quite a reasonable amount of detail of heraldry is on it, much as mine will have. What is the best materials to put detailed heraldry on your shield (paint types, etc) and what matrial is it best to put it on (canvas, leather, etc).
I worked out as mine is quite detailed I would print it out on some material transfer paper and iron it on to the shield - comes out good only it looks like a transfer on a shield
I could paint it on but not sure if it is really worth the efort to only get the crap bashed out of it.
Suggestions on what others have done most welcome.
I have had pretty good luck using a canvas cover glued and painted onto a plywood blank. It made for a very good painting surface. I used exterior latex paint both for the base and the heraldry. Over time it has been beaten pretty hard but touching it up is not too difficult.
If I can dig up some photos of before use and it current condition I'll post them.
Mathias
I've heard a lot of people suggest gluing down canvas--what kind of canvas do you recommend? Cotton? Something else? Are we talking thick fabric store canvas, or something from an art supply store?
Has anyone considered taking thin slats of wood (about an eighth-inch) and gluing them onto the shield face to create a "bas-relief" effect of their heraldry? Does this sound feasable, or wood it add overmuch weight to the shield?
I used cotton canvas glued onto an aluminum blank and painted with cheap-o acrylic paints. It has held up remarkably well, through about a year's worth of fighting. I have had to do some minor touch-ups and repairs, but all in all it has worked well.
I used a cotton canvas glued on with Elmer's school glue diluted with water. Any open-weave fabric will probably work, but I like cotton because it absorbs the glue better and sticks to the aluminum better. I used two coats of glue - one to stick the fabric down, and then a second to fully fill in the weave of the fabric and provide a base for the painting. You could also use gesso, but it is not necessary.
After the glue dried, I transferred the design onto the shield with a No. 2 pencil, and then painted with acrylics. After painting, I used a clear acrylic sealer on both the front and back of the shield. This sealer allows me to clean some tape marks and most dirt off the face of the shield with a damp rag. My husband added edging, and viola!
I usually epoxy my canvas onto my (roughed) aluminum blank. I put a layer of epoxy down, and smooth the canvas over it (remember to iron the canvas after washing, because it will resist all smoothing efforts otherwise ) and apply enough more epoxy on the surface of the canvas to create penetration with the stuff below. The epoxy helps the canvas resist anything that would tear it if it was just glued down, like a basket hilt or a strong tree branch, etc. I use cheap acrylic paint and then for that extra bit self abuse, I add a layer of marine varnish to protect the paint job. This will yellow any white in the arms though. I have friends that use something else that doesn't yellow, but protects the paint equally well but can't remember what it is off hand.
It takes a few days for the whole process but the canvas holds up for a few years with minor paint touch ups.
Use any heavyweight cotton or mostly-cotton canvas you can buy at a fabric store. Artist's canvas is really nice, but also very expensive-- it can run you as much as 30.00 per yard.
Glue the canvas to the shield face with diluted Elmer's white glue. Cutting the glue with about 20-25% water by volume is usually the trick. If you're using a wooden shield blank, and you want the canvas to grip it like there's no tomorrow, heat the glue and the shield up before applying it.
Using a roller or a large brush, apply a thin coat of glue to the entire shield face, and to the entire surface of the canvas that will contact the shield. Smooth the wrinkles out of the canvas with your hands. If you have trouble getting a completely smooth surface becuse the cloth was wrinkled/crushed beforehand, apply another thin coat of glue to the canvas, after it's been stuck onto the shield, and smooth the wrinkles out. Sometimes, a heavy-duty plastic squeegee helps with this.
Trim the excess canvas on the inside of the shield with a boxcutter, so that it lies flat, with no overlaps. Using a staplegun, staple the canvas down around the shield edges.
When the shield is dry (2 days or so, to be on the safe side), prime the canvas for painting using acrylic "gesso", using a roller or a large brush. Let the gesso dry for a couple of hours between coats, and apply 2 to 3 coats. If you want the surface really, super smooth for painting, apply the last coat with a putty knife, and sand it smooth after it dries. (I've never done this for a shield. Canvas for paintings, yes. Shield, no.)
Cut out another piece of canvas or thin leather the same shape as your shield, but smaller. Glue this piece onto the inside of the shield the same way you did the shield face, so that the inside looks nice and finished, too.
Paint the shield with acrylic paints. Apply your paint in thin layers. Impasto isn't a good technique for this application. If you paint it with oils, remember you'll have to let it dry for at least a month (3 would be best) before being able to apply any protective coatings over the painting.
When the painting is dry (2-3 days for acrylics), apply 3-4 coats of varathane for protection. Follow the directions on the can for drying time and prep between coats. Best results seem to come from semi-gloss or matte (flat) finishes.
Sir Gaston wrote:Then I laid up a fiberglass shield, rimmed it in aluminum channel and covered the channel with leather. The leather was held down with brass gallery....
As I understand, gallery is decorative, embossed metal strip. Many times pierced. The gothic looking brass trim around the leather on the front of the shield is “galleryâ€Â
Was that canvas of the art store variety, cotton duck, something else?
