So, there are a number of threads and web sites about how to bend and laminate a shield, but a few points are missing in all of them.
- Why curved? What's the advantage, other than looking a cooler than a flat shield. Is it supposed to give a bit better coverage (by wrapping around the body a bit) or better balance (by changing the centre of gravity), or what?
- How much curvature (after glue is dried and clamps removed) is optimum for, say, a 24" wide heater?
- If you want forearm padding between the straps, should it be thicker in the middle so as to present a flat surface against your arm?
I'm thinking to make one, but I'm still wondering if it's worth the extra steps.
Heater Shield - Get Bent
- Hew
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Heater Shield - Get Bent
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- Johannes The Bald
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Why curved?
Weapons are more likely to slide off.
Center of gravity is pulled toward the center of your mass, which makes it easier to control.
from your statements on straps it sounds like you are planning on strapping it to your forearm and not using it as a center grip. (center grip stlye heater size I have been told should be shoulder to shoulder and chin to crotch)
optimum curvature for 24 inches.
I have found that somewhere between 3 and 4 inches is personally best.
(24 inch shild when flat. Once curved and laid on the floor front up the high point should be 3-4 inches aove the ground.)
Padding.
my advice is to fill in the space between the shield and arm but make sure that your wrist is slightly turned in toward you.
Also make sure to have the hand strap so the wrist is at a natural angle for you.
Jay
Weapons are more likely to slide off.
Center of gravity is pulled toward the center of your mass, which makes it easier to control.
from your statements on straps it sounds like you are planning on strapping it to your forearm and not using it as a center grip. (center grip stlye heater size I have been told should be shoulder to shoulder and chin to crotch)
optimum curvature for 24 inches.
I have found that somewhere between 3 and 4 inches is personally best.
(24 inch shild when flat. Once curved and laid on the floor front up the high point should be 3-4 inches aove the ground.)
Padding.
my advice is to fill in the space between the shield and arm but make sure that your wrist is slightly turned in toward you.
Also make sure to have the hand strap so the wrist is at a natural angle for you.
Jay
- Hew
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- Posts: 2871
- Joined: Tue May 04, 2004 5:02 pm
- Location: Sackville, New Brunswick, Canada
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Jay Sabath wrote:from your statements on straps it sounds like you are planning on strapping it to your forearm and not using it as a center grip.
An "X" strap for the grip, and a wider single strap with a buckle, 2/3 of the way towards the elbow. I'll be using the plumb line from the corner method to find the angle.
Jay Sabath wrote:optimum curvature for 24 inches.
I have found that somewhere between 3 and 4 inches is personally best.
(24 inch shild when flat. Once curved and laid on the floor front up the high point should be 3-4 inches aove the ground.)
Hmm... 3" sounds good to me.
"It is a primitive form of thought that things exist or do not exist." - Sir Arthur Eddington
- Johannes The Bald
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Hew,
I will be using an X strap for my next shield as well.
Ceramite,
My old faithful shield is a heater 26" across and 32" long. From chin to knee standing up is 42" for me.
The larger a shield is the less moved it is in most fights as it covers more, but (and you knew this was coming) the slower it is to move verses the mass of a smaller (and lighter, all other things being equal) shield.
A larger shield also protects your opponent better as well.
larger shields work best against newer and green opponents in my experience.
Is chin to knee too large?
No, but it has disadvantages that should be considered.
besides you can always take a few inches off the top of a shield without too mch trouble. Adding is a whole different problem.
Jay
I will be using an X strap for my next shield as well.
Ceramite,
My old faithful shield is a heater 26" across and 32" long. From chin to knee standing up is 42" for me.
The larger a shield is the less moved it is in most fights as it covers more, but (and you knew this was coming) the slower it is to move verses the mass of a smaller (and lighter, all other things being equal) shield.
A larger shield also protects your opponent better as well.
larger shields work best against newer and green opponents in my experience.
Is chin to knee too large?
No, but it has disadvantages that should be considered.
besides you can always take a few inches off the top of a shield without too mch trouble. Adding is a whole different problem.
Jay
- Johannes The Bald
- Archive Member
- Posts: 632
- Joined: Fri Nov 07, 2003 2:01 am
- Location: Plano, TX USA
Hew,
Do your spaulders add that much to your shoulder width?
all that size suggestion is meant for is a rule of thumb.
Start the shield out wider when you first build it if you are not sure. you can always cut it down. I have a buckler that started out as a round shield about 24 inches. I had to saw it down 2 different times because the edges were gone.
Jay
Do your spaulders add that much to your shoulder width?
all that size suggestion is meant for is a rule of thumb.
Start the shield out wider when you first build it if you are not sure. you can always cut it down. I have a buckler that started out as a round shield about 24 inches. I had to saw it down 2 different times because the edges were gone.
Jay
Ceramite wrote:Good reply Jay!!
Are longer sheilds say chin to knee just too big for one on one combat??
Note that Jay was referring to center grip heaters at the shoulder to shoulder chin to crotch size. It's a matter of opinion what size is too big for one on one.
The thing with a center grip is that you have no leverage, so the bigger the shield, the more easily it is moved against your will.
Gavin
