College Student looking for heavy combat kit on a budget
-
nzanesmith
- Archive Member
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Baketrsfield, CA.
- Contact:
College Student looking for heavy combat kit on a budget
Ok so here’s what I’m looking for, and need help finding.
T Faced Barbute, without any bar work on it, would really like stainless but might be to much money (would like to spend 350 or less but i know this will coast the most so it could be ajusted a lil up if need be)
Splinted arms and legs (splints on the inside) would like stainless elbows and knees with simple but classy fans on them. (150 or less for each, arms 150> legs 150 >)
I’m working on a lamellar coat and yes I will make all of you “all metalâ€Â
T Faced Barbute, without any bar work on it, would really like stainless but might be to much money (would like to spend 350 or less but i know this will coast the most so it could be ajusted a lil up if need be)
Splinted arms and legs (splints on the inside) would like stainless elbows and knees with simple but classy fans on them. (150 or less for each, arms 150> legs 150 >)
I’m working on a lamellar coat and yes I will make all of you “all metalâ€Â
- Brian W. Rainey
- Archive Member
- Posts: 2646
- Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2003 1:01 am
- Location: McHenry, IL USA
- Contact:
From a historical standpoint... a "t-faced barbute" would, most likely, not have been worn with splinted arms and legs... so if an accurate visible portrayal is a factor in your decision making and the helm is the main focus, you might want to look more towards plate arms and legs. Or a bascinet would be better-suited to splinted arms/legs. Either combination would not cost much, if any, different... depending on the vendor.
YEah-and the lamellar also wouldn't have been typically worn with those, either (in Europe)
I usually figure out what type of helmet I want and make a kit to match.
May I suggest a 14th century rig? The arms and legs can be splinted, a bascinet may be substituted for the T-faced barbute for the same (or less) money and a Coat of Plates can be made with a CoP kit plus your labor.
The 14th c. is a great period, because the armor isn't that hard to make and the results are usually very competitive with the sport fighter crowd.
I usually figure out what type of helmet I want and make a kit to match.
May I suggest a 14th century rig? The arms and legs can be splinted, a bascinet may be substituted for the T-faced barbute for the same (or less) money and a Coat of Plates can be made with a CoP kit plus your labor.
The 14th c. is a great period, because the armor isn't that hard to make and the results are usually very competitive with the sport fighter crowd.
"Thomas you are the bad guy because you have dared to embrace such concepts as patriotism, duty, and honor. If you add fidelity, trust, courage, and fortitude you have the new version of the seven deadly sins. " -Winterfell
www.kcsword.com
www.kcsword.com
- olaf haraldson
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3976
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2000 2:01 am
- Location: Canton, NY, USA
Re: College Student looking for heavy combat kit on a budget
[quote="nzanesmith"]
I’m working on a lamellar coat and yes I will make all of you “all metalâ€Â
I’m working on a lamellar coat and yes I will make all of you “all metalâ€Â
- Henry of Bexley
- Archive Member
- Posts: 533
- Joined: Thu Jul 22, 2004 2:07 pm
- Location: Westfield, WI
-
nzanesmith
- Archive Member
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Baketrsfield, CA.
- Contact:
I do very much appreciate all of your help and speedy responses to my post, I will most definitely check out stonekeep, as for the plastic lamellar who here has a coat of plates that weighs about 3 and a half pounds and the same idea for the splinted arms and legs weight savings. I’ve spoke with Duke Paul and Prince Jade after a long day fighting and the thing I’ve noticed is that the lighter the better, you can stay out and up most importantly all day but I do notice that im compromising on historical accuracy with period conflicts in style of armor and plastic and for that I do apologize but I see this as just my first kit to get out there and be able to fight and learn without overheating too much. After a few years or whenever the plastic breaks or the bruises get to big then I plan on going all metal once I’ve got the hang of it.
- Stonekeep
- Archive Member
- Posts: 4991
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Lufkin, Texas, USA
- Contact:
I offer most everything I make now in stainless as well.
I just started coming out with ready to strap on pieces, which is a divergence from our original focus of armor "parts". The only problem is I may not have a lot of that on the website before you are actually ready to drop money... BUT we are definitely coming out with splinted arms and legs soon, as well as half steel combinations. I can already get you in some nice stainless steel spaulders for way way under your budget. A lot of our former customers have been really excited about us finally going into this market, and to be honest, I am too. So many armories specialize in one thing or another, but I try to have a huge variety. All except helms and gauntlets, those seem to really be specialties. maybe some day.
I just started coming out with ready to strap on pieces, which is a divergence from our original focus of armor "parts". The only problem is I may not have a lot of that on the website before you are actually ready to drop money... BUT we are definitely coming out with splinted arms and legs soon, as well as half steel combinations. I can already get you in some nice stainless steel spaulders for way way under your budget. A lot of our former customers have been really excited about us finally going into this market, and to be honest, I am too. So many armories specialize in one thing or another, but I try to have a huge variety. All except helms and gauntlets, those seem to really be specialties. maybe some day.
