I was lucky enough to pick up a really nice used stainless helmet in excellent shape. being that is was used , the helmet's original polished surface is dulled by many little scratches and nicks. Nothing to really affect the integrity of the helmet and even the looks at further distance, but it could use a repolishing to bring it back to its full glory.
Question: Can this be done at home with tools available to a non armourer (e.g. an angle grinder provided with the correct attachments?, by hand with the right compounds?)
If not, what suggestions would you have as to a good resource for this? the local body shop?
Thanks!
Rowan of Needwood
Re-polishing a stainless helmet...
- Glaukos the Athenian
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Re-polishing a stainless helmet...
Glaukos the Athenian
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- Johann Lederer
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Hal did a tutorial (i believe) on using a die grinder with the surface prep pads (scotchbrite) to polish railroad spikes. I don't know if that is appropriate or not. I have a bench buffer and it works on my stuff with fine compound. I know one local guy has a triangular pad sander that he uses to take off tape and scratches on his helm with good result...
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- Sean Powell
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The easist thing for a non-profesional to do, without spending a lot of money, is to pick up a sheet of 600 or 800 grit wet/dry sand-paper and some WD-40. A single helm can be hand polished to the point where you can see your reflection well enough to brush your hair in under an hour... and that's including the comercial breaks for a fresh can of Mt Dew (aka magic armorer fuel). It's not going to be MIRROR shiney but actually very little on the market really is. Your friends will think it's mirror shiney until they hit you a few times.
Seriously, don't over-think it. 1/4 sheet of sandpaper, an old towel to keep WD-40 and grit off your lap and a few shop rags or paper-towels will do wonders. This used to be a pre-practice ritual of mine and is still a pre-demo ritual. It is easier then people make it to be.
Sean
Seriously, don't over-think it. 1/4 sheet of sandpaper, an old towel to keep WD-40 and grit off your lap and a few shop rags or paper-towels will do wonders. This used to be a pre-practice ritual of mine and is still a pre-demo ritual. It is easier then people make it to be.
Sean
- Oswyn_de_Wulferton
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If you really get to the point of 600/800 grit like Sean suggested, and still don't like it, you can use buffing compound by hand. PITA, takes forever, but it can be done. Tandy has the white stuff on sale right now.
Or, as I just discovered last night, HD has a mini buffing kit, with 3 wheels, compounds, and a mandrel for fitting into a drill for just under $10. So I am kicking myself that I hand-polished a helm with rouge (easily 5-10hrs into it).
Or, as I just discovered last night, HD has a mini buffing kit, with 3 wheels, compounds, and a mandrel for fitting into a drill for just under $10. So I am kicking myself that I hand-polished a helm with rouge (easily 5-10hrs into it).
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- Luca Sogliano
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$50 for a Dremel tool, and $10 for a larger polishing wheel than comes with the tool, and a brick of polishing compound. Or, you're welcome to borrow my Dremel.
I would still go with the 600/800 grit sandpaper first, however, since buffing scratches is, well, dumb. (I say from direct experience)
I would still go with the 600/800 grit sandpaper first, however, since buffing scratches is, well, dumb. (I say from direct experience)
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shaohu
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If you have an angel grinder already. If I were you, I'd youse the 600 then 800 by hand and wet. Then id get the cloth polishing weel and stainless steel polishing compound (you could just use the cheap junk too). Then polish it up real nice. It still won't be mirror polished though. Warrning though the angel grinder catches real easily on corners and rivets and will jump or jerk and destroy your pad. Also if you use the angel grinder "I" would remove the guard so it wouldn't scratch the metal. Also makk sure the disk you use doesnt let the screw and nut that attatched the pad touch the metal.....I found that some will. Thats my 2 cents...
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