Corazinna Pattern
Corazinna Pattern
Alright,
I have my milanese harness mostly done. SOes anyone have a pattern (starting point) for a Corazzina like the one featured in the Met? I will modify the faulds so they work right but I need a wee bit of help with the wasp waisted plates.
BTW, see the thread labelled latest work...
[This message has been edited by grendel (edited 07-17-2002).]
I have my milanese harness mostly done. SOes anyone have a pattern (starting point) for a Corazzina like the one featured in the Met? I will modify the faulds so they work right but I need a wee bit of help with the wasp waisted plates.
BTW, see the thread labelled latest work...
[This message has been edited by grendel (edited 07-17-2002).]
While not a pattern, here are a couple of pictures which show the interior detail on my body harness:
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-interior.jpg
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-detail.jpg
Hope that this helps.
-Keith/Austin
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-interior.jpg
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-detail.jpg
Hope that this helps.
-Keith/Austin
The construction is suede over steel. The orginal in the Met is velvet rather than suede. I wanted something a bit more durable than velvet but retaining the look, thus the choice of suede.
I commissioned the construction of it approximately twenty years ago from Robert MacPherson. The key is that the waist plates should be fitted at your "natural" waist (just below the bottom of the rib cage), rather than the waist line of your pants.
The rivit spacing is ~1" (2.5 cm), so that should give you an idea of scaling to actual size.
-Keith/Austin.
I commissioned the construction of it approximately twenty years ago from Robert MacPherson. The key is that the waist plates should be fitted at your "natural" waist (just below the bottom of the rib cage), rather than the waist line of your pants.
The rivit spacing is ~1" (2.5 cm), so that should give you an idea of scaling to actual size.
-Keith/Austin.
As you point out, the Met armour has a fairly narrow leather strap for the shoulder support. Rober MacPherson and I discussed this at the time that I commissioned this body harness, and I opted for greater protection.
The shoulder straps are actually a sandwich of (outside to inside) suede, 1.5" by 0.5" steel plates and leather. This was done to provide additional protection for the shoulder area. As you can see from the images, I have also used these shoulder straps to mount the pauldrons.
-Keith/Austin.
The shoulder straps are actually a sandwich of (outside to inside) suede, 1.5" by 0.5" steel plates and leather. This was done to provide additional protection for the shoulder area. As you can see from the images, I have also used these shoulder straps to mount the pauldrons.
-Keith/Austin.
I've read the discussions about the Met piece. I tend to follow the belief that he used a couple of harness' and pieced that one together. I think he got allot of it, right but somehow the lower faulds look off to me. I plan on using a "hoop" type fauld instead.
Your harness is certainly beautiful. I too bought suede for this project, going to use it parti-colour. How has it held up over 20 years?
Now a very funny thing ocurred. I also bought Muttman's Corrazina in green suede to wear while I build mine.
Anyone want a nicely polished Milanese breast and back sized to fit someone slightly larger than I am? Pictures can be seen on here: http://www.armourarchive.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007720.html
Your harness is certainly beautiful. I too bought suede for this project, going to use it parti-colour. How has it held up over 20 years?
Now a very funny thing ocurred. I also bought Muttman's Corrazina in green suede to wear while I build mine.
Anyone want a nicely polished Milanese breast and back sized to fit someone slightly larger than I am? Pictures can be seen on here: http://www.armourarchive.org/ubb/Forum1/HTML/007720.html
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by grendel:
<B>How has it held up over 20 years?
</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks for the complements.
Most of the suede is original. I have replaced the suede on the following high wear points: Right and Left Fauld and the Right and Left Shoulders. I plan on completely stripping and recovering the armour sometime "soon". While I have the suede off, I also plan on repainting the steel.
Over the course of the years, I have experimented a bit with the suede "articulation" on the faulds. The original construction was a single piece of suede which covered both of the vertical fauld pieces. This worked for a while, but eventually the stresses of SCA combat resulted in the suede being torn over the high stress area where the fauld plates overlaped.
I first attempted to modify the articulation of the left fauld (on the right side of the image), by adding a thicker leather reinforcement on the back side of the armour. This worked, but has resulted in a fauld that does not move well, and dents easily.
