I have realized that my lamellar will not be finished in time for the next big event (Warriors & Warlords, between Jaravellir and Nordskogen). I should be able to get the torso area done, but I doubt I will be able to finish the lower part (waist to mid-thigh) in time. So, I am thinking of adding some temporary pteruges of a cheap material. Anyonw have any suggestions? Leather would be the best, I'd imagine, but it would be too expensive for something temporary. I have tons of 1/8" ABS plastic, but I suspect that that is too rigid. Back when I did some armoring in Jaravellir, they had a whole bunch of conveyor belt material that would have been great - it had the consistency of thick leather, and best of all, it was free! Anyone know where I could get something like that?
Thanks in advance!
Kalba
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Barkalba bar Shalamsin
m.k.a. Jamie Szudy
LU2.DUB.SAR
Pteruges - cheap material suggestions?
Vinyl baseboards in schools, government buldings, offices... You can probably buy a box new at some flooring supplier.
Cane be found at home Depot, ask for cove base. $1.97 EACH
They are usually black or brown, come in 4" X 4' long sections. Can be cut with an exacto knife or scissors. Tough as heck also since they are made to get the sh*t kicked out of them. I used them to go with a roman muscled breast/back plate I had.
Until I looked in a mirror that is...reminded me a little too much of something Xena would wear.
So I cut them up into small heater shaped scales and attached them to a canvas back to make the scale aventail shown on the cover of the Osprey german army book.
[This message has been edited by Rainald (edited 07-02-2003).]
[This message has been edited by Rainald (edited 07-02-2003).]
Cane be found at home Depot, ask for cove base. $1.97 EACH
They are usually black or brown, come in 4" X 4' long sections. Can be cut with an exacto knife or scissors. Tough as heck also since they are made to get the sh*t kicked out of them. I used them to go with a roman muscled breast/back plate I had.
Until I looked in a mirror that is...reminded me a little too much of something Xena would wear.
So I cut them up into small heater shaped scales and attached them to a canvas back to make the scale aventail shown on the cover of the Osprey german army book.[This message has been edited by Rainald (edited 07-02-2003).]
[This message has been edited by Rainald (edited 07-02-2003).]
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Templar Bob/De Tyre
- Archive Member
- Posts: 5514
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Indianapolis, IN (USA)
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ushumgal:
<B>I have realized that my lamellar will not be finished in time for the next big event (Warriors & Warlords, between Jaravellir and Nordskogen). I should be able to get the torso area done, but I doubt I will be able to finish the lower part (waist to mid-thigh) in time. So, I am thinking of adding some temporary pteruges of a cheap material. Anyonw have any suggestions? Leather would be the best, I'd imagine, but it would be too expensive for something temporary. I have tons of 1/8" ABS plastic, but I suspect that that is too rigid. Back when I did some armoring in Jaravellir, they had a whole bunch of conveyor belt material that would have been great - it had the consistency of thick leather, and best of all, it was free! Anyone know where I could get something like that?
Thanks in advance!
Kalba
</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Kalba:
What do you have finished of the klibanion so far? Perhaps I can make suggestions of how to speed up the process...
<B>I have realized that my lamellar will not be finished in time for the next big event (Warriors & Warlords, between Jaravellir and Nordskogen). I should be able to get the torso area done, but I doubt I will be able to finish the lower part (waist to mid-thigh) in time. So, I am thinking of adding some temporary pteruges of a cheap material. Anyonw have any suggestions? Leather would be the best, I'd imagine, but it would be too expensive for something temporary. I have tons of 1/8" ABS plastic, but I suspect that that is too rigid. Back when I did some armoring in Jaravellir, they had a whole bunch of conveyor belt material that would have been great - it had the consistency of thick leather, and best of all, it was free! Anyone know where I could get something like that?
Thanks in advance!
Kalba
</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Kalba:
What do you have finished of the klibanion so far? Perhaps I can make suggestions of how to speed up the process...
I had the lamellae cut to the proper sizes by the sheet metal company ($20 saved me many many hours!). I have been slightly rounding the corners (probably more than I need to do) and rounding the edges a bit to remove burrs and prevent chafing. I am probably seriously overdoing it, since it take a good 2 hours to do a stack of 50 lamellae on the belt sander. I have between 150-200 (about enough for a vest) done to this point, and which now need to be punched and laced. I know the sanding is taking me longer than it should - how rounded have you made the edges of your lamellae? I generally end up with no flat surface on the edges at all - they are completely rounded. I don't take much off the corners, but I am still taking more off than, for example, Bogei Timur's armour, which you posted photos of a while back. Some of the lamellae were not cut very well (the guy stacked the strips 3-high to save time, which left the top and bottom edges of some lamellae pretty thin) and require extra sanding.
