Oh yeah new quote
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BloodRose
"Don't stare into the bright white light. Simply walk twords it."
okay my mom will let me build armor im gonna start with.....
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BloodRose
- Archive Member
- Posts: 214
- Joined: Fri Jul 12, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: North bend,Oregon, United states
- Contact:
okay my mom will let me build armor im gonna start with.....
Okay I'm gonna start with "chain"maille but what tools do I need? I was thinking about starting with a bracer then the left one and work my way from there in strips. Sound good?
Oh yeah new quote
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BloodRose
"Don't stare into the bright white light. Simply walk twords it."
Oh yeah new quote
------------------
BloodRose
"Don't stare into the bright white light. Simply walk twords it."
You can buy links or make them.
To make them you need 2mm galvinised fencing wire, a rod of how wide you want your links with a bend in the end to make a handle, something to mount it on, wire cutters and pliers. You drill a hole in the rod, put the end of the wire through it and wind the wire into a coil. you the cut the coil into your "links" and get making. It is possible to use a low tourque drill to wind them but this is not recomended (I'm not very brave).
I don't know who to buy them off in the US.
To make them you need 2mm galvinised fencing wire, a rod of how wide you want your links with a bend in the end to make a handle, something to mount it on, wire cutters and pliers. You drill a hole in the rod, put the end of the wire through it and wind the wire into a coil. you the cut the coil into your "links" and get making. It is possible to use a low tourque drill to wind them but this is not recomended (I'm not very brave).
I don't know who to buy them off in the US.
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pavlovsdog
- Archive Member
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Aug 29, 2002 1:01 am
- Location: Albuquerque, NM
I personally wrap them myself, because it's cheaper... It'll probably take me 400 feet to finish off my test coif. I'm working on the tail end of the coif itself and I've probably got a hundred feet left to do the "square" mantle. When I do the "real" one out of riveted rings, I'll have to buy them. Probably from Steve of Forth Armoury...
Brian
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Extorque removere.
(twist to remove)
Brian
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Extorque removere.
(twist to remove)
If you're not particular about the material: I prefer using 14ga electric fence wire (galvanized mild steel), and a 5/16 inch stock steel rod.
Build a crank with 2x4's and the rod.
Again, if you're not particular about the cut surface on each ring: I've found that the wire cutters in the fencing section of farm stores work very easily. They're like little bolt cutters: no strain on the hands to cut hundreds of links.
Build a crank with 2x4's and the rod.
Again, if you're not particular about the cut surface on each ring: I've found that the wire cutters in the fencing section of farm stores work very easily. They're like little bolt cutters: no strain on the hands to cut hundreds of links.
I started out w/ 16 gauge nickel silver and wrapped and cut it myself. I also have a modified pair of bolt cutters and 4 pairs of plyers. You can order links from decote wire. I think the link is here on the archive somewhere. I'd put it here, but I have it bookmarked at home, not at work. They also have links for sale there at a fairly reasonable price if you wanted to go that way.
-April
-edited to correct wire type
[This message has been edited by Aphreal (edited 10-17-2002).]
-April
-edited to correct wire type
[This message has been edited by Aphreal (edited 10-17-2002).]
um, Aphrael, um, it's not "nickel plated aluminum" that I know of. It's an alloy referred to as "Nickel Silver". I ordered it from here:
http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/wire/kwi.htm
Paul
(Oh come on, tell the truth. Your first attempt at mail was using 14 gague solid copper wire I salvaged from some scrap electrical wire )
http://www.rjleahy.com/Store/wire/kwi.htm
Paul
(Oh come on, tell the truth. Your first attempt at mail was using 14 gague solid copper wire I salvaged from some scrap electrical wire
)BASIC CHAINMAIL
By Lord Jasper Murtagh
Aka Roger Martin
Materials: Chainmail crank, wire various ga, heavy gloves, 2 pr of needle nose pliers (or equivalent), piano wire cutters or substitute (bolt cutter, aviation snips, end nippers, dremel tool with cutting blades, etc). Tape measure. Friends to help.
