T-Stake - design questions

[Martin Hodges]

Hey guys,
I'm in need of a T-stake for a sculpture I'm working on, but I thought I'd pick your brains. First, I was reading TOMAR and if I remember correctly, it said a good length for at T-stake was 14-15 inches. And of course now I don't have access to my copy of it, but by "14-15" would that be the overall length of the "T" or would each arm be 14-15", thus making the overall stake 28-30"?

Second, it would seem that ideally the stake would be made from one single piece of metal. however, such a method is beyond my means and would be cost prohibitive. My idea was to weld a T-stake using 1.25" x 2" bar stock for the top piece and a 1" square bar stock for the vertical piece. then add 1/4" plate (or thicker if necessary) in the inside corner for support (see attached diagram). Will this design hold up to wear and tear of hammering? The majority of my work is hammering 22 gauge mild sheet steel. At times I am working with 16 gauge, but mostly 22 gauge.

So, is a welded t-stake an acceptable form of construction, or are all proper t-stakes one piece cast stakes? If t-stakes can be made from welded pieces, are the sizes that I'm using large enough? The size of the 1" square vertical piece was based on my intent to use the t-stake in the hardie hole of the anvil since I do not have a stake plate.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Martin H.

[Sean Powell]

Welded construction is perfectly adequate for construction if the welds are good and deep. Prep the plate by chamfering the edges 1/4-1/3 the plate thickness and then filling with weld before layering on top.

Stake size depends entirely on what you are doing with it. For a cylindrical stake I would favor something about as long as a cuise so I could work the majority (or entierity) of the length without switching sides or contorting my body. If you plan on raising a helmet then it only needs to be slightly longer then half the starting diameter of the initial plate. Something in the 12-15" range per arm seems reasonable to me. Remember that you can always cut it down but really can't add length after the fact.

Also, for moving 22ga you could damn near move it over a decent hardwood if it were cold (or even hot just not repeatedly). Consider pulling a Halbered and welding it up from thick-wall pipe instead of solid roundstock. You can always fill with concrete if necessary.

You might start a 'show me your stakes' thread and see what other people are using for a similar purpose.

Luck!
Sean

[Frederich Von Teufel]

The stake you've proposed will hold up very well to the use you've described. Cast steel is not better than welded stock (nor vice versa, for that matter. It totally depends upon what you would be using the stake for.)

A length of 10"-16" for overall length of the top peice is sufficient for all except the largest of peices (I have a couple of 30"+ stakes for things like full leg harnesses and such.) If you have a stake plate that this stake will be mounted into then I might recommend a 1 1/4" stake shank to more properly fit the holes, but that really would depend upon which brand stake plate you are using; since you'll be using the hardy hole in your anvil, whatever shank size properly fits the hole is best. I will recommend that you weld a collar on the stake shank so that removing the stake from the hardy hole doesn't become a nightmare.

[Keegan Ingrassia]

Funny; I've been spending the last couple days grinding and welding up stakes for myself...I'll make sure and take some pictures.

[Martin Hodges]

Thanks a lot guys! I just wanted to make sure I was going in the right direction before I started! So I guess I would then ask, "are the 1/4" plates bracing the stake underneath necessary or overkill?

Frederich, good call on the collar. I have a large stake fashioned from one of the "bells" from a 25lb dumbbell, and it has no collar, and yes, it is indeed a pain to get out of the hardie hole everytime i need to switch stakes.

Martin


P.S. so you have an idea of what I'm making, this is good example of my work: http://mhodges.deviantart.com/gallery/ ...my armour making days are on hold right now in lieu of the nude figure sculptures.

[Halberds]

I think your stake sounds fine.
I like the idea of the gussets you mentioned.
I use them also... as seen in this pic.



Hal

PS: Very nice metal sculptures on your art page.
Jolly well done.

[Pitbull Armory]

Hi. Ive seen nice T stakes with a short section of RR track for the top piece, a saddle shape ground in the top about 3-4 inches from the tip, and the lower section of the track foot blown off with a torch.

In my experience, a stake that isnt a pain in the @%& to remove, is too loose. Almost every stake I have has a different taper or shank on them so stake plates are not much use for me, If I do need to remove a stake from a hardy hole, it usually takes a drift from the bottom side.

Post pics of your T stake when you get it going if you get time.


Take care

Andy @ Pitbull Armory