Ummmm.......... I don't really know. It was some old cotton canvas that I had laying around the house. My godmother originally made it up into some shower curtains. I believe it is just straight cotton canvas from the fabric store.
Really, any heavyweight fabric with a slightly open weave should work just fine. For a cheapy alternative, go get a small canvas painter's dropcloth - a 6x8 is about $10 at Home Depot. Then just use the process I described.
The advantage to using Elmer's glue (or any other water based glue) is that tears in the cover can be repaired easily by just wetting the area around the tear and pressing it back into place. Depending on the size of the tear, you may also want to brush a little more glue over it once you have it smoothed back down. The disadvantage is that you will need to seal it with some sort of sealer, or the glue will get wet and the cover will slip off.
I'll be eagerly awaiting the news on the gallery. Sounds like a good idea.
On the "bas-relief charges":
I was considering adding my charges that way by carving them in wood, then gluing them onto the face of my shield, then covering it all in canvas, gessoing, painting and other detailing. The cross part is easy...the difficult part is getting the heraldic panther just so.
Terrific info and pics, everyone. Thanks. If anyone else has any tips, suggestions, or alternate methods, please jump in. And T-Bob, from what I've seen your projects usually turn out great, so share as you go.
I'll be eagerly awaiting the news on the gallery. Sounds like a good idea.
On the "bas-relief charges":
I was considering adding my charges that way by carving them in wood, then gluing them onto the face of my shield, then covering it all in canvas, gessoing, painting and other detailing. The cross part is easy...the difficult part is getting the heraldic panther just so.
I'll try to keep folks posted on my progress.
They make a 2 part epoxy putty that sculpts like clay, and then it can be sanded when it hardens. (I can find the name if interested.) You may want to try something like this.
If you want to make copies of your device, you should be able to sculpt your device in an oil base clay (Roma Plastilina) and then make a plaster mold, or latex and plaster mold. Take the mold and press the Epoxy putty into it, and before it hardens completely, remove it and apply it to your shield. Then add you fabric and gesso over that.
I actually prefer painting my device straight on my wooden shields. I use to paint canvas covers, but I am tired of watching them get ripped up -this is especially frustrating now that I fight in a kingdom where thrusting tips are rare. I went back to painting on wood and so far I am very happy. When the device gets nicked up, I just grab some paint and touch it up. This is very hard to do with a torn canvas cover because you have to reglue the canvas back down (if the pieces are not missing) and then try to repaint it. The only draw back is if you use an aluminum shield (shame on you) or the wooden shield gets busted up. But nothing is perfect. Lol..
I have a few painted shields laying around and I will try to post some photos now that I am back on line after a 8 month absence.
(^_^)
Hjalmar of Sognefjord
Squire to Duke Sir John The Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Kingdom of Glean Ahbann.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
I'll be eagerly awaiting the news on the gallery. Sounds like a good idea.
On the "bas-relief charges":
I was considering adding my charges that way by carving them in wood, then gluing them onto the face of my shield, then covering it all in canvas, gessoing, painting and other detailing. The cross part is easy...the difficult part is getting the heraldic panther just so.
I'll try to keep folks posted on my progress.
They make a 2 part epoxy putty that sculpts like clay, and then it can be sanded when it hardens. (I can find the name if interested.) You may want to try something like this. If you want to make copies of your device, you should be able to sculpt your device in an oil base clay (Roma Plastilina) and then make a plaster mold, or latex and plaster mold. Take the mold and press the Epoxy putty into it, and before it hardens completely, remove it and apply it to your shield. Then add you fabric and gesso over that.
Just a thought.
Went to the Devcon webpage--sounds like the product is called Devcon Magic-Bond 4-oz. Repair Putty
Item No. G45600
I think I'd like to try that, actually, if it's the stuff you're talking about. I'm an artist, and a fair hand at clay sculpture. If the stuff's not toxic, is it possible to form this freehand, directly to my shield face?
I'm going to try an experiment with the epoxy putty--I have two shield blanks in plywood, and will make a low-relief of Heartburn Kitty on one, and one with Hushgirl's heraldry on the other, then cover them both with canvas and gesso. Then, do field testing.
If it works out, perhaps you'll have something impressive for the combat you proposed for later in the year...
I haven't painted a shield yet but I have a hypothetical question: suppose the device you're going to paint has a red and gold field, and you have some red canvas lying around; using Elmer's (either carpenter glue or the old school white) can you glue it to a wooden shield without "splotches" or smears showing through? Or will you just end up having to paint all of the canvas after the gluing anyway?
I found some colored canvas last weekend but I'd like to know if it's doable in terms of a clean, finished appearance or if I should just pick a netural colored canvas and paint the entire device after gluing. If I can cut down on paint (and upkeep later) by having to paint only part of the canvas that would be great.