Chainmail can be broken into two major styles plus the oriental styles. The international pattern or 4 in 1. Another is 6 in 1. Some people have done 8 in 1 but I can’t document it. Note the x in 1 denotes how many links go on 1 link. The class will not cover the oriental styles.
Definitions my vocabulary.
Springs - rolled wire off the dowel rod. Looks like a door spring.
Links - the loose links just after cutting off of spring.
Close Link - link which the ends has been twisted together so the ends touch.
Open Link - link that has the ends has been twisted apart so other links can be fitted on them.
Fours - 4 closed links placed on an open link then the open link twisted shut.
Row - line of chainmail of closed links. Ex. Fours have 2 rows do not count the open link.
Line - each line of links. Ex. Fours have 3 lines. Line one is 2 closed links. Line two is the open link. Line three is 2 closed links.
String - 5 Fours woven together.
Patch - a section of mail, which are generally 5 strings woven together. Also is 10 closed links wide and long. A patch will contain 181 links.
Rectangle - a patch of mail which is not necessary the normal patch size. Ex 16 closed links wide by 20 closed links long.
Triangle - a section of mail which starts with two strings and expands out to a triangle shape.
Expansion/ idle Link - link which is used to expand or decrease the width of mail.
Seam - where mail comes together with weaves in opposite directions.
First choose whether you are going to build a coif, camail, atventail or shirt.
Measurements:
Coif needs 5 measurements. 1. Top of head to eyebrow. 2. Outside of eyebrow to eyebrow. 3. Eyebrow line to shoulder. 4. Neck to shoulder. 5. Under chin. Basically how tight you want it under your chin. Generally 1 ½ inches smaller than measurement 2.
Camail needs the circumference of the helm.
Camail and Aventail only needs attach to the bottom of helm to shoulder.
Shirt measurements should be taken with gambeson on. 1. Chest plus 4 inches. 2. Neck to shoulder. 3. Shoulder to location where you want shirt to end plus 4 to 6 inches. 4. Inner shoulder left to inner shoulder right. 5. Shoulder to armpit.
Directions:
1. Roll up at least 10 springs. You will need a glove on the guiding hand.
2. Stretch the spring. Clip the links from the spring.
3. Twist shut a couple of hundred links.
4. Twist opens a couple of hundred links.
5. Make Fours by taking 4 closed links placing on 1 open and twist open shut.
6. Make a few tens of Fours.
7. Take two Fours and open link. Place two closed links from both Fours placed on an open link and twist shut. This is string.
8. Make a few tens of strings.
9. Weave the strings together by taking an open link and connecting 2 close to 2 close.
10. Make a few patches.
11. Weave the patches together connecting them on the lengthwise section.
12. Adjust pattern with what you are making.
Coif. Can be made use triangles and rectangles. The top is made with 6 triangles (measurement 1). A big rectangle (measurement 3). The bottom is 4 rectangles and 4 triangles the length of measurement 4. Measurement 5 is used to close up the chin and get the width for the front rectangle.
Camail and Aventail. The bottom of a coif is a camail. The Aventail is just a rectangle of mail off the back of the helm. Both are woven onto a strap of belt leather, which is then riveted, to helm.
Shirts. Is basically a long rectangle turn into a tube. Then shoulder straps are added. Then the sleeves are added. You will have a seam in a shirt. Adding a line of links to straps can smooth a seam. I suggest you add the line to the back of the shirt. This will only cause a problem in the back of sleeves where the sleeve will connect to the shirt.
Expansion links can be added to the bottom of patches to increase the width of mail.
Tempering. Place the project in the broiler for 1/2 hr then quench in a pot of cold water repeat.
Sources of Wire. Hardware stores, Farmers Co-op's, Appliance repair stores (for copper wire which has been coated and never rusts.), Old houses, and where ever you can find it.
REMEMBER! LINK AND LEARN!
By Lord Jasper Murtagh
Aka Roger Martin
Materials: Chainmail crank, wire various ga, heavy gloves, 2 pr of needle nose pliers (or equivalent), piano wire cutters or substitute (bolt cutter, aviation snips, end nippers, dremel tool with cutting blades, etc). Tape measure. Friends to help.