Am I overdoing it?
Jamie
LU2.DUB.SAR
Am I overdoing it?
Jamie
LU2.DUB.SAR
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Patin Windward
- Archive Member
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- Location: Kelowna BC
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Templar Bob/De Tyre
- Archive Member
- Posts: 5514
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Indianapolis, IN (USA)
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by ushumgal:
<B>I had the lamellae cut to the proper sizes by the sheet metal company ($20 saved me many many hours!). I have been slightly rounding the corners (probably more than I need to do) and rounding the edges a bit to remove burrs and prevent chafing. I am probably seriously overdoing it, since it take a good 2 hours to do a stack of 50 lamellae on the belt sander. I have between 150-200 (about enough for a vest) done to this point, and which now need to be punched and laced. I know the sanding is taking me longer than it should - how rounded have you made the edges of your lamellae? I generally end up with no flat surface on the edges at all - they are completely rounded. I don't take much off the corners, but I am still taking more off than, for example, Bogei Timur's armour, which you posted photos of a while back. Some of the lamellae were not cut very well (the guy stacked the strips 3-high to save time, which left the top and bottom edges of some lamellae pretty thin) and require extra sanding.
Am I overdoing it?
Jamie
LU2.DUB.SAR</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Kalba:
No, you're not overdoing it. However, I prefer an inexpensive metal file. That's what I used on almost every lamellar suit in aluminum I've ever built. I used sanders, grinders and files--I got more control and smoother results by filing the edges and corners than ever I did by using a sander or grinder...your mileage may vary, though.
For holes, invest in a Roper-Whitney Number 5 punch, and pay the extra money for the bench clamp. Pick up a cheap small planter table from Goodwill or Big Lots or some such place, and mark your holes. Once marked, punch your plates, using the hollow top of the punch die as a sight. Punching your lamellae will go a lot quicker if you do....and you can take the small table with you to events, and work on lamellar while watching the combat. It also makes you into an instant armouring demo.
Contact me when it's time to lace the lamellae. My e-mail is in Profiles.
Hope this helps,
<B>I had the lamellae cut to the proper sizes by the sheet metal company ($20 saved me many many hours!). I have been slightly rounding the corners (probably more than I need to do) and rounding the edges a bit to remove burrs and prevent chafing. I am probably seriously overdoing it, since it take a good 2 hours to do a stack of 50 lamellae on the belt sander. I have between 150-200 (about enough for a vest) done to this point, and which now need to be punched and laced. I know the sanding is taking me longer than it should - how rounded have you made the edges of your lamellae? I generally end up with no flat surface on the edges at all - they are completely rounded. I don't take much off the corners, but I am still taking more off than, for example, Bogei Timur's armour, which you posted photos of a while back. Some of the lamellae were not cut very well (the guy stacked the strips 3-high to save time, which left the top and bottom edges of some lamellae pretty thin) and require extra sanding.
Am I overdoing it?
Jamie
LU2.DUB.SAR</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Kalba:
No, you're not overdoing it. However, I prefer an inexpensive metal file. That's what I used on almost every lamellar suit in aluminum I've ever built. I used sanders, grinders and files--I got more control and smoother results by filing the edges and corners than ever I did by using a sander or grinder...your mileage may vary, though.
For holes, invest in a Roper-Whitney Number 5 punch, and pay the extra money for the bench clamp. Pick up a cheap small planter table from Goodwill or Big Lots or some such place, and mark your holes. Once marked, punch your plates, using the hollow top of the punch die as a sight. Punching your lamellae will go a lot quicker if you do....and you can take the small table with you to events, and work on lamellar while watching the combat. It also makes you into an instant armouring demo.
Contact me when it's time to lace the lamellae. My e-mail is in Profiles.
Hope this helps,
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Templar Bob/De Tyre
- Archive Member
- Posts: 5514
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Indianapolis, IN (USA)
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR><font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Templar Bob/De Tyre:
<B>Kalba:
How big around are you at the belly?
