itself, and that's before we get anywhere near Croatia, Dalmatia, etcetera. Now, I'm dressed for fairly hot weather here, so I didn't bring a wool hood or a heavier caftan, etcetera. But, essentially, if you can find a given clothing in the HRE (including Adriatic Italy), Poland, the northern and western balkans, and even, here and there, across the Carpathians into Ruthenia, etc., chances are there's somebody in the Kingdom of Hungary wearing it.
Oh again. Also, 14c Hungary had had an excellent economy (strong enough to let Louis plant a large expeditionary army into Naples, with no land border and beyond the territory of enemy Venice. We're talking huge costs here -- imagine if Edward III had been able to pursue his war without having to spend 3/4 of his time worrying about whether the wool trade would actually finance it!) and no sumptuary codes that we know of. While we're not sure about peasants entirely, we know that the non-noble classes dressed well and in styles not too dissimilar from their social betters (although usually less elaborated and less up-to-date for a number of obvious reasons).
bairdec wrote:About the Karacsonyfalva Wall-Painting you have on Picasa- what time frame is that from?
Dead on for what you want -- early 14c. Note that if you're playing SCA you'll have to find a way to hide your elbows, or use the ahistorical bazuband pattern with the extra protection.
bairdec wrote:I don't know how the caftans were used, and I don't think szurs were in use yet. I thought I saw you mention on a thread that you were using the caftan as a sort of arming coat, worn outside of the mail.
Earlier caftans tended to run down the center. What we have left of images running from Cumans all the way into the steppe shows a center seam for heavy leather caftans and such garments. For regular clothing, the diagonal wrap, as pictured in the kit, is the norm.
"Szur" means "fur" in Hungarian. I'm not sure what you mean, precisely. Probably I'm having a brain fart and forgetting some 16th-century stuff (or, at least stuff that's documented from then). We don't have documentation for sheepskin caftans in art yet except being worn by Wallachians... but it's very likely to have been the case much earlier, though such would definitely be quite a ways down the social ladder towards common soldiers and peasants (we're hamstrung by our loss of sources due to the Ottoman occupation, sadly... also note that archaeology suggests that peasants in Hungary were well-armed compared to their W. Euro contemporaries). I have no evidence to suggest that an "arming caftan" would have included points for heavy harness... though it seems a fairly obvious conjecture begging to get slapped down. I have, however, established two separate distinct uses of leather caftans worn... one, a light-weight, overlapping garment worn over mail, and another, a very thick garment apparently worn all by itself made of soft leather... likely anywhere from a half to 3/4 of an inch thick. No non-Cuman pictorial sources that I've hunted down, sadly, but the earlier examples all had a distince center seam, and ran down to around knee length. The length, at least, is supported via M. Villani.
bairdec wrote:The kit you have here, is it intended to be a Cuman outfit?
Hungarian. The helm is a fairly typical light-cavalry trick (would go under the hat). This persona is a Szekely in the service of Istvan Lackfi not long after the battle of Melito, so he's got gear with much more steppe influence. He could easily be wearing clothing very similar to what the other folks at CiT were, with very minor features. The boots would be closer to a turnshoe pattern even if they had a higher upper.
I am distinctly in the camp that thinks that reconstructions should have significant temporal conservatism to them unless the persona is somebody who would have been spot on the cutting edge of fashion, or in the retinue of somebody whose position would mandate giving gifts of clothing to said retinue for special social occasions such as marriages, births, etcetera. After all, even today you can walk around seeing 20-25 years of style playing out, and we're much more inclined to pitch stuff out, in an era where goods are cheap and labor scarce, than people would be under precisely the opposite economic conditions, particularly given the habit of giving away older clothes/gear as a form of largesse.
Also, something you should know, is that over the last decade or so, the idea that Hungarians overwhelmingly adopt heavy-cavalry gear, while leaving light-cav roles to the auxiliary nations, like a Carpathian version of the Roman Empire stereotypes, has been completely and thoroughly debunked. Instead, we're seeing that some serve as heavy, some light, and that service as light cavalry seems to be often preferred to service as heavy for reasons of mobility.
Note also that the Heder clan had a LOT of Cumans working for them/settled with them.
bairdec wrote:And I'm still thinking about how to do the shield- only about three more months before I go on mid-tour leave and I can play around a bit.
It's on my project list as well. The common documented shield wood is aspen, and they're relatively thick (some surviving hussar shields, not far at all from patterns shown in the Illuminated Chronicle, are an inch thick). Check the wallpainting -- those are some THICK shields. That's possibly counter-intuitive, but my experience in la canne, (they also pay attention to power generation... I've
shattered-not-broken hardwood canes on heavy bags) was that a lightweight but overthick dowel was actually longer-lasting than a thinner, harder wood, so it seems to work. I intend to make an oval to start with, as it'll be easier than the compound forms -- I'm terrible at woodwork AND I've never made any shields before except small bucklers, usually in rawhide. When you get to that stage, pls. coordinate with me if you can.
bairdec wrote:Aaaand one last question for tonight- I can never bring up the scholarsvoices.com website listed in your profile. Is that still up?
It was a nice idea, and then Google scholar came out and made it worthless. So the business model is dead.