I altered my cuff pattern and got the hourglass shape a lot better this time. And the articulation is better as I tried using sliding rivets.
One thing that didn't work out too well was the scallops that Pitbull recommended. I tried them out, but I don't think I had them in the right place and they weren't working right, so I cut them off and just went with the straight cuff. I'll definitely adjust my pattern and try again with this in the future.
You could try looking at some historical examples. They will give you a better idea of not only shape but function as well. 14th c gauntlets (except for wisby) don't have any articulation. They rely on the shape of the cuff to give you the movement.
This will also reduce the gaps that you have. A good pair of gauntlets feel like you are just wearing a leather glove.
Looks like a good start. I would agree with EK in that that pattern looks like the cuff and hand protection could be hard riveted and still have enough cuff travel to protect without the large opening on the inside of the wrist seen in pic 3. You would be surprised what can get tangled up in there.
Your palm strap will not last long overlapping the aluminum. Holding the sword and taking blows will force the leather into the leather and cut it in short order. When that happens replace the straps with ones that are mounted underneath the aluminum. Or consider relocation. My pattern uses a different location for that strap- on the outer side of the plate under the thumb. That way it runs from side to side and stays out of the way of the sword.
Could you throw a picture of that on here so I can see exactly where you place it?
I totally agree that the strap will eventually be cut through. The one I modeled these after has the strap in that spot though, so that's where I put it. It was a hand me down that I've had for three years now, and the strap was cut halfway through when I got it. Though I haven't had to replace it yet, as it's still only about halfway through. I do keep extra straps with me though just in case.
You could also move the strap to being riveted under the plate rather than over. This would keep the strap in the same location with out the cutting action of the rattan/plate contact.
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing." (Edmund Burke)
I agree with the previous comments. However if your going to stick with the 3 piece design, I am curious if your rivets are going to be left extra long to achieve the articulation? If you tighten the temporary screws until they are near snug, do the gaunts still move the same? or are they relying on the extra space between the screw cap and nut?
If so, you want to be careful not too rely too much on extra long rivets to gain articulation. It can be dangerous, I have seen some "cheater" articulation done to the point where the inside rivet was poking through 3/8" of blue foam. With subtle changes in shape and rivet placement, you can still get great movement with snug rivets.
Keep it up, those look great!
O'Quinn
Chivalry is not a weekend hobby, it is a way of life
Eamonn wrote:Could you throw a picture of that on here so I can see exactly where you place it?
I totally agree that the strap will eventually be cut through. The one I modeled these after has the strap in that spot though, so that's where I put it. It was a hand me down that I've had for three years now, and the strap was cut halfway through when I got it. Though I haven't had to replace it yet, as it's still only about halfway through. I do keep extra straps with me though just in case.
I'll do that when I get home. Actually what I can show you are the holes for the strap. My demi's fit so tightly into my basket hilts that I removed the straps last time I regloved.
Godric: you are right on placing the strap under. Some folks do not like having the strap between them and the sword hilt. Placed where it is- it is in the middle of the grasp of the sword.
Hi Eamonn. Looking good and great advice so far. I like the way your keep building the same piece over and making improvements. Try making the wrist plate a little wider and move the articulation hinge points farther apart. This will help you achieve what Lord O Quinn was talking about and also give your wrist more coverage. Reduce your cuff opening, and keep up the good work.
Pitbull" Thanks. I've been making other things too, but these are what's troubling me still. I'm working up to making a set of these in stainless to replace the mild steel demi I have now. Trying to get my kit to be more uniform as far as materials go. So I want to get as good as I can with the aluminum and take what I learn to the more difficult medium.
Johann, Lord O'Quinn, Godric and EK: Thanks for the advice as well. I'll keep it all in mind on the next attempt.
replace the straps with ones that are mounted underneath the aluminum. Or consider relocation. My pattern uses a different location for that strap- on the outer side of the plate under the thumb. That way it runs from side to side and stays out of the way of the sword.
My demi's fit so tightly into my basket hilts that I removed the straps last time I regloved.
