Overgown with hanging sleeves from the Mac Bible

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Overgown with hanging sleeves from the Mac Bible

Post by Black Swan Designs »

Here's something I thought you early period guys would get a kick out of. I found a lot of these overgowns with hanging sleeves in the Maciejowski Bible, and thought the idea was pretty cool.

[img]http://www1.tip.nl/~t401243/mac/mac25vA.jpg[/img]


Here's my take on it.

[img]http://www.historicenterprises.com/images/products/big/452_large.jpg[/img]

I like the points on either side of the slit, although in the production models I decided to make them a bit shorter, to better reflect what I was seeing in the original. The sleeves work really well though- the gown looks a lot like a suroat with the sleeves hanging, and the idea that you can pull them on if you want a different look or if the weather turns cool appeals to me. :idea:

I've been more interesting in some of the early stuff lately, and was fascinated to discover more than just shapeless T tunics. Garments like this gown have a lot more pizzazz and a more sophisticated cut than I expected to find. All in all, I think this turned out rather well, and I'm pretty pleased with it! :D

Hanging Sleeve Overgown, c.1250-1325

Gwen
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Post by Tristan vom Schwarzwald »

Argggggh.

Must fight urge....buy.....more....clothes!
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Post by David Teague »

Don't fight the urge...

You're growing sleepy...

sleepy...

sleepy...

Now log on to your PC and pull out your credit card....

Gwen,

Nice. 8)

I saw the posting on firestriker a few days ago and checked out the new
Maciejowski Bible clothing line... nice stuff!

Cheers,

DT
Last edited by David Teague on Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by olivier »

I've been making a few of these for myself recently!
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Post by Jacob »

Excellent. I saw these on the site yesterday when looking at pottery. I was a bit supprised by the long points around the slit. I like the prunted beaker, too. Were the original prunts that blunt? Many I've seen look difficult to hold comfortably.

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Post by Black Swan Designs »

Hi Jacob-

The points on overgowns in the Mac Bible are a bit shorter than my original interpretation, which is why I've shortened up the production models. The points on our other new garment (which I have not yet posted pictures of because Jeff is still working with the photos) are very long because they appear that way in the manuscripts. Now that's a fun garment! :D

As far as the prunts on the glass, they are as blunt as the original. The other one we will be carrying (which is 13th-14thC) has slightly pointy-er prunts, but they are certainly not sharp enough to cut. My feeling is that rather than making the glass harder to hold, the prunts act as a "posi-grip", making the glass easier to hang on to! 8)

I'm really pleased with everything in the collection this month- the tunic and gowns are really smart-looking, the pottery from Trinity Court is very attractive with a lot of unique detail, and I think the glassware is absolutely outstanding. All in all, really nice stuff, really nice variety. Not that I'm biased or anything. :wink:

Gwen
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Re: Overgown with hanging sleeves from the Mac Bible

Post by Jost von Aichstadt »

Black Swan Designs wrote:Here's something I thought you early period guys would get a kick out of. I found a lot of these overgowns with hanging sleeves in the Maciejowski Bible, and thought the idea was pretty cool.


The idea is *very* cool, and personally timely. I have a question, though. In the image you post from the mac, it appears to me that the gown is lined with a contrasting color. On your reproduction, I'm not seeing this contrasting lining. Are you planning to offer a model with a lining, or am I just not seeing something correctly?
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Post by Vitus von Atzinger »

Amazing.
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Post by Black Swan Designs »

Hi Jost-

You know, I've been wondering about that myself. Many of the images seem to show a coloured lining...or is it the artist's way of getting a bit of depth in the picture? Is it fabric woven with a different colour on each side? I think the King in the image shown probably has a fur lining, but I wonder about the contrasting colour seen on the garments of poorer sorts. I'm open to input if anyone has a definative answer about that!

In the interests of keeping costs (and temperatures!) down, the off-the-peg version is unlined. However, like everything else we offer, we can line them, hand finish, etc. to the client's specs.

Gwen
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Post by Karen Larsdatter »

I think most of the images of this style of gown, at least in the Maciejowski Bible, seem to show a white fur lining, at least where enough of the garment is drawn to see the lining ... see http://www.companyofoutremer.com/gardecorps.htm for some additional examples. :)
Last edited by Karen Larsdatter on Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Jost von Aichstadt »

Black Swan Designs wrote:You know, I've been wondering about that myself. Many of the images seem to show a coloured lining...or is it the artist's way of getting a bit of depth in the picture? Is it fabric woven with a different colour on each side? I think the King in the image shown probably has a fur lining, but I wonder about the contrasting colour seen on the garments of poorer sorts. I'm open to input if anyone has a definative answer about that!

