Gambeson Questions

ushumgal · Post by **ushumgal** » Sat May 17, 2003 1:49 pm

Now that classes are over, I finally have time to make my first gambeson. I am using the instructions for a fully fitted gambeson by Inga the Unfettered (see http://www.lostviking.com/projects.htm ), though I plan to modify it to be knee-length and split front and back instead of at the sides. Here are my questions:

What thickness of cotton batting should I use (I will be wearing this under lamellar after T-Bob's style)? Would a single layer throughout, and maybe doubled at the sides and kidneys work best?

What sort of fabric should I use for the lining? It doesn't have to be period (I'm mainly interested in just getting out on the field right now)? Regular soft cotton or something like that?

What sort of fabric is best for the shell? Inga suggests denim for heavy use, or a cotton/poly blend with a tight knit to be cooler. Observations?

Any other tips would be helpful, too, since the most I've ever done on a sewing machine so far was a pair of baggy pants, and they were very ugly...

Thanks in advance,
Jamie
LU2.DUB.SAR

Otto von Aachen · Post by **Otto von Aachen** » Sat May 17, 2003 5:15 pm

My gambeson has a single layer of cotton batting , and both the outer shell and lining are linen. I would highly suggest you stay away from modern fabrics, especially anything that is a polyester blend. Polyester doesnt breathe worth a damn, and your going to end up being very hot if you use any in your gambeson. That goes for the cotton batting too-make sure its 100% cotton. You can get linen online for between $4-6/yd, but if you need something cheaper go with 100% cotton fabric.

Sixtus_Goetz · Post by **Sixtus_Goetz** » Sat May 17, 2003 6:40 pm

Greetings,

I will attest to the natural materials. My aketon is 4 layers of the thin cotton batting between a cotton twill shell. This is under a lammelar vest using 20ga ss lamellae from GAA armories. Found it to be very nice. 2-3 layers should suite you fine.

Saranac Goetz

ushumgal · Post by **ushumgal** » Sun May 18, 2003 5:05 pm

Thanks, Otto and Saranac. I guess I will probably go with cotton, then (unless I can find some really cheap linen). How thick, roughly, should the batting be all together - about 1/4 inch? And do you use several layers of cloth for the shell and just one for the lining? Is it the same kind of cloth for both?

Thanks again!
Jamie
LU2.DUB.SAR

Otto von Aachen · Post by **Otto von Aachen** » Sun May 18, 2003 5:59 pm

The outer layer of my gambeson is a single layer of 6 oz linen, and the lining is the same. Between them is quilted a single layer of cotton batting. I just checked what i had leftover for batting, and it was originally a 60" x 108" roll, with each layer being 1/8" thick at the most. The only place i used more then a single layer was in the arms around the elbows, mainly to provide some extra cushion under my elbow cops. Depending on what period your doing and what armor your wearing over it, you may want to increase the amount of padding. I personally portray a German Knight circa 1375, so my gambeson is really nothing more then a lightly padded coathardie that serves as a platform to hang my plate armor on. If your doing a commoner persona, or an earlier period, then you will want your gambeson to be thicker, as it plays a more vital role in your defense.

Oh, one other note-if your going to quilt/pad the sleeves, make sure you use a pattern that includes an under arm gore or something similar, otherwise you will find that the padding binds your upper arms/shoulders range of motion when you have your arm raised to shoulder level or above.

If your going to use cotton, you might want to use a heavier cotton fabric for the outer shell and a lighter cotton for the lining- i know that i intend to use an 8-10 oz linen for the outer shell on the next one i make. Also, try to either use solid colors, or try and find patterns that are similar to medieval syles. Many people wont care(or even notice) if the gambeson is linen or cotton, but if you use some bright floral pattern or otherwise obviously modern print its going to be noticed immediately. Also keep in mind that this garment is going to get VERY dirty, and pick colors with that in mind. I know all the paintings show pretty white/tan gambesons, but i can tell you from experience that it will only be white the first time its worn. I ended up dying mine sort of a black/grey color after three uses, and it looks MUCH better, especially after a days fighting.