Chainmail can be broken into two major styles plus the oriental styles. The international pattern or 4 in 1. Another is 6 in 1. Some people have done 8 in 1 but I can’t document it. Note the x in 1 denotes how many links go on 1 link. The class will not cover the oriental styles.
Definitions my vocabulary.
Springs - rolled wire off the dowel rod. Looks like a door spring.
Links - the loose links just after cutting off of spring.
Close Link - link which the ends has been twisted together so the ends touch.
Open Link - link that has the ends has been twisted apart so other links can be fitted on them.
Fours - 4 closed links placed on an open link then the open link twisted shut.
Row - line of chainmail of closed links. Ex. Fours have 2 rows do not count the open link.
Line - each line of links. Ex. Fours have 3 lines. Line one is 2 closed links. Line two is the open link. Line three is 2 closed links.
String - 5 Fours woven together.
Patch - a section of mail, which are generally 5 strings woven together. Also is 10 closed links wide and long. A patch will contain 181 links.
Rectangle - a patch of mail which is not necessary the normal patch size. Ex 16 closed links wide by 20 closed links long.
Triangle - a section of mail which starts with two strings and expands out to a triangle shape.
Expansion/ idle Link - link which is used to expand or decrease the width of mail.
Seam - where mail comes together with weaves in opposite directions.
First choose whether you are going to build a coif, camail, atventail or shirt.
Measurements:
Coif needs 5 measurements. 1. Top of head to eyebrow. 2. Outside of eyebrow to eyebrow. 3. Eyebrow line to shoulder. 4. Neck to shoulder. 5. Under chin. Basically how tight you want it under your chin. Generally 1 ½ inches smaller than measurement 2.
Camail needs the circumference of the helm.
Camail and Aventail only needs attach to the bottom of helm to shoulder.
Shirt measurements should be taken with gambeson on. 1. Chest plus 4 inches. 2. Neck to shoulder. 3. Shoulder to location where you want shirt to end plus 4 to 6 inches. 4. Inner shoulder left to inner shoulder right. 5. Shoulder to armpit.
Directions:
1. Roll up at least 10 springs. You will need a glove on the guiding hand.
2. Stretch the spring. Clip the links from the spring.
3. Twist shut a couple of hundred links.
4. Twist opens a couple of hundred links.
5. Make Fours by taking 4 closed links placing on 1 open and twist open shut.
6. Make a few tens of Fours.
7. Take two Fours and open link. Place two closed links from both Fours placed on an open link and twist shut. This is string.
8. Make a few tens of strings.
9. Weave the strings together by taking an open link and connecting 2 close to 2 close.
10. Make a few patches.
11. Weave the patches together connecting them on the lengthwise section.
12. Adjust pattern with what you are making.
Coif. Can be made use triangles and rectangles. The top is made with 6 triangles (measurement 1). A big rectangle (measurement 3). The bottom is 4 rectangles and 4 triangles the length of measurement 4. Measurement 5 is used to close up the chin and get the width for the front rectangle.
Camail and Aventail. The bottom of a coif is a camail. The Aventail is just a rectangle of mail off the back of the helm. Both are woven onto a strap of belt leather, which is then riveted, to helm.
Shirts. Is basically a long rectangle turn into a tube. Then shoulder straps are added. Then the sleeves are added. You will have a seam in a shirt. Adding a line of links to straps can smooth a seam. I suggest you add the line to the back of the shirt. This will only cause a problem in the back of sleeves where the sleeve will connect to the shirt.
Expansion links can be added to the bottom of patches to increase the width of mail.
Tempering. Place the project in the broiler for 1/2 hr then quench in a pot of cold water repeat.
Sources of Wire. Hardware stores, Farmers Co-op's, Appliance repair stores (for copper wire which has been coated and never rusts.), Old houses, and where ever you can find it.
REMEMBER! LINK AND LEARN!
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Prince Of Darkmoor
- Archive Member
- Posts: 4793
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Salinas, CA
Start here: www.mailartisans.org
Then hit the how-to section of www.dcwireworks.com
Then go to http://chainmaille.prohosting.com
Then get your materials and weave!
Then hit the how-to section of www.dcwireworks.com
Then go to http://chainmaille.prohosting.com
Then get your materials and weave!