So I'm working on a bascinet with a klapp visor, and I'm at the part where I'm raising the oculars. Most of the rough forming is done, but my question is this: How do I go about sharpening the indented area right in between the eyes? Also, how do I make a crisp edge all around the occulars, where they meet the body of the visor?
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Tableau on Fri Jan 08, 2010 1:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
While I have no idea how to do what you are asking, I am pretty sure there was a discussion about this a number of months ago. I think it was discussed betwen MattMaus and MadMatt about whether welding and grinding, or just punching with a chisel was better. Do some searching and you may find it.
(I am not sure about the people involved or the length of time ago it was.)
I would suggest making the occulars a little deeper. Then work the outside over a square stake like one would clean op a crease. The lower 'inside' corners I planish from the inside out over my anvil corner.
Also from the picture I would dish a bit deeper at the nose area. Also I would have slightly slanted the occulars instead of having them straight across. See attachment.
I use the sharp edges of a stake or anvil, hammer from the inside against the flat it to sharpen up the sides and then hammer from the outside over the edge to get the corners/ angles.
I would be tempted to make the slot slightly thinner (or extend the raised areas either side of it) they could be a little more pronounced IMHO.
Damn, I wish I had read that advice earlier. I already cut out the eyes. Oh well.
Anyway, here are pictures of the finished visor. The helm is almost done. I just need to finish the hinge attachment and as verveilles and an aventail. And a liner and chin strap, of course.
Jon Terris wrote:I use the sharp edges of a stake or anvil, hammer from the inside against the flat it to sharpen up the sides and then hammer from the outside over the edge to get the corners/ angles.
Looks good though,
JonT
I would recomend this technique as well. Be certain that the anvil face (or generally a horn with 2 good edged) is as smooth as you would keep your hammer faces... but the answer is irrelevant as you have already gone past this point. Looks pretty good.