In the interests of keeping costs (and temperatures!) down, the off-the-peg version is unlined. However, like everything else we offer, we can line them, hand finish, etc. to the client's specs.


Hi Gwen - I hadn't thought of the possibility of fabric with two different-colored sides. Good speculation.

Jost
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Post by David Teague »

Karen Larsdatter wrote:I think most of the images of this style of gown, at least in the Maciejowski Bible, seem to show a white fur lining, at least where enough of the garment is drawn to see the lining ... see http://www.companyofoutremer.com/gardecorps.htm for some additional examples. :)


Hello Karen,

I'm a wee bit confused :? as the text with the site you linked stated
I feel that this garment was indeed made of tight woven wool, possibly lined with white linen, without buttons [as shown above] with option slits up front for walking or possible horse riding and the slits below the sleeves in the arm-pit area to allow the arms to pass through. Having the slits on the outside of the arms over the shoulder area as I have seen illustrated elsewhere would allow the weather to get into the garment, both rain and cold winds. I feel that the slit was always present under the arm area where the seam of the garment would be situated.


All of the examples on that site seemed to have a cloth lining... :?

No fur...

:?:
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Post by Tailoress »

The image posted at the top of this thread shows a typical miniver pattern; white Russian squirrel bellies with some of the darker top-side fur showing around the squared edges. Being that this is probably a cold-weather surcotte/gardecorps (whatever it's called), it is likely fur-lined in many cases. People of all classes, top to bottom, made use of fur linings, but perhaps the quality differed greatly. (Well, no "perhaps" about it... plenty of evidence that miniver and its ilk was for the well-off while cat and rabbit and their like were for the poorer folks.)

As for the cut of that front opening, a nifty and plausibly accurate way to get that look is to sew a gore into the center front and then split it up the middle. Voilà, you've got the fold-back effect.

-Tasha
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Post by Karen Larsdatter »

David Teague wrote:All of the examples on that site seemed to have a cloth lining... :?

No fur...

:?:

I'd interpret these two as definitely being fur linings:
http://www.wowway.com/~templar/pictures/GCdetail2.jpg (at right)
http://www.wowway.com/~templar/pictures/GCdetail3.jpg

In a lot of the other illustrations, there's at least a hint of a white lining (though it may just be a stylistic sort of thing, since white is used for outlining a lot of different things in the Maciejowski Bible), but no texture included.

Only in one case -- http://www.wowway.com/~templar/pictures/GCdetail6.jpg -- was the lining almost definitely a contrasting-colored cloth (unless it's meant to indicate, I dunno, Smurf pelts?) ;)
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Post by morristh »

Gwen,

You know--you and Tasha and Kass and a few others here really scare the **&^ out of me. You can take a stick drawing and make the most beautiful stuff out of it.



BRAVO

That is GAWJUSS

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Post by Tailoress »

Karen Larsdatter wrote:Only in one case -- http://www.wowway.com/~templar/pictures/GCdetail6.jpg -- was the lining almost definitely a contrasting-colored cloth (unless it's meant to indicate, I dunno, Smurf pelts?) ;)


Now that would be a rather fun archaeological find, wouldn't it? :o

-Tasha
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Post by Token Bastard »

Arrrrgh! And to think, I'd given up hope of ever buying from HE because all their clothing was out of my persona range! But now...

Curse you, HE! I must now spend exhorbitant amounts of money to procure clothing that actually looks good! Damn you for offering an absolutely fantabulous product!

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Post by David Teague »

Karen Larsdatter wrote:
David Teague wrote:All of the examples on that site seemed to have a cloth lining... :?

No fur...

:?:

I'd interpret these two as definitely being fur linings:
http://www.wowway.com/~templar/pictures/GCdetail2.jpg (at right)
http://www.wowway.com/~templar/pictures/GCdetail3.jpg

In a lot of the other illustrations, there's at least a hint of a white lining (though it may just be a stylistic sort of thing, since white is used for outlining a lot of different things in the Maciejowski Bible), but no texture included.

