SCA shield edging
SCA shield edging
Got my heater blank out of the press, patterned, cut out, sanded, and a layer of light canvas glued on. Next on is the aluminum edging and then the outer edging (I wanna do this before I try to balance/strap it), which is what I am undecided on.
Most of the sources I've read say to use either automotive heater hose (this is what one of the local squires is recommending), plain old garden hose, or rawhide. I kinda like the rawhide option since it would look more period-ish, but is it legal? Seems like you wouldn't get as much bulk as with the hose material, but then, I've never played much with rawhide.
Thanks!
Most of the sources I've read say to use either automotive heater hose (this is what one of the local squires is recommending), plain old garden hose, or rawhide. I kinda like the rawhide option since it would look more period-ish, but is it legal? Seems like you wouldn't get as much bulk as with the hose material, but then, I've never played much with rawhide.
Thanks!
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Jackoftrades
- New Member
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- Joined: Fri Nov 29, 2002 2:01 am
- Location: Stillwater,ok,USA
Rhys,
One thing you could have done is glue the
canvas on after putting the hose on, and then
put the canvas glued on to the hose. Mine has
the alum edging then leather strips then garden hose. Then my canvas is glued onto the shield and over the hose. Then painted. The leather strip helps the hose from getting cut up by the edging. This shield has lasted through 6 years of fighting at least once every week and a half. New shield is in the works, the old one is de-laminating.
Mark
One thing you could have done is glue the
canvas on after putting the hose on, and then
put the canvas glued on to the hose. Mine has
the alum edging then leather strips then garden hose. Then my canvas is glued onto the shield and over the hose. Then painted. The leather strip helps the hose from getting cut up by the edging. This shield has lasted through 6 years of fighting at least once every week and a half. New shield is in the works, the old one is de-laminating.
Mark

- Ld. David de Clermont
- Archive Member
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- Location: Indianapolis, IN USA
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In the Middle Kingdom, you don't have to have leather or anything else for that matter. You just have to make sure that your shield doesn't destroy your opponents weapon. My aluminum heater has car door edge molding on it. All I did was file the edge of the shield round and stuck it on without anything else. Now, it doesn't last long but for about $5 I can replace it. My next heater will be wood with aluminum edging (filed to remove sharp edges) and wrapped in leather. No heater hose.
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Ld. David de Clermont
Squire to Ivar Rhidri Eithr Drenger
Haus Kriegsturm
Barony of Sternfeld
Middle Kingdom
House Kriegsturm Home Page
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Ld. David de Clermont
Squire to Ivar Rhidri Eithr Drenger
Haus Kriegsturm
Barony of Sternfeld
Middle Kingdom
House Kriegsturm Home Page
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losthelm
- Archive Member
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make the edge around 3/4 of an inch or 18mm. wide with now hard corners and you should be all set. any plastic hose with a good flex should work. leather. rawhide metal deging for a counter I even saw one once with conduit put one the edge. roling the edge is also a viable alternative just make shure the back will not cut in to you when it gets steped on.
usulay the edging is straped on with heavey duty zip ties or laced on with cord. find somthing decent for cord. nylon close line wears out quick but any thing with core and mantal or natral matereal should work well.
usulay the edging is straped on with heavey duty zip ties or laced on with cord. find somthing decent for cord. nylon close line wears out quick but any thing with core and mantal or natral matereal should work well.
I used to use straight rawhide, but the marshalls gave me a little grief, saying it OUGHT to be padded. Switched to siloflex hose, which is absolutely weightless, strong, and looks like hell. Built a new shield a few weeks ago, and edged with the siloflex for bulk, then secured wet rawhide over it for authenticity. Held it all down with clenched nails, and am pretty happy with the end result.
~Wil
~Wil
One thing no-one mentioned was that some kingdoms have a different standard. If you don't have to have a certain edge thickness (3/4" wide) then go with the rawhide.
Meridies also allows door edging, so I am redoing my shields as we speak -all 12 of them!
(^_^)
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Hjalmar of Sognefjord
House Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Meridies.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
Meridies also allows door edging, so I am redoing my shields as we speak -all 12 of them!
(^_^)
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Hjalmar of Sognefjord
House Bearkiller
Barony of Grey Niche, Meridies.
"True nobility is not measured by being superior to another, but rather by becoming superior to oneself."
Sorry, shoulda mentioned Kingdom. I'm in Meridies. So the aluminum door edging would be fine on its own, or covered with hide?
As an aside, I've learned that applying said aluminum edging to a curved heater is...challenging. I think I'm going to need to cover it with something, at least for cosmetic purposes. }}:->
Lord Rhys ap Morgan,
Shire of Vulpine Reach,
Meridies
As an aside, I've learned that applying said aluminum edging to a curved heater is...challenging. I think I'm going to need to cover it with something, at least for cosmetic purposes. }}:->
Lord Rhys ap Morgan,
Shire of Vulpine Reach,
Meridies
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warclub_33
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