1380'ish Italian vambraces

This forum is designed to help us spread the knowledge of armouring.
Post Reply
User avatar
James C
Archive Member
Posts: 504
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2001 1:01 am
Location: Little Rock AR

1380'ish Italian vambraces

Post by James C »

How does one achieve the tulip shape on the vambraces? I tried to make one this weekend but it seems my attempts were too amatureish at best. Does most of the shape come from the pattern of the steel or more to do with the raising?

Here is what I did. The un-formed metal piece for both sides (vambrace cap and bottom) where trapizodial in shape. I shallowly dished the back piece (towards the elbow) of each. Then tried to shrink the rest of the metal towards the wrist. But it didn't quite work out.

Are there any tips out there for this? What type of hammer, which stake, etc...
Pedro Ramirez
Archive Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Winnipeg

Post by Pedro Ramirez »

Have you tried stretching them? I use a cross pein or a raising hammer and hammer along the inside of the vambrace near the wrist end. In a while the metal stretches out and away from the hammer, giving it a nice tulipped shape. Then grinding takes care of the irregularites. Finish by turning the edge.
Hope this helps.
User avatar
James C
Archive Member
Posts: 504
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2001 1:01 am
Location: Little Rock AR

Post by James C »

[img]http://home.armourarchive.org/members/jamesc/Vambrace/IMAG0132.JPG[/img]

[img]http://home.armourarchive.org/members/jamesc/Vambrace/IMAG0135.JPG[/img]

Two pics of the vambrace in question. It doesn't look quite right.

Pedro: what kind of stake are you using to stretch them?
Pedro Ramirez
Archive Member
Posts: 367
Joined: Thu Jul 31, 2003 1:01 am
Location: Winnipeg

Post by Pedro Ramirez »

Actually it looks quite nice to me. Sometimes subtle is good too.
I don't use a stake. I use the flat of my bichorn and then the rounded part when I get to the point where the stretching needs to have a more rounded shape.
Most of the work is done on the inside. If it helps you can add about 1/4" of metal to your pattern. Then when the shape is to your liking, you cut or grind till the edge is straight.
User avatar
James C
Archive Member
Posts: 504
Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2001 1:01 am
Location: Little Rock AR

Post by James C »

So let me get this straight. You work from the inside?!?! Are you calling the inside the side that faces your arm or the side that faces everyone?

All the work on that one has been on the side that faces everyone. If you are talking about the side towards the arm how do you get a cross pien in there without totally distorting the 'U' shape?
User avatar
Gaston de Clermont
Archive Member
Posts: 3369
Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2002 2:01 am
Location: Austin, Texas USA
Contact:

Post by Gaston de Clermont »

I've had some trouble getting the cross pien method to work cleanly. What did work for me was this- on a curved stake (shaped like your forearm) put the vambrace on it like the stake is wearing it, then pick the elbow end up a little. Pound down (from the outside) a few inches from the cuff to get the end to flare. It takes many passes, and a moderately domed hammer, maybe a raising hammer might work best for you. Pleinishing such a complex saddle shaped curve is a little tricky, so you might want to make a form for it.

The final result is amazingly strong, so you can probably get away with grinding down some of the more subtle bumps.
Post Reply