-
nzanesmith
- Archive Member
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Baketrsfield, CA.
- Contact:
Well Mr. Cyrack Reinholt von Croner I just went and took a look at your site and I do like your 3 lame stainless spalders, and I love the price. I see that you have a set of them in stock however they are small and I don’t believe they are stainless, about how long do you think it would be until I received them if I placed an order by the end of the week? Oh and yes I also liked your spade fan knees and elbows but the spade was a little plain, do you have any ideas on things that could be done to that, I don’t want like fluting or etching or anything, just a little more something there and I don’t know what that is, If that is any help or not ïÂ
- Stonekeep
- Archive Member
- Posts: 4991
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Lufkin, Texas, USA
- Contact:
Right now our turnaround is 2 weeks. Thats very comparable to most people if not better. We do have some of Icefalcon Armory's products in stock and on sale. (another thread in the for sale part of the archive). The prices might be a little out of your range but you might look anyways. You dont really have unreasonable pricing goals.. I think you should be able to get everything you are wanting. You might look at some of Icefalcons things because he is a lot fancier than myself.
Actually I do not use brass rivets at all. I agree most places do use them on stainless, but I actually use stainless steel rivets on my stainless steel products. (I use regular steel rivets on regular steel products) They cost me a little more of course, but I really dont like brass much either. I also back every rivet with a washer which most places do not do (and I cant understand why they dont unless again it is a financial reason)
The splinted arms I was going to first come out with will look similiar to the ones in the archive patterns (but different of course) but where the steel mostly covers all of the leather. I am also going to make some eventually like Icefalcons, where there are strips of steel behind the leather and only a few to decrease weight. I see these being diversified enough to support the need to offer both. I could always make the other ones first if i had a customer like yourself that was interested in them.
Actually I do not use brass rivets at all. I agree most places do use them on stainless, but I actually use stainless steel rivets on my stainless steel products. (I use regular steel rivets on regular steel products) They cost me a little more of course, but I really dont like brass much either. I also back every rivet with a washer which most places do not do (and I cant understand why they dont unless again it is a financial reason)
The splinted arms I was going to first come out with will look similiar to the ones in the archive patterns (but different of course) but where the steel mostly covers all of the leather. I am also going to make some eventually like Icefalcons, where there are strips of steel behind the leather and only a few to decrease weight. I see these being diversified enough to support the need to offer both. I could always make the other ones first if i had a customer like yourself that was interested in them.
- Andrew Turnbull
- Archive Member
- Posts: 284
- Joined: Thu May 05, 2005 6:15 am
- Location: Norman, OK
- Stonekeep
- Archive Member
- Posts: 4991
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Lufkin, Texas, USA
- Contact:
I might add that the splinted arms that were to be completely encircled by steel will be placed on a lighter weight 9 ounce more flexible leather, witht he steel being the protectant. (16 gauge mild or equivalent) The mostly leather with splints behind version will be on heavy 14/16 ounce leather we make saddles from and I personnally feel these will not be as comfortable to wear. I also feel that the first version (taking into account thinner leather, and in stainless steel) will not be much heavier, if at all...
- Stonekeep
- Archive Member
- Posts: 4991
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Lufkin, Texas, USA
- Contact:
Not to dissuade business, but the Andrews Armory that PM'ed you has a nice set of splinted arms, like I was talking about, on their site. They are slightly different than what I am going to produce, but they do have a fancier cop like you said you wanted, and the price seems very reasonable for mild. (I didnt see a price for stainless). My finished product will actually be heavier than his because I am going to use 5 piece articulated full steel elbows, and he uses leather lames which would be lighter if you are searching for lighter weight.
-
nzanesmith
- Archive Member
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Baketrsfield, CA.
- Contact:
The splints I was interested in were similar to icefalcon’s splints, I like how his strips are about an inch wide or so its hard to tell from the pics but I would like them on the inside not the outside. I figure I was looking for about half leather to steel ratio equal gaps between the metal strips, if that makes since to you and maybe leather that isn’t quite as heavy however it has been a long time since I took a good close look at a saddle to see how thick the leather is so it might actually be perfect. Im sure you know better then I considering you work with it everyday. As for the ‘fancinessâ€Â
-
nzanesmith
- Archive Member
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Baketrsfield, CA.
- Contact:
http://www.creationtime.com/jeffsbarbute.GIF
This is as close to what i was looking for as i have found yet but a t face not with the point thing in the middle
This is as close to what i was looking for as i have found yet but a t face not with the point thing in the middle
- Stonekeep
- Archive Member
- Posts: 4991
- Joined: Mon Sep 09, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Lufkin, Texas, USA
- Contact:
Well the really good thing about Icefalcon's stuff is it's sitting right here and can be shipped immediately... I haven't even gotten to sitting down and drawing up patterns yet.