Only in one case -- http://www.wowway.com/~templar/pictures/GCdetail6.jpg -- was the lining almost definitely a contrasting-colored cloth (unless it's meant to indicate, I dunno, Smurf pelts?) ;)


I guess if I hadn't been in a hurry at work to read the link with out getting caught I would have read this gem...
To the right are two figures, one sitting, the other standing. The sitting figure has the neck flap on his Gardecorps. The standing figure shows the typical length of the Gardecorps. Upon closer inspection, you can see what appears to be a lining of possible animal pelts inside like ermine or rabbit[?].


:oops:

You guys must have heard me wrong you thought I said "no fur"...

When I clearly said "Ah, sure"... :wink:

:oops:
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Post by Black Swan Designs »

See! there are loads of them in there! Thanks to all these nice people for saving me the trouble of posting the links myself. :D

I'll line them in linen, wool, silk, fur, whatever the client likes, we live to serve. :wink:

Gwen
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Post by Jon »

I've had one of these for a few years now and though I don't get to wear it too much in warm climes (it's light wool), I can attest to the fact that it is a great practical garment for layering. Loose or belted, sleeved or not. It is great for changing temps and conditions.

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Post by Karen Larsdatter »

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Post by Black Swan Designs »

Hi Karen-

Thanks for that! It sure took a lot of effort to collect all those images, but er, were you trying to make a point wih posting them? If so I think I missed it.... (not enough coffee on a Saturday morning I think.... :( )

I really like the brown lined in green in David and Absalom. What do you think about the white edging seen on a lot of these- topstitching, trim or the artist highlighting an edge?

Gwen
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Post by Tailoress »

Black Swan Designs wrote:What do you think about the white edging seen on a lot of these- topstitching, trim or the artist highlighting an edge?

Gwen


My guess is that it's either the last thing you mention ("diapering" maybe? I'm not an illuminator though, so that might not be the correct term..?) for the purpose of enriching the folds of the fabric or it could be intended to represent the purfelle, which is the portion of a fur lining that shows around the edge and/or a bit further onto the outer layer.

-Tasha
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Post by Black Swan Designs »

So you're suggesting the white line represents a fur edging on the garment shown in David and Absalom??
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Post by Karen Larsdatter »

Black Swan Designs wrote:were you trying to make a point wih posting them? If so I think I missed it....

The point I was trying to make is that I really have no desire to start doing any housecleaning yet this morning! So there! And -- and -- and -- if I have to invent a little make-work project for myself ... so be it!

:lol:

Mostly I wanted to see if there were additional pictures of clearly-fur-lined examples (instead of the appearance that there were only two in the whole document). Interestingly, the ragged garment that the Gibeonite wears seems to be an entirely different style (with loose sleeves etc.) that we see again in a scene of peasants in the field.

(And also wanted to point out that chicks wear this kinda frock too.)

Black Swan Designs wrote:I really like the brown lined in green in David and Absalom. What do you think about the white edging seen on a lot of these- topstitching, trim or the artist highlighting an edge?

I think it's artistic convention. Many objects -- especially if they're depicted in a strong or dark color -- regardless of whether or not they're actually a textile -- are given a white line of some sort. Now, there's some especially interesting usages of the white line in textiles -- especially in the textiles relating to bedding -- that could certainly be reproduced using embroidery, appliqué, brocade, lining, etc. But I think (like Rohan Master's proclivity towards adding fancy goldwork patterns to random garments) that it's just a characteristic of the artist's style.

(Like, fer example, a lot of the Maciejowski scenes of people in mourning show 'em with cheerful smiling faces. I don't think we can read into this that mid-13th century people were just as pleased to mourn as they were to rejoice. And then there's the whole universally androgynous look ...)

The clearest example of the appearance of a white line as an artistic convention (rather than as a literal application of ornamentation to the ground fabric) that I can think off the top of my head of are the purses of Michal and Abigail. Now, I'd suspect that both women are wearing fairly plain drawstring purses -- much like the one Berengaria wears in her effigy (c. 1230). And it could well be that at least Abigail's purse is meant to be something on the order of this 14th century reliquary bag. But we cannot interpret the white shape as being a mysterious bit of ornamentation that's been embroidered on the gown.

