1320s martial surcotte - what I've been exploring

[Tailoress]

Hiya folks,

I have a thread in Classifieds showing a style of martial surcotte I've been experimenting with. I'm selling the one in the pictures and want to make more of similar varieties and ranging anywhere from the late 13thc to 1350 or so. I thought I'd cross-post about it here, since it's "interpretive recreation" if ever there is such a thing.

Here's the link to the thread, which contains info about the garment itself.

1320s Martial Surcottes for Sale

And, here are the pictures:







Things I'll do differently next time:
More fabric. I'll cut the body much more generously. I'm not sure I like how the turned-out slits look. Jury still out on that. May give that up. I want to make a more pronounced curve to the armholes.

Things I'd like to try:

- Making one entirely from silk, no linen. I want to see the glorious drape.
- Appliquing badges, whether personal heraldry or livery.
- Making the "mullet" or "cyclas" style -- short in front, long in back.

Thoughts?
-Tasha

[Charlotte J]

Spiff!

As for the turned out slits, could you leave the extra fabric in there, but then not tack them down? I like the idea of having that bit that can flap open naturally, but I've always seen that as depicting a natural fall of the fabric.

[Tailoress]

As for the turned out slits, could you leave the extra fabric in there, but then not tack them down? I like the idea of having that bit that can flap open naturally, but I've always seen that as depicting a natural fall of the fabric.

That was indeed the intention, but it just wouldn't behave! It's easy enough to un-tack it down, certainly... I just wanted to tack it down to 'train' it, as it were. We'll see..

[Galvyn Lockhart]

Can't wait to see your version of a "mullet."

[Owyn]

As for the turned out slits, could you leave the extra fabric in there, but then not tack them down? I like the idea of having that bit that can flap open naturally, but I've always seen that as depicting a natural fall of the fabric.

That was indeed the intention, but it just wouldn't behave! It's easy enough to un-tack it down, certainly... I just wanted to tack it down to 'train' it, as it were. We'll see..

What about using more cloth for the internal layer than for the external? With more cloth in the liner, wouldn't it just turn out naturally? Maybe not...not sure.

These are beautiful, though! Love the work.

[Tailoress]

Can't wait to see your version of a "mullet."

As Lucian so quaintly put it the other day, "Business in the front, party in the rear!"

[Tailoress]

What about using more cloth for the internal layer than for the external? With more cloth in the liner, wouldn't it just turn out naturally? Maybe not...not sure.

These are beautiful, though! Love the work.

Thank you, Owyn. Your idea is kinda neat, but the only problem would be that the lining would not be able to attach to the outer fabric all the way around. But still, I like the way you're thinking.

[Amanda M]

Just out of curiosity what sort of silk would you use?

[Tailoress]

Right now I have access to a nice, bright heraldic red silk broadcloth (tightly woven, brushed/matte plain weave) and also a shinier silk twill that's a little richer and darker in both red and dark blue.

In general terms I'd stick with silk broadcloth and silk twill (as long as there's not a ton of lustre). I'd avoid anything going under the name of "noile" or "raw". Another excellent choice would be a hemp/silk blend like this, but it requires dyeing, which I don't do.

-Tasha

[Lucian Ro]

As Lucian so quaintly put it the other day, "Business in the front, party in the rear!"

We really do need a "whistling innocently" icon, JT.

[Galvyn Lockhart]

Can't wait to see your version of a "mullet."

As Lucian so quaintly put it the other day, "Business in the front, party in the rear!"

I knew I shoulda copyrighted that style after 100 Minutes.

[Tailoress]

Can't wait to see your version of a "mullet."

As Lucian so quaintly put it the other day, "Business in the front, party in the rear!"

I knew I shoulda copyrighted that style after 100 Minutes.

Dude, you can't copyright historical awesomeness! You just gotta lead the pack and say, "yeah.... I was wearing The Mullet before anyone else caught on..."

[sha-ul]

As Lucian so quaintly put it the other day, "Business in the front, party in the rear!"

We really do need a "whistling innocently" icon, JT.

[Galvyn Lockhart]

Can't wait to see your version of a "mullet."

As Lucian so quaintly put it the other day, "Business in the front, party in the rear!"

I knew I shoulda copyrighted that style after 100 Minutes.

Dude, you can't copyright historical awesomeness! You just gotta lead the pack and say, "yeah.... I was wearing The Mullet before anyone else caught on..."

Proud wearer of a mullet since 2008. It only took me a year to realize why it was so awesome though. "business in the front, party in the back."

[Amanda M]

Right now I have access to a nice, bright heraldic red silk broadcloth (tightly woven, brushed/matte plain weave) and also a shinier silk twill that's a little richer and darker in both red and dark blue.

In general terms I'd stick with silk broadcloth and silk twill (as long as there's not a ton of lustre). I'd avoid anything going under the name of "noile" or "raw". Another excellent choice would be a hemp/silk blend like this, but it requires dyeing, which I don't do.

-Tasha

I was just mulling over the dying part since I dye silk to make banners all the time.