I use a "workable fixative" sprayed on the shield. It allows me to re-position the cloth to get it just right. Plus not adding alot of weight to the shield. I also use heavy duck cloth or other tight weave fabric. You want to use as tight a weave as you can find. The looser the weave the more "absorbant" the fabric is to the paint. If the fabric is TOO absorbant depending on the paint, it can run or you will get "fuzzy" lines. I then Gesso the cloth to get a sealed painting surface.
I use Liquitex acrylic paint. Liquitex is relatively cheap but comes in a huge amount of colors. You can also buy a multiplier medium to add to your paint to "make more of the same color". Acrylic is water solubale and when dries, dries into a flexible plastic.
Insane Irish
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
If I were you madyn I would paint the whole shield. The amount of paint you will save will be inconsiquental and the amount of time you will spend in up keep will multiply. painting the shield with gesso, not only seals the shield but it acts as a stiffening agent, effectively strengthening the canvas. It also allows you to clean the shield easier as stated above.
unsealed canvas will collect dust and dirt and stains easier. Also elmers glue and other types like that, can and will seap throught he fabric and create 'dark spots" on your sheild. I advise using a more uniform type of adhesive.
Insane Irish
Quote: "Nissan Maxima"
(on Pennsic) I know that movie. It is the 13th warrior. A bunch of guys in armour that doesn't match itself or anybody elses, go on a trip and argue and get drunk and get laid and then fight Tuchux.
Personally, I would get neutral colored canvas and paint the whole thing. Acrylic paints really aren't that expensive, and a bottle of paint goes a long way - as long as you prepare your canvas correctly. If you put two layers of Elmer's glue on the canvas, that should fill the weave sufficiently enough that you won't have much absorption.
On the shield I did, I bought about $6 worth of paint (3 8 oz bottles) and a bottle of acrylic sealer for $8. I used about three quarters of a bottle of white, half the bottle of red, and a negligible amount of the black. I painted both sides of the shield - the back is solid white. I used half a bottle of acrylic sealer to seal both sides of the shield. I have touched up the shield a couple of times with the leftover paint.
With acrylic paints, you can also thin them slightly with water to stretch them further - I would actually recommend this, as it makes the paints a little easier to work with. I thin them about three parts paint to one part water - that's an estimate, since I ususally just thin the paint until it "looks right".
Oh yes, you will also want to buy a set of brushes - Wal-Mart carries a fairly decent set of various sized brushes for about $3. The teeny tiny size comes in handy when doing all the detailed lines and stuff. If you are at Gulf Wars later in the week, come by the Small Gray Bear camp and look me up. I'll be happy to show you a close up of the shield and all the painting tricks I used.
Gwyneth
(edited because I forgot it is the week of GW!)
Thanks for the input. I might need to go back to the store and pick up some neutral canvas (I bought the red and washed it, so a return is probably a no-go). My next question before I do that--is it possible to use the red canvas I have, painting over the entire thing, or would it just take too many coats to overpower the red? (The field is an embattled red and black, the charges are white.)
Sadly, I won't be at Gulf Wars Gwyneth, but thanks for the offer.
Go ahead and use your red canvas. Glue it down like folks here have been telling you, and then prime it with acrylic gesso. One thick coat will probably do the trick, and it is a quick job-- you can use a roller or a house-painting brush.
The leftover red canvas can be made into a liner for the inside of the shield.
Try it and see what happens. I think that as long as you put a sealer coat of glue on top of the canvas (that's the second coat of glue), that it shouldn't show through too much. However, you will definitely want to *not* thin the white paint - that will give you a little better coverage. The real reason to use a white canvas is that it makes transferring the design sooooo much easier. It is much easier to see a pencil line on white canvas than it is to see one on red canvas (been there, done that).
Or, you could just save your red canvas for a wall hanging, banner, coat of plates, arming coat, armor bag, ground cloth, dags for a shade pavilion, etc. Lots and lots of uses for red canvas other than for a shield cover! If you need more ideas, I'll be happy to provide them - I've got a million of them!
Thanks again for the suggestions. I think I'll try to tough it through the red canvas this go around and learn my lesson for next time. So, since it sounds like pencil won't work too well, how about chalk?
The problem I have is that I use my shield in metal weapon fighting and sometimes it gets hit so hard the metal sword ends up puncturing/penetrating the material cover and making a big indentation in the ply underneath. I'm considering getting a layer of medium to thick leather and sticking it to the ply blank, front leather side down facing the shield blank, so that I can paint the underside of the leather that is facing outside with my heraldry. I think the thickness of the leather will help absorb the blows, the underside of the leather being on the outside will allow paint to absorb into it and it will be hard to rip this material. I will deal with the edges the usual SCA way.
Does this sound like it would work and last a reasonable time? I'm thinking it sounds pretty damn sturdy
) and apply enough more epoxy on the surface of the canvas to create penetration with the stuff below. The epoxy helps the canvas resist anything that would tear it if it was just glued down, like a basket hilt or a strong tree branch, etc. I use cheap acrylic paint and then for that extra bit self abuse, I add a layer of marine varnish to protect the paint job. This will yellow any white in the arms though. I have friends that use something else that doesn't yellow, but protects the paint equally well but can't remember what it is off hand.