I am not sure what (you) mean by rolling the edges of the fans, I'd prob have to see a picture to see what you mean. The most I normally do is fluting of the fans on special orders. More than that and you are getting away from my specialization which is production and price, and into the custom armorers realm...
My plans are to take the basic (but well articulated) pieces we currently shelve and add leather and steel to make a finished product which can still be produced in quantity. During season it is nothing for us to drop 300-400 orders per week, and we just can't handle much variation.
I will be the first to tell you our products are not the fanciest out there, just the best products you can find anywhere close to our prices.
If you are very specific about what you want, which I do believe you know exactly what you want (which is a good thing), then you just need to find a good custom armorer which has reasonable prices. They can then get you a quote for a piece of armor exactly the way you would like it. There are several good ones but use this forum to get feedback on one before commissioning (if you go that route). and ask a lot of specific questions...
I'm not going to just sell you something to make a buck. I made my money years ago and I don't have to work. This armory cost me 9 grand last year right out of my pocket (course a lot of that was new tools so that is to be taken into account) but the point is we haven't made a profit ever..hahaha But I dont think from what you are saying, that my work would be the best route to go on the arms and legs, because it costs a lot more money to just "get something", than it does to wait and get exactly what you want the first time...
I'm an armorer, and the other armorers on here are my "peers" so I just can't recommend someone for fear of upsetting someone I might overlook, but there are plenty of armor buyers on this site who can direct you to a good and reasonable custom armory for those legs and arms, so you get exactly what you want the first time. And if we have some spaulders you like, i'd be happy to make a set for ya. I just want you to be satisfied with what you end up with. With what you posted, you have a reasonable amount of money to get a good kit you really like, but you dont have enough to buy two kits.
I am not sure what (you) mean by rolling the edges of the fans, I'd prob have to see a picture to see what you mean. The most I normally do is fluting of the fans on special orders. More than that and you are getting away from my specialization which is production and price, and into the custom armorers realm...
My plans are to take the basic (but well articulated) pieces we currently shelve and add leather and steel to make a finished product which can still be produced in quantity. During season it is nothing for us to drop 300-400 orders per week, and we just can't handle much variation.
I will be the first to tell you our products are not the fanciest out there, just the best products you can find anywhere close to our prices.
If you are very specific about what you want, which I do believe you know exactly what you want (which is a good thing), then you just need to find a good custom armorer which has reasonable prices. They can then get you a quote for a piece of armor exactly the way you would like it. There are several good ones but use this forum to get feedback on one before commissioning (if you go that route). and ask a lot of specific questions...
I'm not going to just sell you something to make a buck. I made my money years ago and I don't have to work. This armory cost me 9 grand last year right out of my pocket (course a lot of that was new tools so that is to be taken into account) but the point is we haven't made a profit ever..hahaha But I dont think from what you are saying, that my work would be the best route to go on the arms and legs, because it costs a lot more money to just "get something", than it does to wait and get exactly what you want the first time...
I'm an armorer, and the other armorers on here are my "peers" so I just can't recommend someone for fear of upsetting someone I might overlook, but there are plenty of armor buyers on this site who can direct you to a good and reasonable custom armory for those legs and arms, so you get exactly what you want the first time. And if we have some spaulders you like, i'd be happy to make a set for ya. I just want you to be satisfied with what you end up with. With what you posted, you have a reasonable amount of money to get a good kit you really like, but you dont have enough to buy two kits.
-
nzanesmith
- Archive Member
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Baketrsfield, CA.
- Contact:
http://www.waldryk.com/legs/bestknees083001.jpg
see how the edge at the top is kinda just turned up or actually not just straight, its bent across the length of the edge, thats what i was talking about, i doubt if its called a rolled edge that was just what came to mind. But yes i do like your stainless spalders very much
see how the edge at the top is kinda just turned up or actually not just straight, its bent across the length of the edge, thats what i was talking about, i doubt if its called a rolled edge that was just what came to mind. But yes i do like your stainless spalders very much
-
nzanesmith
- Archive Member
- Posts: 60
- Joined: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:51 pm
- Location: Baketrsfield, CA.
- Contact:
- olaf haraldson
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3976
- Joined: Mon Nov 20, 2000 2:01 am
- Location: Canton, NY, USA
I got it cut into plates, I had to round the corners and punch holes. I have a steel distributor just down the street from me. That was for a 4x8 sheet cut up... I paid $50 for that, $10 or so for cord, and $10 or so on drill bits. buckles and straps I had around.
- Attachments
-
- [1].JPG (44.86 KiB) Viewed 150 times
