So I'm going to be making a suit of armor out of 18 ga mild steel (don't worry, I'm not doing any combat in this, it's just decorative). I was wondering, what size rivet would be ideal for this particular gauge? I'd love to just pick up rivets out of the box and use them with minimal amounts of trimming and grinding. I looked in the Essays on Armoring section of this site and found a guide to riveting that recommended.
Secondly, I'm going to have to make my own patterns for this armor. However, I've run into a few snags visualizing how to make proper armor patterns. Paper/poster board doesn't flow like metal and you can't dish it out or put certain curves in it, so how do you know if the pattern your making will fit correctly? Should I just use the pattern as a rough guideline or is there some secret to making it more precise that I haven't figured out yet?
Rivet size assistance and armor patterns
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RalphS
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I prefer to use 4 mm rivets for most projects. They should normally be cut to the appropriate length in place, which may vary depending on what you're riveting. Leave about the same length as the diameter of the shank, for setting the rivet.
Patterning is a whole art by itself.
In general, use it as a rough guideline. Don't expect somebody elses patterns to work for you, the way you work the hammer will affect the way the metal moves, and thus the accuracy of the final parts.
If you want the posterboard to behave a bit more like metal, you can slit it. Pull the slits open to get the effect of stretching (dishing) the metal, or let the sides slide over eachother to get the effect of raising. Remember that the slits allow "stretching" in only one direction, while in metal you can stretch in all directions you like.
Make sure to leave some margin in the patterns! The posterboard patterns may be cut to exact size if you want, but the metal should have some margin in the critical spots. It's always easier to grind or cut a piece off than to weld it on.
If you'll be mass-producing the armour you're patterning, keep track of the changes you're making to the metal parts, and adjust the pattern accordingly. This way, you'll probably have a perfect pattern around the third piece you're making.
Patterning is a whole art by itself.
In general, use it as a rough guideline. Don't expect somebody elses patterns to work for you, the way you work the hammer will affect the way the metal moves, and thus the accuracy of the final parts.
If you want the posterboard to behave a bit more like metal, you can slit it. Pull the slits open to get the effect of stretching (dishing) the metal, or let the sides slide over eachother to get the effect of raising. Remember that the slits allow "stretching" in only one direction, while in metal you can stretch in all directions you like.
Make sure to leave some margin in the patterns! The posterboard patterns may be cut to exact size if you want, but the metal should have some margin in the critical spots. It's always easier to grind or cut a piece off than to weld it on.
If you'll be mass-producing the armour you're patterning, keep track of the changes you're making to the metal parts, and adjust the pattern accordingly. This way, you'll probably have a perfect pattern around the third piece you're making.
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Sean Powell
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Rivet diameter is mostly a matter of preference. Typical scandian joints are oversized with sloppy articulation thus requiring larger rivet heads which come from larger rivet diameters. Take some time to look at extant pieces in museaums etc and choose the diameter rivet that has the correct head size for your application.
Rule of thumb for rivet length is 1 diameter longer than the material is thick. Example: 1/8" diameter rivet through 2 pieces of 16ga (.060) means a rivet length of .060+.060 + .125 = .245" or about 1/4". Rivets should be longer for articulation and can be shorter if you countersink the side you are peaning on.
Paterning is an art in itself. If you have a piece you can reverse engineer it it possible to approximate a pattern by covering ther piece with tape, pealing it off and VERY carefully flattening the tape paying attention to colapse the tape where you will stretch the steel.
The best way to check a pattern is to build the piece. Then look at where you wish it was different and where you cut away steel to correct it. Modify the pattern and build another. Good patterns do not make a good armorer, practice does.
Good luck,
Sean
Rule of thumb for rivet length is 1 diameter longer than the material is thick. Example: 1/8" diameter rivet through 2 pieces of 16ga (.060) means a rivet length of .060+.060 + .125 = .245" or about 1/4". Rivets should be longer for articulation and can be shorter if you countersink the side you are peaning on.
Paterning is an art in itself. If you have a piece you can reverse engineer it it possible to approximate a pattern by covering ther piece with tape, pealing it off and VERY carefully flattening the tape paying attention to colapse the tape where you will stretch the steel.
The best way to check a pattern is to build the piece. Then look at where you wish it was different and where you cut away steel to correct it. Modify the pattern and build another. Good patterns do not make a good armorer, practice does.
Good luck,
Sean
I personally use 1/8" rivets (shank, not head) for most of my work and 3/16" for my knee joints.
Sean: Do you think the 1/8" is better for the knees? In my defense, my first two knees had less than 2mm gap through articulation. The ridge, on the other hand . . .
I have a bolt cutter I use to trim my rivets, and I do that after assembly. I usually do 1/2" length for purchases, but it's a bit long. Better too long than too short.
Sean: Do you think the 1/8" is better for the knees? In my defense, my first two knees had less than 2mm gap through articulation. The ridge, on the other hand . . .
I have a bolt cutter I use to trim my rivets, and I do that after assembly. I usually do 1/2" length for purchases, but it's a bit long. Better too long than too short.
It's up to you now.
[quote=
Paterning is an art in itself. If you have a piece you can reverse engineer it it possible to approximate a pattern by covering ther piece with tape, pealing it off and VERY carefully flattening the tape paying attention to colapse the tape where you will stretch the steel.
Good luck,
Sean[/quote]
Hello,
Instead of tape, what I have use is cooking foil. It is not perfect but it gives you a good starting point.
all the best Marcus
Paterning is an art in itself. If you have a piece you can reverse engineer it it possible to approximate a pattern by covering ther piece with tape, pealing it off and VERY carefully flattening the tape paying attention to colapse the tape where you will stretch the steel.
Good luck,
Sean[/quote]
Hello,
Instead of tape, what I have use is cooking foil. It is not perfect but it gives you a good starting point.
all the best Marcus
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Armour Design
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Rivets
I find 4mm x 4mm steel rivets work best and at this length don't need any trimming. Longer steel or brass rivets are needed for strapwork.
Good luck.
Mike
Good luck.
Mike