</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
47" at the chest, 44" at the belly. I have enough cleaned up for 4 complete bands (I had been estimating 50 per band), with a few left over. I just have to punch the holes. I have the HF knockoff of the Whitney #5 and I started doing some test punching last night. I found that with the 9/32 size (I think - it is the size you recommend in your article), I have to be *very* careful about alignment, because there is so little metal left between the hole and the edge of the lamella, and this makes it take a bit longer. I did try one size smaller hole, but that was just not big enough to get two strands of maxicord through. I also cannot move the holes towards the center of the lamellae, because then the lamellae will interfere with the lacing that attaches to the band above. So, looks like I need to be patient and do it right. Anyway, I will give the file a try - I hadn't even thought of that.
Thanks for the advice!
Kalba
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Barkalba bar Shalamsin
m.k.a. Jamie Szudy
LU2.DUB.SAR
<B>Kalba:
How big around are you at the belly?
</B></font><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
47" at the chest, 44" at the belly. I have enough cleaned up for 4 complete bands (I had been estimating 50 per band), with a few left over. I just have to punch the holes. I have the HF knockoff of the Whitney #5 and I started doing some test punching last night. I found that with the 9/32 size (I think - it is the size you recommend in your article), I have to be *very* careful about alignment, because there is so little metal left between the hole and the edge of the lamella, and this makes it take a bit longer. I did try one size smaller hole, but that was just not big enough to get two strands of maxicord through. I also cannot move the holes towards the center of the lamellae, because then the lamellae will interfere with the lacing that attaches to the band above. So, looks like I need to be patient and do it right. Anyway, I will give the file a try - I hadn't even thought of that.
Thanks for the advice!
Kalba
------------------
-----------
Barkalba bar Shalamsin
m.k.a. Jamie Szudy
LU2.DUB.SAR
-
Templar Bob/De Tyre
- Archive Member
- Posts: 5514
- Joined: Wed Aug 23, 2000 1:01 am
- Location: Indianapolis, IN (USA)
Kalba:
My estimation is that you will need (for a "horseman" skirt split front and back):
<B>
Giving you a total of <u>625 lamellae</u>, give or take 10 or so. But cheer up...my klibanion took nearly 1000 lamellae.
Also, it's very important to make a lamellae template. This will make it easier to have your lamellae with a consistant hole alignment. Take an evening to use an ultra fine Sharpie® marker to pre-mark your lamellae. Then punch them.
You'll feel like you've accomplished more when all you have to do is smooth edges and lace.
My estimation is that you will need (for a "horseman" skirt split front and back):
<B>
- 264 lamellae for the torso.
- 60 lamellae for the sleeves.
- 51 lamellae for the waist.
- 250 lamellae for the skirts.
Giving you a total of <u>625 lamellae</u>, give or take 10 or so. But cheer up...my klibanion took nearly 1000 lamellae.
Also, it's very important to make a lamellae template. This will make it easier to have your lamellae with a consistant hole alignment. Take an evening to use an ultra fine Sharpie® marker to pre-mark your lamellae. Then punch them.
You'll feel like you've accomplished more when all you have to do is smooth edges and lace.
Another idea for cheap material for petruges: use that flexible banding used for garden borders. It's some kind of thick, flexible plastic or rubber and comes in a brown color that is somewhat rough textured. It comes in a long roll.
I designed the retail packaging for this stuff, which is why I know about it. I have never used it but it may have possibilities. You might want to go down to your local hardware/home & garden store and give it a look if you get stuck for a solution.
Tim
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Tim Finkas, Sculptor & Proprietor<A HREF="http://finkas.home.netcom.com/HSB/HSBMAIN.html" TARGET=_blank>
Historical Stud & Buckle Company</A>
I designed the retail packaging for this stuff, which is why I know about it. I have never used it but it may have possibilities. You might want to go down to your local hardware/home & garden store and give it a look if you get stuck for a solution.
Tim
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Tim Finkas, Sculptor & Proprietor<A HREF="http://finkas.home.netcom.com/HSB/HSBMAIN.html" TARGET=_blank>
Historical Stud & Buckle Company</A>
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Guest
Cheap leather straps...
Visit all the Vets near you...
When they uthanize (sp?) dogs, they usually don't give the collar back, and they usually go into a big cardboard box.
Alot of Vets will just give the collars to you if you ask...
Sick, but free leather straps...
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Matthew Broadway
(SCA: Dante de la Vallée)
Visit all the Vets near you...
When they uthanize (sp?) dogs, they usually don't give the collar back, and they usually go into a big cardboard box.
Alot of Vets will just give the collars to you if you ask...
Sick, but free leather straps...
------------------
Matthew Broadway
(SCA: Dante de la Vallée)