14th century splinted armour

[kersme]

From what i've read, splints are riveted to light leather, but all ive got is 10ounce, is that too thick? And would it be possible to harden the leather and get double the protection that way

[eric j woods]

What areas of the body do you wish to protect? Thigh armour out of 10 oz would be sufficient if it is hardened using any good technique (wax,glue, or water/heat) For vambraces mabey a little extra padding would help, spaulders would be fine in and of themselves as well, also making sure you harden them. Some times the metal splints start to bend, and it pulls and rips the rivets trough the leather, not to mention rust spots all over if not properly maintained. I did leather armour with steel inserts for my first vambraces, but switched to all hardened leather after a few monthes. It's lighter and more comfortable for sure. Thats just my opinion though, wait for House of the Wolf to reply, and then take his direction as gospel, he's the best. Hope this helps, and can probably suggest more when we know what areas you want protected.

[Kilkenny]

From what i've read, splints are riveted to light leather, but all ive got is 10ounce, is that too thick? And would it be possible to harden the leather and get double the protection that way

Guess it depends alot on what you're reading. Among modern SCA armourers, most do splints on lighter weight leather. It makes for an easily adjusted armour that is a bit more cost effective to produce than using a heavier grade leather.

My cuisses at present are hardened saddle skirting with stainless steel splints. That's 12 to 15 ounce leather, hardened and splinted. More than is absolutely needed, but it certainly works.

If you try to make splinted vambraces with 10 ounce leather you will have to work a bit on making the pattern fit.
For cuisses it should be straightforward - the difference is the severity of the curves.

Gavin

[Armoured Air Bear]

I really prefer to use 10-11 oz for my armour. that's just me. it forms very well hardens almost all the same. I have also made prototype armour with splints with good sucess. so yes I think with proper hardening 10-11 will work just fine. I would definetley use stainless or even better spring steel splints though.

hope this helps,

Aaron

[Benjamin de Hatfield]

Hate to jack a thread, but this seemed like a good place to put it.

Were the splints in splinted armor ever decorated? Meaning engraved, etched, embossed, or did they hever have any unusual shapes to them instead of being just a rectangular piece of metal?

Any pictures of that, or evidence?

-Ramius

[Armoured Air Bear]

Not all are just long rectangles. some are attached to the maille and have scalloped edges. as for etching/engraving, I think that I have seen some minor engraving in the ones mentioned above-I'll check on that though when I look at the pic again later.

Aaron

[Magnus The Black]

Another way to decorate splinted armor is the use of diffrent heraldic colours and ornate arming nails. Dags work also. Splinted armour had the splints on both the inside of the armour and the outside.

[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v95/Magnus1500/newmagnus.jpg[/img]