Dunno. Certainly, if someone's specifying that they want that style of garment, but only if it has fancy whitework embroidery at the hems, why, then, you embroider it, and there ya go. The Maciejowski Bible was produced in Paris, but it's worth noting that there are many examples of whitework embroidery produced in Germany at that time -- but most of those are ecclesiastical or domestic linens (or wall-hangings) rather than garments, and that they're all white embroidery on white linen (rather than white embroidery on colored wool or silk grounds).
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Post by Murdock »

It's nice to see someone refer to 1250-1325 as "early period"



to the many in the SCA EP usually means BC :roll:






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Post by olivier »

wouldn't it more commonly be the 'high period' or something like that?
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Post by David Teague »

wouldn't it more commonly be the 'high period' or something like that?
Depends on the country.... but overall yes... early would be after the fall of Rome...AKA the dark ages.
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Post by Thomas H »

morristh wrote:Gwen,

You know--you and Tasha and Kass and a few others here really scare the **&^ out of me. You can take a stick drawing and make the most beautiful stuff out of it.





It really IS scary isn't it :D
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Post by Karen Larsdatter »

The Early Middle Ages go from roughly the 5th-10th centuries; the High Middle Ages are 11th-13th centuries; the 14th and 15th centuries are the Late Middle Ages. (But then and again, it's not like they decided on January 1, 1000, "You know what? We're still in the Middle Ages, since Rome fell centuries ago and we're not yet in the Renaissance, but now that the Holy Roman Empire is getting powerful and the Normans are going to invade England in another 66 years, and we're enjoying the Medieval Warm Period, I think we should call this the High Middle Ages now!")
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Post by Tailoress »

*poking stick at all the off-shoot discussions, herding everyone back to the M. Bible stuff...* :)

Black Swan Designs wrote:So you're suggesting the white line represents a fur edging on the garment shown in David and Absalom??


On that particular one, it doesn't look much like the purfelle possibility at all. Some of the examples from Karen's selection of images show what might be meant to represent a purfelle around the hem, but again, just speculating.
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Post by Jehan de Pelham »

Great stuff, Gwen! Gives me a smile all the way over here in Iraq.

How's that look without a belt over it? Does it hang free like the illustration suggests?

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Post by Guy Dawkins »

Tasha McG wrote:
Black Swan Designs wrote:What do you think about the white edging seen on a lot of these- topstitching, trim or the artist highlighting an edge?

Gwen


My guess is that it's either the last thing you mention ("diapering" maybe? I'm not an illuminator though, so that might not be the correct term..?) for the purpose of enriching the folds of the fabric or it could be intended to represent the purfelle, which is the portion of a fur lining that shows around the edge and/or a bit further onto the outer layer.

-Tasha


I think it i simply an artistic way to highlight an edge. Notice that the shoes are also outlined in white. This is still a pretty common way to add depth and define an edge to an illustration. I draw your attention to the collar of the gent in the tweed and the pant cuffs of the fellow in the overcoat.
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Post by David Teague »

Ok... since you did bring up the art of illustration... I'm married to a professional illustrator and graphic designer (the last 30 years of her life)...

I had my wife Joanne look really carefully at the illustrations in question to see if she saw "fur"...

The closest thing she came up with was "Please show me work done in the same style that is know to be fur, as I really can't tell a thing by the style...

Does anybody know of a documented illustration of known fur in the Mac Bible??

Or is it all conjecture at this point?

Cheers,

David
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Post by Fire Stryker »

David Teague wrote:Ok... since you did bring up the art of illustration... I'm married to a professional illustrator and graphic designer (the last 30 years of her life)...

I had my wife Joanne look really carefully at the illustrations in question to see if she saw "fur"...

The closest thing she came up with was "Please show me work done in the same style that is know[n] to be fur, as I really can't tell a thing by the style...

Does anybody know of a documented illustration of known fur in the Mac Bible??

Or is it all conjecture at this point?

Cheers,

David


Having worked in a similar field, occasionally jaunting off to do something computer related. When I look at this image posted from above....specifically the white, you will note the grey "banding". This is usually indicitive of fur.

[img]http://www1.tip.nl/~t401243/mac/mac25vA.jpg[/img]

Of the ones that Karen posted, the guy of importance be it Lot, Saul, or other person of importance, you see the same lines...I'm thinking Vair. I've seen similar patterns in later century works, which are clearly fur.

Gwen, your work, as always, is TRES CHIC.

Jenn
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