When filing the slot for a sliding rivet, does the orientation of the slot depend upon the particular piece?
For instance, I patterned the Miles Stapleton spaulder and attempted a sliding rivet on the back of the first lame. I set the slot at a slight diagonal, which didn't make a very smoothe action.
Now, I have fashioned a full pauldron and I think that sliding rivets on the rear-side of each lame will greatly increase the forward flexibility.
My first question -
should the first lame - which covers the point of the shoulder - articulate without a sliding rivet?
My second question -
should the slots on the next lames run vertically or perhaps diagonally?
Thanks all,
Idëval
Sliding rivets
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Sasha
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I was sure I had written an essay on sliding rivets a while ago. Maybe I never submitted it to JT....
Okay. A couple of key points on sliding rivets (they are not as difficult as they seem). Firstly you need to drill the hole that is not going to turn into a slot (the OTHER lame, the one that sits above or below the slotted lame). Mark with a texta through this hole where the plate sits at "rest" (when you are standing quietly and gravity is doing its thing), then mark through the hole where the plate will end up at the extreme of its motion (As far articulated as you want it). Now take the plate away and rule a line between the two dots you have marked. This is now both the size and direction of your slot. Cut it out.
ALWAYS use a washer on your rivets and set with a rivet fork so that the joins are not always binding up.
(I normaly use a 16ga rivet fork for normal articulation and a 14 or 12ga rivet fork for sliding rivets....juyst so they have a little bit more play in them.)
If you only want a sliding articuculation on one side of your lame and a pivoting articulation on the other then you will need to drill the pivoting articulation point first and temporarily bolt it before drawing the line for your slot. If I am doing this then I usually mark the extremes of the line (as above) and then leave the texta in the hole and mark the actual cours of the line by articulating the plate off the bolt along between the two marked points. (can you tell I need coffee by the clarity of my explanations?)
Before all of the above, decide on which lame you want to have the hole and which to have the slot, it makes a difference to the appearence and to the performance as well.
It is possible to have slot on slot articulation (does that sound kinky to anyone else?), you mostly only need it if you are using very narrow lames. The process is pretty much as above, but then turn the assembled (temporarily) plate and turn it over and now mark through the slot until the hole is in the middle of a line. cut that slot and you have the extra sliding room. Make sure it does not allow the lames to gap when the slots are at either extreme of motion.
I am going to get that coffee now and then think about looking for that essay I mentioned.
Sasha
Okay. A couple of key points on sliding rivets (they are not as difficult as they seem). Firstly you need to drill the hole that is not going to turn into a slot (the OTHER lame, the one that sits above or below the slotted lame). Mark with a texta through this hole where the plate sits at "rest" (when you are standing quietly and gravity is doing its thing), then mark through the hole where the plate will end up at the extreme of its motion (As far articulated as you want it). Now take the plate away and rule a line between the two dots you have marked. This is now both the size and direction of your slot. Cut it out.
ALWAYS use a washer on your rivets and set with a rivet fork so that the joins are not always binding up.
(I normaly use a 16ga rivet fork for normal articulation and a 14 or 12ga rivet fork for sliding rivets....juyst so they have a little bit more play in them.)
If you only want a sliding articuculation on one side of your lame and a pivoting articulation on the other then you will need to drill the pivoting articulation point first and temporarily bolt it before drawing the line for your slot. If I am doing this then I usually mark the extremes of the line (as above) and then leave the texta in the hole and mark the actual cours of the line by articulating the plate off the bolt along between the two marked points. (can you tell I need coffee by the clarity of my explanations?)
Before all of the above, decide on which lame you want to have the hole and which to have the slot, it makes a difference to the appearence and to the performance as well.
It is possible to have slot on slot articulation (does that sound kinky to anyone else?), you mostly only need it if you are using very narrow lames. The process is pretty much as above, but then turn the assembled (temporarily) plate and turn it over and now mark through the slot until the hole is in the middle of a line. cut that slot and you have the extra sliding room. Make sure it does not allow the lames to gap when the slots are at either extreme of motion.
I am going to get that coffee now and then think about looking for that essay I mentioned.
Sasha
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Konstantin the Red
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