Later, I modified the suede covering on the right fauld (on the left side of the image), to provide a "floating" articulation between the two fauld plates. This has successfully lowered the stresses on the suede as well as providing good movement of the fauld.
-Keith/Austin.
[This message has been edited by Chadwick (edited 07-18-2002).]
<B>How has it held up over 20 years?
</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Thanks for the complements.
Most of the suede is original. I have replaced the suede on the following high wear points: Right and Left Fauld and the Right and Left Shoulders. I plan on completely stripping and recovering the armour sometime "soon". While I have the suede off, I also plan on repainting the steel.
Over the course of the years, I have experimented a bit with the suede "articulation" on the faulds. The original construction was a single piece of suede which covered both of the vertical fauld pieces. This worked for a while, but eventually the stresses of SCA combat resulted in the suede being torn over the high stress area where the fauld plates overlaped.
I first attempted to modify the articulation of the left fauld (on the right side of the image), by adding a thicker leather reinforcement on the back side of the armour. This worked, but has resulted in a fauld that does not move well, and dents easily.
Later, I modified the suede covering on the right fauld (on the left side of the image), to provide a "floating" articulation between the two fauld plates. This has successfully lowered the stresses on the suede as well as providing good movement of the fauld.
-Keith/Austin.
[This message has been edited by Chadwick (edited 07-18-2002).]
- Aidan Cambel
- Archive Member
- Posts: 3572
- Joined: Thu Jan 04, 2001 2:01 am
- Location: Birmingham, AL , USA
http://www.varmouries.com/tran_06.html
Not a pattern, but a darn good repro..
My Knight made one from these pics and it looks quite spiffy!
in Service,
Aidan
Not a pattern, but a darn good repro..
My Knight made one from these pics and it looks quite spiffy!
in Service,
Aidan
Chadwick, do you have pics of the outside? Someone wearing it and front/back pics would be great.
------------------
--Edric de Aldebury--
edric@edricsrose.com
http://www.edricsrose.com
Flos est puellarum, quam diligio, et rosa rosarum, quam sepe video.
"My love is a flower among virgins, and a rose among roses"
------------------
--Edric de Aldebury--
edric@edricsrose.com
http://www.edricsrose.com
Flos est puellarum, quam diligio, et rosa rosarum, quam sepe video.
"My love is a flower among virgins, and a rose among roses"
-
Steve S.
- Archive Member
- Posts: 13327
- Joined: Thu Aug 10, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Huntsville, AL
- Contact:
I was going to ask the same thing - these are very educational photos - outside photos would be very helpful, too. I'm drawn to this kind of armour because I think it's well within the abilities of an average armour maker, though it is a very complicated armour.
I would love to learn how to tin plates. It would seem to me one would need a <u>huge</u> vat of molten tin to put these plates in. How do you melt such a large quantity of tin?
Steve
I would love to learn how to tin plates. It would seem to me one would need a <u>huge</u> vat of molten tin to put these plates in. How do you melt such a large quantity of tin?
Steve
As requested, here is a back view:
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-rear.jpg
and a front view:
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-front.jpg
-Keith/Austin.
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-rear.jpg
and a front view:
http://Eisner.Encompasserve.org/~chadwick/armour-front.jpg
-Keith/Austin.
-
master nim
- Archive Member
- Posts: 229
- Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2001 1:01 am
- Location: fort worth TX
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Effingham:
<B>Y'know, you might want to use stronger leather for those straps.
Effingham</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ya I was thinking the same thing. They look pretty stretched out. I would think some good veg tan would work better.
Thanks Chadwick! Looks great.
------------------
--Edric de Aldebury--
edric@edricsrose.com
http://www.edricsrose.com
Flos est puellarum, quam diligio, et rosa rosarum, quam sepe video.
"My love is a flower among virgins, and a rose among roses"
<B>Y'know, you might want to use stronger leather for those straps.

Effingham</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ya I was thinking the same thing. They look pretty stretched out. I would think some good veg tan would work better.
Thanks Chadwick! Looks great.
------------------
--Edric de Aldebury--
edric@edricsrose.com
http://www.edricsrose.com
Flos est puellarum, quam diligio, et rosa rosarum, quam sepe video.
"My love is a flower among virgins, and a rose among roses"
